Central locking not working - possible fix

[RX826]

This happened to me today on my '04 Z4. Only had the car a short while, I know that the history was that the previous owner passed away so the car was stationery for a while.

Had been out for a sunny drive today, parked up in a pub for an hour with the roof still down and locked car. Got in the car for the drive home about an hour later and central locking didnt work. The remote would lock the car and unlock the boot, but first the passenger side started playing up (wouldnt unlock) then the drivers too. Old fashioned key in the lock worked, but only for the driver, passenger still stuck. This resulted in my missus having to get in the drivers side and rather unglamorously hoik herself over the central console. Not good in a short summer dress!

Anyway, came home, tried a few things. Got it working for a while, then it stuck again. As I said locking the car and the boot release worked a treat. Trawled the forum and saw a few scare stories about how much BMW charged to repair. Had one last thought. Had some ASSA oil (locksmiths oil, much finer than WD40) in the garage. Squirted a bit in the lock button plunger, the handle (inside) and the key hole. In a few seconds passenger door was open and the whole system worked perfectly.

Now I might have got well lucky here so I will keep you posted if it plays up again. But worth a try if it happens to you.

 

[kempy197714]

Yeah cool mine only does
It sometimemwill try it cheers

 

[AlanJ]

Now I might have got well lucky here so I will keep you posted if it plays up again. But worth a try if it happens to you.

Fingers crossed....

 

[Smokin]

FWIW, don't EVER use WD40 in a lock. It never dries so attracts and accumulates dirt and grit. ASSA may be ok (don't know of it, but they make high security locks so assume it would be ok). Some kind of teflon or other dry lube is best. Be careful with graphite as an over use will gum up the lock as well.

Had an ignition switch acting up on my '93 Probe GT. Sprayed it liberally with LPS and fixed it right up. :driving:

 

[RX826]

FWIW, don't EVER use WD40 in a lock. It never dries so attracts and accumulates dirt and grit. ASSA may be ok (don't know of it, but they make high security locks so assume it would be ok). Some kind of teflon or other dry lube is best. Be careful with graphite as an over use will gum up the lock as well.

Had an ignition switch acting up on my '93 Probe GT. Sprayed it liberally with LPS and fixed it right up. :driving:

Good advice Smokin. Wont even pretend I'm a oil or lock expert, feel my knowledge has just tripled from your post! My Dad worked in maintenance for a big construction firm and someone gave him some of this stuff as a free trial and he thought it was great. Just checked and it is quick drying and doesn't use graphite and has some anti-freeze properties in it. Here's the link to a product catalogue:

http://www.assa.se/Other/ASSA/Products/Produktblad%20Engelska/Lassystem/M1492.0911%20-%20ASSA%20Lock%20spray%20English.pdf - *ahem* Other lock oils are available.

BTW Central locking is still working fine a few days after the event. No sign of a repeat.

 

[Smokin]

FWIW, don't EVER use WD40 in a lock. It never dries so attracts and accumulates dirt and grit. ASSA may be ok (don't know of it, but they make high security locks so assume it would be ok). Some kind of teflon or other dry lube is best. Be careful with graphite as an over use will gum up the lock as well.

Had an ignition switch acting up on my '93 Probe GT. Sprayed it liberally with LPS and fixed it right up. :driving:

Good advice Smokin. Wont even pretend I'm a oil or lock expert, feel my knowledge has just tripled from your post! My Dad worked in maintenance for a big construction firm and someone gave him some of this stuff as a free trial and he thought it was great. Just checked and it is quick drying and doesn't use graphite and has some anti-freeze properties in it. Here's the link to a product catalogue:

http://www.assa.se/Other/ASSA/Products/Produktblad%20Engelska/Lassystem/M1492.0911%20-%20ASSA%20Lock%20spray%20English.pdf - *ahem* Other lock oils are available.

BTW Central locking is still working fine a few days after the event. No sign of a repeat.

Great. Glad to hear it's working. Now will make sure hubby leaves his locksmith stuff around for when I need it.

Nice link. The only problem, as I see it, is the ASSA may not be available to the public. Might want to look up LPS or Tri-flow. Around here, Tri-flow is used a lot by bicycle riders, etc.

 

[RX826]

Just an update, happened again on the weekend (after a day of use). Did a bit more oil spray and working again. Not sure if the two are related or I'm just getting lucky and the door is just releasing after a bit of play (and thumping). It's definitley the passenger side that's the problem, but it prevents the drivers door from opening unless you open it via the lock.

I did notice on the interior door handle there was a lot of oily gunk which makes me wonder if Smokin's point about using a normal oil (i.e if someone had previously used it on the my locks) and that is what the issue is with the passenger side sticking.

I contemplated removing the door panel to have a look at the lock. But having checked forum threads for this I can't say it's something I want to resort to. On my old Calibra used to take me two seconds, but that might have more to do with early nineties Vauxhall build quality!

Anyway gave it a good liberal coating this time to make sure, but I get the feeling this is just going to happen from time to time.

Might have to get the wife to practice Dukes of Hazzard style entry manoeuvres to get into the passenger seat!

 

[kempy197714]

Yeah cool mine only does
It sometimemwill try it cheers

It's doing it more now I've not been able to open pass door for 2 days did you just spray into the lock in the side arrrgh

 

[RX826]

Yeah cool mine only does
It sometimemwill try it cheers

It's doing it more now I've not been able to open pass door for 2 days did you just spray into the lock in the side arrrgh

I sprayed the button quite liberally, the door handle (inside the cabin and outside) as well as when I did open the door, actually on the lock. I'm guessing the mechanism that is sticking is below the button, so it was here I really concentrated on and then moved the passenger door handle to move the oil inside (this is total guess work by me BTW, so dont quote me). Both times I've done this the door has suddenly worked.

As has been commented on here earlier by Smokin, use a proper lock oil rather than WD40 or similar.

Failing that you might just have to ask a mechanic to have a look at it, it seems to be an issue with the actuator no popping the pin in the doorcard (*he says sounding like he knows what he's talking about* :roll: ).

Could be worse, my roof motor packed up on the weekend!