Click.......Vroom. Basic Starting Question

[Talksthetorque]

Didn't know whether this would be an ///M Specific question or even if it's different parts between the different models, but have posted here as I think it's a general question really.

Sometimes when my dearest GF tries to start the car it just clicks once.
If it doesn't start first time then the second time (EVERY TIME) it starts.
According to the GF it seems to do it more when the Sat Nav is plugged in :dunno:
Alternator sends voltage to 14V
Standing Voltage ( after a run) starts at 12.4 but drops to 12.1 after couple of hours.

My Question is:
in what order do I start replacing stuff?

a) Battery
b) Starter Solenoid (can you order separately) (or is there a relay I haven't found)
c) Starter Motor
d) GF :fuelfire:

 

[Adamski]

Does it do it when you're in the car? If not, replace GF first :lol:


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[OlivierH]

Does it do it when you're in the car? If not, replace GF first :lol:


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[Talksthetorque]

Does it do it when you're in the car? If not, replace GF first :lol:


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It has happened to me once or twice, and GF replacement isn't an option, as there are no replacements that are of such a high quality. Only the best for the Z

 

[sk93]

starter solenoid. 100%.

can you replace it separately? don't believe you can order one separately, but the starter's not that expensive to start with.

exact same happened to me!

 

[HelenZ4]

[/qoute] It has happened to me once or twice, and GF replacement isn't an option, as there are no replacements that are of such a high quality. Only the best for the Z [/quote]


Absolutely fabulous reply, good on ye, make sure the GF reads it about an hour before going to bed

Solenoid, possibly low battery charge?

 

[andicole0]

A good battery should hold 12.5 volts, dropping to 12.1 in a short time is not good. However batteries should really be tested under some sort of load so I would get it looked at by a friendly garage - one who hasn't too much interest in just selling a battery!

Andi.

 

[Smartbear]

A good battery should hold 12.5 volts, dropping to 12.1 in a short time is not good. However batteries should really be tested under some sort of load so I would get it looked at by a friendly garage - one who hasn't too much interest in just selling a battery!

Andi.

^^this^^ a healthy battery shouldn't drop as low as 12.1v that soon after a run-it's either past it's best & needs replacing or something is causing a drain.
How old is the battery? I've just changed mine because it was sounding sluggish to spin over, my car is an 06 and it was the original battery.
Regards

 

[Talksthetorque]

It's a BMW branded so possibly original.
Starter on order off of eBay, battery to be sourced next week. For the hassle of definitely sorting it and not getting the 'it's stopped working altogether' phone call when I'm working at the other end of the country, I think belt and braces is the appropriate approach.

 

[Talksthetorque]

Ok, I hate it when people don't update their problem threads with the eventual solution, makes the search when you have a problem so frustrating.

I ordered the starter and the battery and they were both there by the time I got back home after working away all week.
As I have to disconnect the battery to do the starter motor, I thought I'd do them both at the same time, rather than one at a time to see which one it was.
But I'd ordered the wrong battery ( check by sending your reg number to the eBay supplier if you're unsure)
and I didn't have the correct socket to sort the starter.
New battery arrived and was fitted, and it started perfectly for the first three occasions, until I tried to restart after removing a ClioSport off my rear bumner with the generous application of some right foot
Click.
Click.
Started ok again after it cooled down so, went round a mate's better equipped garage.

***IMPORTANT INFO FOR REMOVING STARTER MOTOR****

On the ///M ( I don't know if it is the same on the other engines) the starter is held on by a Star headed bolt. These are designated E** where xx is the size and the size of socket needed was - E14. You will also need 10mm and 13mm sockets and spanners.

Also had to run a tap through the threads of the new motor (they weren't the best) and down the original bolts (corrosion)

Just a case of removing as much of the inlet plastics as necessary (I managed with the manifold still on) and getting the cables and pipes out of the way.

Two E14 bolts on the top of the gearbox - the ones that hold the v-shaped bracket on are also holding the starter on.
Electrical connections on the starter motor.

And in the words of the Great Mr Haynes.....

"Refitting is a reversal of the dismantling procedure"

Now I think it was the starter, but with the battery losing charge fairly quickly, maybe one was draining the other?
The battery was less than three years old looking at the date stamp, so the next purchase I think is a trickle charger.

 

[ben g]

I done the same as you. Replaced battery and starter (although a day apart). For the cost of both, it's well worth doing for peace of mind.

Think I spent £65 on a bosch S4 battery and the same on a Lucas starter motor from Eurocarparts.