Changing Lower Control Arms

TheDan

Active member
 Warwick, UK
Hi all,

I am currently in the process of changing my lower control arms on the Z4 and both ball joints will not come out!

What methods have you guys tried for getting a properly stuck ball joint out?
 
I encountered a few issues when I did mine

Outer ones I used the scissors type- which worked well until I trapped some of the metal washer in the knuckle! But in principle as long as you tighten bit by bit, tapping as you go it should pop ok

Inners I used the tuning fork splitter and they quickly released
 
Thanks for the advice guys.

I have bought and used one of the scissor type tools for the outer ball joint and it now came off with relative ease (made a hell of a bang as it released). I have a standard fork (hit with a hammer type) for the inboard ball joint and it just wont go very far on before going no further. I have even tried hammering it from the engine bay using my breaker bar...!

Tomorrow I reckon I'll try some fire... :fuelfire:

Probably just going to pay someone to do the other side providing its not too expensive.
 
Have you undone the lollipop bushing from the subframe?

I found you could then get leverage on the back joint if the tuning fork didn’t work

On an e30 I also managed to get one off that way by using a bar and hammer from above- but that was last resorts
 
I have a scissor type ball joint tool but couldn't get it on.

I tried a fork tool but it put up a fight.

In the end I think adjusted the angle so I could give it a proper whack and it came off easily.

SRExpNo.jpg
 
Yep, got it off now and put the new ones on.

However, I now have a new problem. Because of where the inboard ball joint is, I can't get anything more than a spanner on it. I have tightened it up as far as it will go (RFT + some swearing) but there seems to be a small gap around the edge of the nut still. Is this tightened properly?

Do you guys think it needs to be tightened some more? If so, I'll pop to Halfords to get a universal joint adapter so I can use some extensions and tighten it from above.

I would take a picture, but I can't really manage to wangle my arm into the right place.
 
I found that as you have done, doing it up from below with a spanner to finger tight, I then used a combination of extension bars and universal joints got it torqued up from above

One side was easier and more accessible than the other but principle worked
 
TheDan said:
However, I now have a new problem. Because of where the inboard ball joint is, I can't get anything more than a spanner on it. I have tightened it up as far as it will go (RFT + some swearing) but there seems to be a small gap around the edge of the nut still. Is this tightened properly?

Do you guys think it needs to be tightened some more? If so, I'll p
TheDan said:
Yep, got it off now and put the new ones on.

However, I now have a new problem. Because of where the inboard ball joint is, I can't get anything more than a spanner on it. I have tightened it up as far as it will go (RFT + some swearing) but there seems to be a small gap around the edge of the nut still. Is this tightened properly?

Do you guys think it needs to be tightened some more? If so, I'll pop to Halfords to get a universal joint adapter so I can use some extensions and tighten it from above.

I would take a picture, but I can't really manage to wangle my arm into the right place.
Passenger side you can do from above with a UJ

CCWU2bk.jpg

But the drivers side I couldn't - I took the undertray off and used a spanner.
 
Thanks again for the advice guys!

I managed to get the UJ and extensions on the passenger side but not the driver side as Jakg said. On the passenger side I tightened it up with a torque wrench and I am pleased to say it is fully seated now. On the driver side I took off the undertray and just about got my torque wrench on the nut (damn engine mount!) and torqued it up to spec.

Managed to get a decent enough photo of why it felt like it hadn't seated properly:
IMG_20201126_133954.jpg
 
Yeah - can echo what everyone has said with the challenge of both those bolts!

I found for the drivers side that i needed to jack beneath the ball joint to prevent spinning and to be happy i'd achieved the required torque! Pig of a job that side!
 
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