Clear light and Angel Eye Conversion - The Project and Story

I'm finally getting round to cutting open the spare headlights I have been storing in the loft. I've already cut open 1 set I now need to decide which Angel eyes to installed

Its been a couple of years since i did my last set (LED SMD) and the latest ones seemed to have improved in terms of size and brightness

Running the old set of LED angels
ysfw.jpg

I think i will install one set with the traditional near white LED angels. However I have a black inner set of headlights which may look good with yellow/orange LED angels. I see plenty of new (OEM) BMW lights running this colour, so I guess its legal in the UK?

20170503_124652.jpg
 
Are you not just thinking of ones run off halogen bulbs that look yellow? If they're used as sidelights then then can only show a steady white light to the front. RVLR are available online: http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/contents/made
 
I'm looking to install yellow/orange angels the same colour as on OEM passive BMW angels

From what i understand this colour is ok? its red which is not allowed in headlights?

E90-06.jpg
 
Lol - when I was a lad and did this mod CFL in white was the tech limit. Now we debate the led colour - gotta love progress

I won't even mention the touch screen control I now have over interior lighting colours, intensity and gearbox mode colour changes :)
 
ranski said:
I'm looking to install yellow/orange angels the same colour as on OEM passive BMW angels

From what i understand this colour is ok? its red which is not allowed in headlights?

E90-06.jpg

That just looks like the difference between halogen white and LED white. The halos you posed above look amber to me, same colour as indicators.
IMHO amber would not be compliant and therefore fail MOT. Yellow is allowed in a head lamp that can only display yellow though, e.g. If the entire lamp was tinted.
 
http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/schedule/2/made

Schedule 2 Part 1, 7.  Colour:
White or, if incorporated in a headlamp which is capable of emitting only a yellow light, yellow.

I'm obviously assuming you're using them as sidelights and that the colour of the rings you posted above on the battery are LED white and amber/orange similar to an indicator, rather than the halogen white vs LED white.
I have seen amber ones that have been visible from the front on some BMWs that then flow to the side as sidemarkers for the US, the only reason I believe these are legal is because the vehicle is type approved which means it must be accepted. Just as OE HIDs cannot be refused.

And from the MOT testing manual (https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/m4s01000101.htm):
1.1
Front and Rear Position lamps and Registration Plate Lamps
Reason for Rejection
e. shows a light other than red to the rear and white to the front (or yellow if a front position lamp is incorporated in a yellow headlamp)

Yellow there to me means selective yellow or similar, not amber specified for indicators.
 
If you can find colour temperatures for the LED rings you're looking at I'd expect 2000 K to be amber/orange, 3000 K to be a warm white, 4000 K to be a crisper LED white.
 
cj10jeeper said:
Lol - when I was a lad and did this mod CFL in white was the tech limit. Now we debate the led colour - gotta love progress

I won't even mention the touch screen control I now have over interior lighting colours, intensity and gearbox mode colour changes :)

It does seem nuts that even today BMW is up to its old tricks with orange indicators in headlights etc. Brand new low spec/trim minis come with orange indicators as standard! Apparently its a £60 option to go clear all round, granted a bit cheaper than a zed used to (still does) cost but still its taking the piss really. At least you get them for free on a Cooper, Cooper S and JCW, how generous of BMW! :rofl:
 
I am thinking of opening up my headlights to add Angel Lights and clean out what appears to be glue or clear coat. I believe they are sealed with a substance referred to as Butyl Permaseal which doesn't soften with heat and came across this database of cars with permaseal (Z4 not in list, but other BMW models are mentioned)

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/the-hidplanet-university/informative-articles/46667-headlight-sealant-database

Maybe I haven't searched well enough but, while I can see lots of finished mods, I haven't seen any pictures of the cuts made into the units and the actual seals cut or broke open.

I was thinking the hot knife method seems to be the cleanest way of getting them open but then came across this stuff. Not being a chemist I wonder if it would be able to work into the seam/join and not damage the plastic lenses or housing.

https://www.wholesaleglasscompany.co.uk/acatalog/Silicone-Eater-SE-550.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6MHdBRCtARIsAEigMxGaYfKz8nQsJNnQNGdepsHzuh6OMtjve8XJQqrD5FF0wbE4QPXwd44aAjl_EALw_wcB#SID=185
Size
500ml £13.75 (£16.50 Inc. VAT at 20%)
1 litre £22.75 (£27.30 Inc. VAT at 20%)

Description
Ritec silicone eater dissolves cured and uncured sealants safely leaving a wide range of surfaces silicone free. Also removes water proofing agents (penetrants) and butyl sealants.

