Clear light and Angel Eye Conversion - The Project and Story

Ah, I see. That would be a PITA. Fair do's....

Dont think I posted this previously but I used mirror tint film to cover the amber bulbs... job done and totally de-gingered :thumbsup:
 
Adamski said:
Ah, I see. That would be a PITA. Fair do's....

Dont think I posted this previously but I used mirror tint film to cover the amber bulbs... job done and totally de-gingered :thumbsup:

I assume you mean you tinted the amber capsules the clear bulbs shine through rather than the bulbs themselves?! :o
 
Sorry, that was a little vague. Yep, I tinted the amber capsules, and have clear bulbs underneath.

The silver mirror tint simply covers the amber. However, as soon as the indicator bulb comes on, the amber shines through the mirror tint and comes through orange from the front of the car :thumbsup:
 
Text book. :thumbsup:

It was annoying I couldn't do the same but that'll teach me to make assumptions about anything you buy from a stranger. At least a solution was found in the end.
 
Been thinking about doing this for ages, though finding it difficult to find the time & trust myself despite reading through this thread at length.

Would anyone from Kent / SE London who's done it before be willing to do this for me... for a price, inclusive of angle eyes to my Xenons?
 
I wonder if anyone can help,

Upon chopping open my headlights last night, I realised that I am missing a few vital parts to complete the clear conversion, can anyone help with the following?

- 2x Orange glass domes (I have once set from a clear headlight, but my left headlight is missing these)

- 2x silvered metal housing which holds the clear indicator lens in place. (Again, because the amber headlights don't need the orange glass domes, they don't have the metal brackets in place to hold the glass domes)

- 1x projector lens (from a right hand drive headlight) - Billygilly kindly donated one to me, but it turned out to be for left hand drive.

For anyone doing this conversion, it's worth knowing that if you do what I've done and just source the clear indicator lenses on their own, you won't have the orange glass domes because these are only for the clear facelift lights.

If anyone can help i'd be very grateful, otherwise i'll be buying some test tubes, cutting them to size and then painting orange!

Andrew.
 
Hi Andrew, you could try the cj10jeeper method of tinting the bulbs orange? If you want to fully de-ginger the lights you could simply run some silver tinting film along the inside of the clear indicator to mask the orange bulbs.

Could you take the silver mirror housing from your existing orange indicators, assuming you use the above method for the bulbs?

Hope this helps :thumbsup:


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Adamski said:
Hi Andrew, you could try the cj10jeeper method of tinting the bulbs orange? If you want to fully de-ginger the lights you could simply run some silver tinting film along the inside of the clear indicator to mask the orange bulbs.

Could you take the silver mirror housing from your existing orange indicators, assuming you use the above method for the bulbs?

Hope this helps :thumbsup:


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Tinting the bulbs is definitely an option, however i'd still prefer to put the bulbs inside a silvered glass dome to prevent any orange coming through - I know if I can see any orange after the conversion it will bug me! (slight OCD there!)

For the mirrored housing, i only need this if i go down the glass dome route, otherwise i can use the one from my pre-facelift lights. I've also realised that the brackets on the amber hockey sticks are in a different place to the brackets on the clear hockey sticks - not a big problem but 2 of the brackets on the clear hockey stick dont line up with the brackets on the pre-facelift housing for the hockey sticks - strange!

I'm almost there, will be glad to get these onto my car eventually - unfortunately I wont have time before the zfest though :(
 
:( - that's the trickiest thing about these projects, the unforeseen delays due to missing parts or broken bits. I had a headlight retainer bolt shear off when I did mine, had to magic (and brute force ;) ) to fix it :headbang:

Hope you get it sorted - you could always use silver tint on the inner side of the clear indicator lense to keep the orange away. I nearly went down that route :thumbsup:


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Andrew, you're going through the exact problems I did! I ended up having to use my original pre-facelift indicator housings and accept that a couple of the lugs from the clear indicators don't line up. However, it's still very securely fastened on the lugs available.

As for the bulbs - I strongly recommend you avoid using orange painted bulbs which, as you may have found out, is all the BAY9S is available in. I tried painting my own and also bought a couple of 'aftermarket' sets from ebay and all starting smoking and peeling after a few minutes with the hazzard switch left on. :roll: You could even see subtle changes in the shades of amber on each individual indicator as the tint started to burn! In the end, I wrapped the original clear BAY9S bulbs in Kapton tape which I'm lucky enough to have access to. Not ideal but this stuff can handle 300C and also happens to comes in a perfect amber colour.

By the way, I still have the left overs from my cut and shut so may have a pair of domes and a projector lense you can have. No idea if it's LH or RH so you'll have to tell me what to look for!
 
Adamski said:
:( - that's the trickiest thing about these projects, the unforeseen delays due to missing parts or broken bits. I had a headlight retainer bolt shear off when I did mine, had to magic (and brute force ;) ) to fix it :headbang:

Hope you get it sorted - you could always use silver tint on the inner side of the clear indicator lense to keep the orange away. I nearly went down that route :thumbsup:


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Tricky, but all part of the fun!

thanks for your advice Adam :thumbsup:
 
Bradders75 said:
Andrew, you're going through the exact problems I did! I ended up having to use my original pre-facelift indicator housings and accept that a couple of the lugs from the clear indicators don't line up. However, it's still very securely fastened on the lugs available.

