Chip Fillers
- Thread starter ZedM
- Start date
Usa
I know what's in the kit, I was asking if YOU mix them, not if they say toZ4M-2006 said:
If you're applying them separately then it really must take you ages to do a few chips, and I don't think you could realistically even fix road rash. I think it's only a rip off if you can get the same thing cheaper, and the closest to that would be mixing your base and clear to try and do the touch up in one step.I used the chipex road rash style fix on the skirts of my last jag and it was amazingly easy, wipe the panel down with IPA (or the blending solution), use a bit of cloth to cover the whole panel with paint, bit of blending solution for a quick wipe, then polished with a small pad on the DA. Total time taken about half an hour and the skirts went from looking battered from 10 feet, to looking perfect stood next to the car. That's something you can't do with your cheaper kit, and why I think it's worth spending the extra for this kind of product over a standard base & clear touch up kit.
You must work for chipex.... :roll:
£40 for 50ml of colour and 75ml of thinners... some gloves and paint chip sticks.. :thumbsdown:
Carry on... I have tried chipex on a couple of cars,and yes it works.... Only as good as the £8.99 though...
Bumper and skirt rash is cheap enough to have repaired properly by a smart repair main....I got charged £55 for full bottom half of bumper on my fathers car..
£40 for 50ml of colour and 75ml of thinners... some gloves and paint chip sticks.. :thumbsdown:
Carry on... I have tried chipex on a couple of cars,and yes it works.... Only as good as the £8.99 though...
Bumper and skirt rash is cheap enough to have repaired properly by a smart repair main....I got charged £55 for full bottom half of bumper on my fathers car..
This is how bad the road rash is that I'm trying to fix. I'll be likely going for the £65 Dr ColourChip kit in a last gasp effort to save it before I cave into going for a full front end respray.
I haven't yet been through all the example videos for Chipex, will do now though. The fact that they had a video showing interlagos blue with Dr ColourChip was peace of mind for me.
Being pedantic and extra careful, I'll have to try and understand why Chipex is half the price too. You get what you pay for and all that?
Being pedantic and extra careful, I'll have to try and understand why Chipex is half the price too. You get what you pay for and all that?
Ah man, Chipex putting up YouTube videos at 360p ffs. How are you supposed to make a judgement on how well it's worked when the results are masked behind a grainy pixelated video 
I'll keep looking, cheers for the pointer.
I'll keep looking, cheers for the pointer.
So the trade off appears to be, with Chipex you get far less blending solution (2.5oz as opposed to 4oz) so the Dr ColourChip kit can cover more of an area. Which is what I need. I have extreme road rash across the bonnet and both wings, even back up to the rear arches. However Chipex provide some polish which I assume isn't necessary for the filling process, any polish should be usable.
It's never straightforward is it!
F*ck it, I've ordered the Chipex kit! It lacks the squeegee thingy that the other kit has, but I assume you can formulate your own and the Chipex kit can still be used in that fashion.
It's never straightforward is it!
F*ck it, I've ordered the Chipex kit! It lacks the squeegee thingy that the other kit has, but I assume you can formulate your own and the Chipex kit can still be used in that fashion.
That'd make me the worst salesman in the world wouldn't it, seeing as I've said in this thread that I don't really like the way you're supposed to use the kit, but just think the paint on it's own is good? Does everyone who disagrees wit you have some ulterior motive? :?Z4M-2006 said:
If you have the time, then maybe you can get the same results using the 2 stage solution and having patience. I enjoy doing things with my cars, but value my time far too much to cheap out and go for the inferior (IMO) option which is harder to use and takes longer. I'd much rather have the right tool for the job, and for doing chip repairs, I think the Chipex or Dr Colorchip paints are far superior as you're filling the chip, however deep, with paint which will polish up to a good finish on it's own, without having to try and get clear in to the same chip as well.
I'm not sure where you found your smart repairer to work for that much, but quotes I've had in the past for tiny repairs from them have been much more expensive than that, then there's the issue of not knowing how good they are, where the blend will be or if it will last. One of my previous cars had a smart repair on the bumper when I bought it which was invisible at the time, over a couple of years it gradually started changing colour in that area and ended up being obvious from a distance that it'd been done. If I'm going down the route of having large areas of panels painted, I'd rather take it to a proper body shop where I trust their work, and there'll at least be no differences in the same panel.