For use on glass and it's framework, U-PVC, metals and wood. Also very efficient at cleaning industrial work surfaces and equipment.

Refer to downloads tab for the product handling safety information.

By popular demand we now have a new 1 litre can available.!

Application
1. Thoroughly clean and dry area where silicone is to be removed. Contact with water on application will neutralise the silicone eater!

2. Remove excess/build-up of silicone using triumph scraper or similar.

3. Apply silicone eater to the dry surface and agitate using a 3M white pad or similar.

4. Allow dwelling on the surface for 1 or 2 minutes. The speed of removal will depend on the thickness of the silicone or butyl sealant left on the surface.

5. Thoroughly rinse area with fresh water that will rinse off residues and neutralise the surface.

6. Application procedure to be repeated if necessary for thick and stubborn deposits.

Safety Sheet
http://www.wholesaleglasscompany.co.uk/acatalog/SDSSE550DualEngR6.pdf
 

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IMHO you ha e zero chance of dissolving the sealer. Even if the solvent you have works it will have to work around a series on channels so will simply not penetrate and if by chance you do get some in then it will entrer and mark/ destroy the lights inner
I’d do as I and many have since and cut them open
 
As above.... cut them open. It's pretty much the best way to go on these lights. I detailed my headlight mod on this forum too some time ago, and opted to cut them open
 
Yep failing any experience of that liquid I will go via the cutting/melting route.

Q. Black spray for the interio, Matt or Gloss? Any feedback?
 
z4too4 said:
Yep failing any experience of that liquid I will go via the cutting/melting route.

Q. Black spray for the interio, Matt or Gloss? Any feedback?

I did mine gloss black.

Use a reciprosaw if you have one. The dremel (which would likely melt) route is long and painful!!

Have a nosey at my guide too here: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=100058
 
IAmOrion said:
z4too4 said:
Yep failing any experience of that liquid I will go via the cutting/melting route.

Q. Black spray for the interio, Matt or Gloss? Any feedback?

I did mine gloss black.

Use a reciprosaw if you have one. The dremel (which would likely melt) route is long and painful!!

Have a nosey at my guide too here: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=100058

Black Gloss thanks!
As to cutting, wouldn't the hot knife soldering iron tip work well as shown in this video?
https://youtu.be/JoX6y1wyyCQ
 
z4too4 said:
Black Gloss thanks!
As to cutting, wouldn't the hot knife soldering iron tip work well as shown in this video?
https://youtu.be/JoX6y1wyyCQ

If you ask me, that's an awful, not to mention somewhat toxic way of doing it. Bad for the iron, bad for the fumes and IMO just bad altogether.

Do it properly - use a reciprocating saw.
 
IAmOrion said:
z4too4 said:
Black Gloss thanks!
As to cutting, wouldn't the hot knife soldering iron tip work well as shown in this video?
https://youtu.be/JoX6y1wyyCQ

If you ask me, that's an awful, not to mention somewhat toxic way of doing it. Bad for the iron, bad for the fumes and IMO just bad altogether.

Do it properly - use a reciprocating saw.
Mmm ... Thanks, I will consider the saw and other potential uses for it. And as to the iron, surely it is only the tip being wrecked and if done outside with a mask the fumes should be no worse than a London street. And an iron is an effective way to repair polypropylene. Anyhow I'll think about the saw, I do have some household boxing in projects on the go :thumbsup:
 
z4too4 said:
Mmm ... Thanks, I will consider the saw and other potential uses for it. And as to the iron, surely it is only the tip being wrecked and if done outside with a mask the fumes should be no worse than a London street. And an iron is an effective way to repair polypropylene. Anyhow I'll think about the saw, I do have some household boxing in projects on the go :thumbsup:

Well, yes, that's all true but if you ask me it's bit of a bodge-it-and-scarper method. I mean, it's like opening a McDonalds with your home kitchen equipment - sure it'll work, but it's not really the best way to go about things lol

I've used "iron" welding countless times - I do a lot of 3D Printing so have plastic-melted joins, clips, seams and all sorts.... what I've not ever done however is cut open 2 head light units with my soldering iron! Would you use an iPad to crack a nut?? :rofl:
 
Brill!!, this is what I was after, based of this original post, a fully descriptive and diagrammed pictured write-up / how-to / guide of required cutting / wiring / parts for Angel Eyes / Halo Rings mod for a Z4 E85 / E86 (verbose to help google search)
https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724153
 
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