Buckled CSLs!!!

S

StevenH72

Veteran
The recent, unfortunate wallet bashing experience suffered by Adamski (buckled CSL) got me thinking.

I'm now amidst a search for a decent set of 2nd hand OEM CSLs. Whilst I haven't found any yet I was wondering what the best way would be of checking the wheels for buckling.

On the car I'm aware that to jack up and spin the wheels with an eye test will give some kind of indication, but if I come across a set which is off of the car how would be best to check?

If I took a steel rule (long enough to span the diameter of the wheels) and ensured that the distance between the two edges was consistent all the way around would that suffice? Presumably any flat spots or buckling would impact these measurements?

I know that I could take the wheels to get checked, but if I find a set on eBay it could be tricky to sort out the logistics of having them tested. I don't want to spend ~£1500 on a set and find out they are knackered, or am I being too paranoid?
 
I dont think your being paranoid if your spending that type of cash you dont want to then fix or have to replace one.

I am no expert you want to hear from Woolybear on this i would say. He knows his wheel onions. Measuring with a rule will give you an idea to the nearest mm. Not sure what sort of tolerance you need to work on with a wheel. And as you rightly say that can only check for flat spots. If i where checking something for run out / bent i would use a DTI gauge. But you would need to mount it to a hub and rotate the wheel. I have probably got a DTI and magnetic stand i can lend you.
 
I assume you wont be buying unseen so agree to meet at a local tyre fitters & split the cost of having them all spun on their machine 8)
You wouldnt see anything other than a major knackered wheel by jacking & hand spinning ,
:thumbsup:
 
mr wilks said:
I assume you wont be buying unseen so agree to meet at a local tyre fitters & split the cost of having them all spun on their machine 8)
You wouldnt see anything other than a major knackered wheel by jacking & hand spinning ,
:thumbsup:
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Cheers Wilksy (apologies if you didnt like the pseudonym), I think that could be the best way to go.
 
Well worth checking. Would be a fair request with sellers. Walk away if seller won't allow it


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Cheers guys, I don't think there'll be any alternatives to having them professionally checked, so I'll take that route.

If I can't find a decent set after a couple of months I think i'll be going brand new, but if I can save £600 (and get the aero skirt fitted for the difference) by going second hand and still get a decent set with decent tread left then why not :driving:
 
Machine monkey said:
I dont think your being paranoid if your spending that type of cash you dont want to then fix or have to replace one.

I am no expert you want to hear from Woolybear on this i would say. He knows his wheel onions. Measuring with a rule will give you an idea to the nearest mm. Not sure what sort of tolerance you need to work on with a wheel. And as you rightly say that can only check for flat spots. If i where checking something for run out / bent i would use a DTI gauge. But you would need to mount it to a hub and rotate the wheel. I have probably got a DTI and magnetic stand i can lend you.
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Yo, MM - thanks for the plug dude :thumbsup:
Unfortunately, there's only 1 simple option, to check, that whatever you buy, are positively: Round; Straight & True, free from buckles or flat spots, on the inner or outer rims, etc..
You, will HAVE to take the rims, to an Independent garage, whether it's a Kwik fit, or a Mr Tyre etc - whoever's local to you, where you source the rims from..
And, ask the garage - to simply place each wheel, on their Wheel Balancing machine.
Then ask them to spin / rotate them.. If you can see any abnormal, movements etc - i.e. If the inner or outer rims, bounces around, like a fat lasses ass, as if she's jogging for example.. :dance2: Then, if it does, you might have problems and WALK away from them.. :thumbsdown:
If, on the other hand, there's zero movement whilst rotating the rims, on the wheel balancer - you potentially have a decent set of rims..
And, If no movements, - result and you potentially have a straight set of rims.. :thumbsup:

Being honest, whilst the above ideas, might seem a bit of a ball ache - the time and effort involved, far outweigh, ending up with a set of rims, that have problems, on one or more of the wheels.. :oops:

Lastly, you will get a better and far true'r picture, with the rims, having NO tyres fitted -when you have them spun by the garage, in all honesty..

Best of luck with the quest, for some OE CSLs.. :thumbsup:

Cheers..
 
Adamski said:
Well worth checking. Would be a fair request with sellers. Walk away if seller won't allow it


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X2..
Be weary, if a seller, is not so keen on letting you check out the rims, TBH :!:
Your the one, forking out a good wedge of hard earned cash..

Silly question though: Why, would anyone be selling a 2nd hand set of OE CSLs.. What the heck, does one replace those with!? :|
Cheers..
 
woolybear said:
Adamski said:
Well worth checking. Would be a fair request with sellers. Walk away if seller won't allow it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

X2..
Be weary, if a seller, is not so keen on letting you check out the rims, TBH :!:
Your the one, forking out a good wedge of hard earned cash..

Silly question though: Why, would anyone be selling a 2nd hand set of OE CSLs.. What the heck, does one replace those with!? :|
Cheers..
Click to expand...

Original factory wheels normally, to maximise return.
 
Sadly my experience with CSLs was - after buying a car fitted with CSLs, a BMW inspection found 2 buckles on the offside rear. Now, to be fair, I could have carried on driving the car. It handled well, and there was no noticeable vibration etc. However, with 343 horses under your right foot, it's really not sensible to take chances with a buckled rim :(

The next question should be - has anyone else had a similar experience? Are CSLs prone to buckling? Or is it just our crappy UK roads?
 
I think its common with any large wheel and low profile tyre. My boss had his XFR for only two months from December 2009 and had to have a new set of wheels due to this problem. Jag didn't want to know.

With 8+ inches of unsupported rim on the inside and whack is going to damage the wheel. The only saving grace we have is not having run flats.
 
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