Changing TPS- any resetting/computer fiddling needed?

beanie

beanie

Active member
 Bournemouth/Turin
Providing I can get my hands on some pliers that don't bend when squeezed, I'm going to swap the TPS under the inlet today.

Can I just disconnect the battery -ve, swap the sensors then reconnect battery and drive away or will I need to have it coded, reset etc?

I'd hate to do it and then find the car is undriveable as it would be a bit of a nightmare trying to get it out from where its parked :o
 
What a pig of a job, and it's still not done! :lol:

Those throttle body clips are a swine and took a real heave to release. They're off now but that isn't the issue I'm facing. There is an oil return that plugs into the bottom of the airbox that doesn't want to move for love nor money-any idea how best to remove it? From what I've read it just pulls out but I really can't see how that is possible without breaking the clips. The other option is to remove it from the sump but again, it just doesn't want to budge :x

If I can get that thing out then I've still got the issue of actually removing the well-stuck hoses and airbox away from the tb's.
 
Search for the "hesitation" thread in the ///M-specific forum, I think there might be a how-to or at least some tips. It's certainly been discussed before...
 
Thanks, there were a couple of hints I'd missed in those threads despite having read them a few times previously. :headbang:

Managed to remove the oil drain from the airbox rather than by the dipstick tube as it seemed a bit too stubborn. I warmed it up with a heat gun slightly then gave it a twist from underneath whilst pushing the tabs from inside. As for the TPS recalibrating, I couldnt find anything definitive about this and assumed it may need coding or resetting but having started the car all seems well. Looking forward to driving it now so fingers crossed this has done the trick :driving:

For anyone else that decides to give it a go I wouldn't recommend needle nose pliers for the tb clips. They're useful for removing a couple of the clips but for most of them I found some normal, shorter necked pliers worked much better for me thanks to a wider jaw and less flex.
 
I've also done this job (see avatar :wink: ) and executed the 'resetting' procedure a couple of times but although the hesitation issue has improved it is still not perfect. I have seen a thread about additional action required to get it perfect, it involves recalibration with the OBD interface so not an easy DIY job if you don't have the tools/software. I cannot seem to find the thread anymore :(

I noticed that the top TPS had 'calibration lacquer' on the screws, did you also see that?
 
Ahh yes! i found that view to be quite a satisfying one! Yours looks very clean too-i must have spent more time cleaning than i did actual fixing, incredible how the hours just disappear!

So far i'd have to agree with you about it not being perfect. It's undoubtedly better but its not quite as crisp as it was after i'd had bmw check a few things a little while ago. However, as I only changed the actuator TPS perhaps a further improvement will be had by doing the other? I also found a couple of my coils/sparks had grubby contacts so whilst theres no obvious misfire, perhaps its time to do those next.

I saw the paint blobs too and despite there appearing to not being any significant movement or adjustment in the position of the tps perhaps this cofirms some further setting up is required. My brother had mentioned the need to recalibrate the tps once it had been removed from a jenvey/dta setup but i'd hoped the fancy BMW ecu was able to recalibrate itself from other known positions.

Let me know how you get on with it, if i find anything out i'll post it up too.
 
They do need calibrating (or at least the one on the end of the throttle bar did) - whilst it worked it was pointed out to me and taken care of during my inspection 2 service by the specialist. Runs awesome now and great pickup.


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Thanks for that Adam, good to have some confirmation on this. :thumbsup:

Looks like a trip to the dealer will be in order. :thumbsdown:
 
I admit that when I changed them I thought the black paint on the screws were just for Q/C checks - oops! If you slacken the screws I'm told there is a small range of rotational adjustment which you set up with a computer plugged in.


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I take it calibration is different to just clearing the adaption values in the software. I am considering changing out TPS on mine as per my broke down thread :)
 
Adam D said:
I admit that when I changed them I thought the black paint on the screws were just for Q/C checks - oops! If you slacken the screws I'm told there is a small range of rotational adjustment which you set up with a computer plugged in.
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News to me!!!
 
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