Anyway, this thread is about chip fillers or touch up, not having panels sprayed.
RenoRaines
Member
Here's an example of how I corrected paint damage. Previous owner did this with a key supposedly. I decided to give it a try. I ordered a kit from USA but paid too much money. Not for the kit itself but with import duties, tax etc. it was quite expensive. I found out in the end that I could get paint thinner and filler at my local shop or paint shop.
So this is the first photo of chip being gently sanded with 2000 grit paper. Just to level it.
Next I used filler and leave it to dry for a few hours. Afterwards I used paint thinner to remove excess of filler.
Next step is critical. You'll need patience for this one. Slowly applying touch up paint. Layer after layer. You can lay down paint around the chip. It'll be wiped away with thinner. I used toothpick and brush supplied with the kit. Brush was number 0. Laying down crystals (if you have metallic or pearl paint) won't be the same as factory sprayed. But going at least 3 layers will give you paint depth. That way after you polish the chip you'll get matching colors. Well at least close as possible.
First I used paint thinner to remove majority of excess paint. Next I used 2000 grit sanding paper to level it down. After that was polishing time. I did it with hand. Many times. After polishing you will probably notice that you should apply some more paint. So I used IPA to wipe the area and add more layers of paint. The end result was OK. You can still notice a dot. That's lifted paint from key damage. I would need to sand it down more. But if I compare before and after I think there's no need. You can hardy spot it if you're not standing close and if you don't know where to look. No need to remove even more clear coat for that tiny dot.
Next it was the bonnet and fenders. It took me somewhere around 3 weeks to finish it. I could still go on with the same chips slowly adding a couple layers of paint. I took care of most visible ones. And as I stated in some of the posts. I wouldn't go with filler again. Chip should really go all the way to the metal if I would be to use it. Otherwise I would be just applying touch up. And I would go with BMW's touch up next time. That is if you still have BMW's original paint. Resprayed cars can have different shade that original. Same goes with all paints especially red. If fades through the years.
After I finished my tedious detailing I lightly hand-polished my Z, wrapped it in Black Hole and used Collonite wax to seal it. And I tell you, the most difference does the wax.
edit: Yes I know. The badge. It is ordered
So this is the first photo of chip being gently sanded with 2000 grit paper. Just to level it.
Next I used filler and leave it to dry for a few hours. Afterwards I used paint thinner to remove excess of filler.
Next step is critical. You'll need patience for this one. Slowly applying touch up paint. Layer after layer. You can lay down paint around the chip. It'll be wiped away with thinner. I used toothpick and brush supplied with the kit. Brush was number 0. Laying down crystals (if you have metallic or pearl paint) won't be the same as factory sprayed. But going at least 3 layers will give you paint depth. That way after you polish the chip you'll get matching colors. Well at least close as possible.
First I used paint thinner to remove majority of excess paint. Next I used 2000 grit sanding paper to level it down. After that was polishing time. I did it with hand. Many times. After polishing you will probably notice that you should apply some more paint. So I used IPA to wipe the area and add more layers of paint. The end result was OK. You can still notice a dot. That's lifted paint from key damage. I would need to sand it down more. But if I compare before and after I think there's no need. You can hardy spot it if you're not standing close and if you don't know where to look. No need to remove even more clear coat for that tiny dot.
Next it was the bonnet and fenders. It took me somewhere around 3 weeks to finish it. I could still go on with the same chips slowly adding a couple layers of paint. I took care of most visible ones. And as I stated in some of the posts. I wouldn't go with filler again. Chip should really go all the way to the metal if I would be to use it. Otherwise I would be just applying touch up. And I would go with BMW's touch up next time. That is if you still have BMW's original paint. Resprayed cars can have different shade that original. Same goes with all paints especially red. If fades through the years.
After I finished my tedious detailing I lightly hand-polished my Z, wrapped it in Black Hole and used Collonite wax to seal it. And I tell you, the most difference does the wax.
edit: Yes I know. The badge. It is ordered
This has been a very interesting thread! (I started it). I've ordered the Chipex Road Rash kit for my Sterling Grey 2003 Z4 and it's just been delivered. I'll try and have a go at a couple of the biggest chips over the next few days and then give my feedback. I've never used anything like this before, it's always been a quick dab with the base coat from a Halfords 3 Pack kit. If I can use it satisfactorily - then anybody can! Watch this space. 
