Car Starting Problem

This post has a little DIY on changing and also describes symptoms very similar to yours... http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359809
 
Reading this with interest as my start up is always a little sluggish.

OP, from everything I've read I think changing the starter is probably your next logical step.

If you do, please let us know how you get on! :thumbsup:
 
ph001 said:
Ewazix said:
Identical issue to other members and it turned out to be the ignition key switch which seems to be a common fault and a cheap fix
Previous....

Try to keep up! OP has already changed that twice. The starter is at the back of the engine below the inlet manifold. Bit of a bitch to get at from above, but can be changed without removing the manifold apparently...

E85 starter motor.jpg

Yeees, got that in post 1 :roll:

OP Changed the switch and it started fine for a couple of weeks, changed switch and it worked again, and same again. If the only thing that happened to cure the fault on those occasions was to change the switch then either improbable coincidence is involved, or the switch(s) connections or feed are faulty. Just applying logic.
 
Ewazix said:
OP Changed the switch and it started fine for a couple of weeks, changed switch and it worked again, and same again. If the only thing that happened to cure the fault on those occasions was to change the switch then either improbable coincidence is involved, or the switch(s) connections or feed are faulty. Just applying logic.

Must admit, I thought that was odd too but the chances of having a switch go faulty for a third time seem just as improbable. Dodgy connections / wiring to it, a distinct possibility though. The piece of 2x2 and a tap with a mallet is usually pretty conclusive though, as long as the OP is sure he's actually hitting the right thing!
 
ph001 said:
................... The piece of 2x2 and a tap with a mallet is usually pretty conclusive though, as long as the OP is sure he's actually hitting the right thing!

Per TIS v2.0 for the rare but desirable Lucas equipped Z4 built at Longbridge? :D

Worth a try.
 
Hi everyone!

Sorry for the delay in responding.
I was on holiday last week, so just getting back to fixing this now.

I have tried a few things as previously mentioned and nothing has worked :(
I don't have the time to spend on trying to fix it, so tomorrow morning I will have it towed to my local indy by my breakdown cover and get them to look at it.

I would have liked to have fixed it myself, but time (and mechanical knowledge!) is an issue.

I will keep you all informed on what the indy says.

Thanks for all the help...it is very much appreciated.
 
Hi Baadshah,

I've got the same issue and gone down pretty much the same path as you. (replaced starter solenoid, battery testing, checked volt drop from to rear and supply to the starter) I've also sent my EWS both keys to Ben at BM keys. My diagnostic tool listed the EWS as the fault. I purchased an Ebay EWS and Ben has cloned mine onto that. Yet to try as they've not arrived back yet. My next step is this ignition switch.
 
OP did you ever get this resolved? I've just started having a similar issue(lights come on, everything works, but engine doesn't start). It's fairly sporadic at the moment.
 
Don't think your keys are the root of your problem, the charge in the key battery is only for the central locking function, the transponder chip in the key is not powered in any way it is read by the car when it is inserted in the ignition key slot and its code is given to the EWS system to release the starter so it can be started. I would suspect the starter motor is the faulty componant if the switch has already been replaced. Starter motors go bad without advance warning, had it with mine, a good clout with a hammer shocked it into life but after a few test starts it died altogether. Replacement fitted using an RTX remanufactured unit from Carparts4less on the Web, had to return old unit as the new one carried a surcharge which was refunded when they got the old one back. Had to contact them for a return number and label. Also worth checking out all connections to the starter are clean and tight, check out the condition of the main power lead to the starter not unknown for the cable to get green crusty corrossion build up that causes high resistance that interfears with power delivery to the starter.
 
Same for me. The exchange surcharge was only £20 or so if you can’t be bothered to return the old unit. Even if it’s not the problem (and it sounds like it is), the starter motor is a wear item and a low cost investment to replace.
 
Seems to me a lot of guys on here are saying starter motor. Have you got your indy to check this yet. Was my first thoughts also.
 
Back
Top Bottom