As for the bulbs - I strongly recommend you avoid using orange painted bulbs which, as you may have found out, is all the BAY9S is available in. I tried painting my own and also bought a couple of 'aftermarket' sets from ebay and all starting smoking and peeling after a few minutes with the hazzard switch left on. :roll: You could even see subtle changes in the shades of amber on each individual indicator as the tint started to burn! In the end, I wrapped the original clear BAY9S bulbs in Kapton tape which I'm lucky enough to have access to. Not ideal but this stuff can handle 300C and also happens to comes in a perfect amber colour.

By the way, I still have the left overs from my cut and shut so may have a pair of domes and a projector lense you can have. No idea if it's LH or RH so you'll have to tell me what to look for!

Thanks for the advice about the orange paint, the last thing i want is my bulbs burning or turning black! where did you get the Kapton tape from?

That would be great if you have a pair of domes - do you mind checking for me?

For the projector lens, I'm at work at the mo but will upload a photo later on to show you what i'm looking for - If you have this too then you're a life saver!

Andrew.
 
andrewr said:
Bradders75 said:
Andrew, you're going through the exact problems I did! I ended up having to use my original pre-facelift indicator housings and accept that a couple of the lugs from the clear indicators don't line up. However, it's still very securely fastened on the lugs available.

As for the bulbs - I strongly recommend you avoid using orange painted bulbs which, as you may have found out, is all the BAY9S is available in. I tried painting my own and also bought a couple of 'aftermarket' sets from ebay and all starting smoking and peeling after a few minutes with the hazzard switch left on. :roll: You could even see subtle changes in the shades of amber on each individual indicator as the tint started to burn! In the end, I wrapped the original clear BAY9S bulbs in Kapton tape which I'm lucky enough to have access to. Not ideal but this stuff can handle 300C and also happens to comes in a perfect amber colour.

By the way, I still have the left overs from my cut and shut so may have a pair of domes and a projector lense you can have. No idea if it's LH or RH so you'll have to tell me what to look for!

Thanks for the advice about the orange paint, the last thing i want is my bulbs burning or turning black! where did you get the Kapton tape from?

That would be great if you have a pair of domes - do you mind checking for me?

For the projector lens, I'm at work at the mo but will upload a photo later on to show you what i'm looking for - If you have this too then you're a life saver!

Andrew.

I got the Kapton tape from work but if you do a search online, it's readily available. Don't hold me responsible if anything goes wrong though - I only used it as a last resort!

I'll have a root through my box of bits later and let you know what I have. You're more than welcome to what you need if you just cover my postage. :thumbsup:
 
andrewr said:
Bradders75 said:
Andrew, you're going through the exact problems I did! I ended up having to use my original pre-facelift indicator housings and accept that a couple of the lugs from the clear indicators don't line up. However, it's still very securely fastened on the lugs available.

As for the bulbs - I strongly recommend you avoid using orange painted bulbs which, as you may have found out, is all the BAY9S is available in. I tried painting my own and also bought a couple of 'aftermarket' sets from ebay and all starting smoking and peeling after a few minutes with the hazzard switch left on. :roll: You could even see subtle changes in the shades of amber on each individual indicator as the tint started to burn! In the end, I wrapped the original clear BAY9S bulbs in Kapton tape which I'm lucky enough to have access to. Not ideal but this stuff can handle 300C and also happens to comes in a perfect amber colour.

By the way, I still have the left overs from my cut and shut so may have a pair of domes and a projector lense you can have. No idea if it's LH or RH so you'll have to tell me what to look for!

Thanks for the advice about the orange paint, the last thing i want is my bulbs burning or turning black! where did you get the Kapton tape from?

That would be great if you have a pair of domes - do you mind checking for me?

For the projector lens, I'm at work at the mo but will upload a photo later on to show you what i'm looking for - If you have this too then you're a life saver!

Andrew.

I got the Kapton tape from work but if you do a search online, it's readily available. Don't hold me responsible if anything goes wrong though - I only used it as a last resort!

I'll have a root through my box of bits later and let you know what I have. You're more than welcome to have what you need if you just cover my postage. :thumbsup:
 
Bradders75 said:
I got the Kapton tape from work but if you do a search online, it's readily available. Don't hold me responsible if anything goes wrong though - I only used it as a last resort!

I'll have a root through my box of bits later and let you know what I have. You're more than welcome to have what you need if you just cover my postage. :thumbsup:

Fantastic - Thanks :thumbsup: So it's not only me that has a box of bits!!

The projector lens looks like this (this is one from a hologen, but i need xenon, I believe they're slightly different)

halogencutoff.jpg



Andrew.
 
Bad_Pritt, they dont do Xenon... hence the need for this thread.

Also, the above lights loose the OEM look, which is important for some of us
 
I see, can't argue with that :)
The work in this thread is remarkable... But I am not sure whether I really want to cut open my headlights... Two left hands! :wink:
 
I'm the same. Not really a DIY type, and not used to doing this kind of project.

Have to say, its not too difficult. It is time consuming and requires lots of patience. Despite having all the tools and parts, took me over 48 hours in total from start to finish. That said, 24 of those hours was waiting for the glue and sealant to cure.


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What are exactly the tools and type of glue/sealant that you need? Is a TEC7 silicone good for example? And with what kind of tool do you cut them open?
 
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