I received mine today, used it today, sorry m8 but it's absolute gash. It doesn't work.ZedM said:This has been a very interesting thread! (I started it). I've ordered the Chipex Road Rash kit for my Sterling Grey 2003 Z4 and it's just been delivered. I'll try and have a go at a couple of the biggest chips over the next few days and then give my feedback. I've never used anything like this before, it's always been a quick dab with the base coat from a Halfords 3 Pack kit. If I can use it satisfactorily - then anybody can! Watch this space.
My chips are very small and fine, not very deep but very visible. The step 2 blending solution just wipes the paint out of the chip and you're left smearing swirls into your nice paintwork. Perhaps if your chips are deep it might be of some use but for me it was £40 wasted.
You need to leave it to dry for longer, and be REALLY gentle with the blending solution, takes practice but you can get good results. The paint needs to be dry all way through before you try and use the blending solution, build it up in layers too if it's deep. As I said before though, I've got my best results using just the paint and wet sanding. I think your attack with the scratch x will have left whatever swirls you might be seeing tooncrossy1980 said:I received mine today, used it today, sorry m8 but it's absolute gash. It doesn't work.ZedM said:This has been a very interesting thread! (I started it). I've ordered the Chipex Road Rash kit for my Sterling Grey 2003 Z4 and it's just been delivered. I'll try and have a go at a couple of the biggest chips over the next few days and then give my feedback. I've never used anything like this before, it's always been a quick dab with the base coat from a Halfords 3 Pack kit. If I can use it satisfactorily - then anybody can! Watch this space.
My chips are very small and fine, not very deep but very visible. The step 2 blending solution just wipes the paint out of the chip and you're left smearing swirls into your nice paintwork. Perhaps if your chips are deep it might be of some use but for me it was £40 wasted.
I put on a really light coating, built up 3 layers, it was touch dry within 10 seconds but left it for about 10 minutes... no paint blobs, this was thumb smearing. I was as gentle as I could possibly have been with the blending solution but the chips are so shallow that the cloth pulled the paint out as I was wiping away the excess. I tried multiple attempts over 3 hours leaving it longer each time but it just wasn't having it.
Thanks for the heads up. I might try some wet flatting or consider a denibber (or both)! But I will take photos and tell it how it is. Fingers crossed.ncrossy1980 said:I received mine today, used it today, sorry m8 but it's absolute gash. It doesn't work.ZedM said:This has been a very interesting thread! (I started it). I've ordered the Chipex Road Rash kit for my Sterling Grey 2003 Z4 and it's just been delivered. I'll try and have a go at a couple of the biggest chips over the next few days and then give my feedback. I've never used anything like this before, it's always been a quick dab with the base coat from a Halfords 3 Pack kit. If I can use it satisfactorily - then anybody can! Watch this space.
My chips are very small and fine, not very deep but very visible. The step 2 blending solution just wipes the paint out of the chip and you're left smearing swirls into your nice paintwork. Perhaps if your chips are deep it might be of some use but for me it was £40 wasted.
Well don't write it off yet, I struggled to start with but have managed to do the road rash fix without any issues after a some practice. Also, make sure you're using enough blending solution, when I started I wasn't using enough which meant to get all the excess I had to rub the area too much, it should be literally the weight of the cloth across the surface. If that doesn't work then maybe it's time to try wet sanding? Maybe practice on something else firstncrossy1980 said:
Before adding the paint have you made sure the chip area is free of polish and wax?
If its not the new paint has nothing to really grab on to and will lift out easier.
Also are you using the small sponge along with the blue cloth to remove the excess paint? If you are just using your finger with the cloth you might not just be skimming over the top of the surface but dragging it out with your finger.
I bought this kit a few weeks ago and have only tried it once and think it will be quite good with a bit of time and practice. Its definately covered up a few of the white chip marks that were showing.
If its not the new paint has nothing to really grab on to and will lift out easier.
Also are you using the small sponge along with the blue cloth to remove the excess paint? If you are just using your finger with the cloth you might not just be skimming over the top of the surface but dragging it out with your finger.
I bought this kit a few weeks ago and have only tried it once and think it will be quite good with a bit of time and practice. Its definately covered up a few of the white chip marks that were showing.