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Broken Convertible Roof Motor
- Thread starter Sephanite
- Start date
Shipkiller
Veteran
I still wonder if you have to bleed the hydraulic system after you reattach the new motor?
On the 6 series, it's a self bleeding system.
On the 6 series, it's a self bleeding system.
Shipkiller said:I still wonder if you have to bleed the hydraulic system after you reattach the new motor?
On the 6 series, it's a self bleeding system.
Why don't you call a BMW specialist or dealer and ask?
Sephanite said:Recently, the roof motor has been making a straining noise when its folding down or up and moved slower. Today though, it stopped halfway with a lil noise and the roof not moving making me pull it close by hand and pressing the close button to lock it into place.
DIY for checking and changing the motor?
Anyone know if there is a simple fix?
Motor price or what else could be broken?
Had the exact same thing happen on my 2003. In March of 2007 it went out after four years of use; just a little out of warranty, but since I had mentioned it earlier, they fixed it for free. It strained for a number of openings and more so with closings before going entirely. And they did say they had to remove the top.
Whether it be use or poor engineering, I find it in very poor taste that BMW would knowingly make such a poor product and not stand behind it all the way. Just figuring that if I put my top up and down every day for four years, that would be eight hours use; extremely poor that a motor would fail every eight hours. Imagine if every electric product you have failed every eight hours; we certainly wouldn't be buying them anymore.
Cloudberry pointed out that it is rusted inside a plastic bag. To me, that indicates that BMW knew of the problem in advance and rather than fix the problem, they just put it in a bag. If it were Honda, they would likely have diverted the water away from the motor or installed a waterproof motor. Very cheap way out, BMW, and it does not speak well of your product nor your caring if the customer is satisfied; the same things that got Detroit in the position they are in. Is the writing on the wall?
Shipkiller
Veteran
The price from my dealer is $375.
There are not DIY. There are the BMW procedures. When I do mine in a month or two, then I will post a DIY....
There are not DIY. There are the BMW procedures. When I do mine in a month or two, then I will post a DIY....
Shipkiller
Veteran
This is a known problem. Unless your car is under is under warranty, you pay...
Shipkiller said:This is a known problem. Unless your car is under is under warranty, you pay...
Not true..
I had mine replaced today at my dealer and the Regional Rep covered it @ n/c..just thought I'd pass it along..
Shipkiller
Veteran
How did you get the RR to cover it?
Shipkiller said:How hard was it to get the softtop out of the car. I have the TIS/ETK procedures, but I was wondering just how hard it was to do?
From what I see in the procedures, I have to remove the rear trim panels (behind the seats) to access the mounting bolts to get the top out of the car.
Can anyone tell me where I find these "TIS/ETK procedures"? I'm thinking mine is shot too and want to give it a go.
Thanks,
Brian
Oakland, NJ, USA
Shipkiller
Veteran
Carscadden said:Shipkiller said:How hard was it to get the softtop out of the car. I have the TIS/ETK procedures, but I was wondering just how hard it was to do?
From what I see in the procedures, I have to remove the rear trim panels (behind the seats) to access the mounting bolts to get the top out of the car.
Can anyone tell me where I find these "TIS/ETK procedures"? I'm thinking mine is shot too and want to give it a go.
Thanks,
Brian
Oakland, NJ, USA
I have them posted on my site. http://www.shipkiller.com
I wanted to pass along my thanks to Shipkiller for his wonderful website. I have a 2003 Z4, and of course at 39K the top stopped working. Yes, just outside of the extended warranty BMW said they would cover. And since I do practically ZERO work at the dealers I expected my chances of getting the repair covered were nil, or maybe even less.
At 44K I decided I was tired of muscling the top up and down, and started getting the parts together to do it myself. I picked up a brand new motor off of eBay for $75 last winter (no one else bid on it, I put it a $600 bid, but got it for the minimum bid). The BMW parts catalog is confusing, so I was concerned that I had the wrong motor, but came upon Shopkiller's website, which showed the same motor as I had . I always say that I can take anything apart, and sometimes get it back together again. I had just finished replacing the evaporator on my Durango, which involved stripping it down to the firewall, so I was only a little concerned to tackle the mechanics of the Z4 problem. My bigger worry was doing a bozo and scratching the paint.
So after pouring over Shipkillers photos I tackled the repair. You really only need a second person twice. Once for 15 minutes or less to lift the disconnected top out of the car, and once to put it back in. All the disconnects and reconnects are really a one-person job, but it would be nice to have someone else keeping track of the order things came out.
All total time for the repair was 5.5 hours start to stop. 3 1/2 hours to take it out, 2 hours to put the new motor on and reinstall the top. I bet I could do it now in 4 hours total.
My comments that I would change/add:
1) Remove the switch first before removing the soft top compartment floor. It's easy to get at both torx screws. Why? Because when you put the compartment floor back in, it is real easy to knock the lever off the switch. I know, I did it. It's real easy to remove and reinstall the switch with the compartment floor back in place, so you might as well just take it out first.
2) Getting the soft top weatherstripping disconnect from the car is difficult to start, but easy once you get started. You have to start from one side or the other, and work all the way around. Don't start on one side stop in the middle, then go to the other side and end back in the middle. What happens is the aluminum in the seal will get a reverse curve, and you'll curse and have to work it with a soft mallet to get it to reseat.
All total cost for the repair? Under $200. I bought the motor on eBay for $75 (alright, I realize I lucked into that and it won't be typical), I bought the new housing and insulation from ecstuning.com ($103 including shipping), and $7 for a tube of silicone plus some butyl tape.
So all in all a relatively easy repair for a big amount of savings.
Steve
2003 Z4 2.5
At 44K I decided I was tired of muscling the top up and down, and started getting the parts together to do it myself. I picked up a brand new motor off of eBay for $75 last winter (no one else bid on it, I put it a $600 bid, but got it for the minimum bid). The BMW parts catalog is confusing, so I was concerned that I had the wrong motor, but came upon Shopkiller's website, which showed the same motor as I had . I always say that I can take anything apart, and sometimes get it back together again. I had just finished replacing the evaporator on my Durango, which involved stripping it down to the firewall, so I was only a little concerned to tackle the mechanics of the Z4 problem. My bigger worry was doing a bozo and scratching the paint.
So after pouring over Shipkillers photos I tackled the repair. You really only need a second person twice. Once for 15 minutes or less to lift the disconnected top out of the car, and once to put it back in. All the disconnects and reconnects are really a one-person job, but it would be nice to have someone else keeping track of the order things came out.
All total time for the repair was 5.5 hours start to stop. 3 1/2 hours to take it out, 2 hours to put the new motor on and reinstall the top. I bet I could do it now in 4 hours total.
My comments that I would change/add:
1) Remove the switch first before removing the soft top compartment floor. It's easy to get at both torx screws. Why? Because when you put the compartment floor back in, it is real easy to knock the lever off the switch. I know, I did it. It's real easy to remove and reinstall the switch with the compartment floor back in place, so you might as well just take it out first.
2) Getting the soft top weatherstripping disconnect from the car is difficult to start, but easy once you get started. You have to start from one side or the other, and work all the way around. Don't start on one side stop in the middle, then go to the other side and end back in the middle. What happens is the aluminum in the seal will get a reverse curve, and you'll curse and have to work it with a soft mallet to get it to reseat.
All total cost for the repair? Under $200. I bought the motor on eBay for $75 (alright, I realize I lucked into that and it won't be typical), I bought the new housing and insulation from ecstuning.com ($103 including shipping), and $7 for a tube of silicone plus some butyl tape.
So all in all a relatively easy repair for a big amount of savings.
Steve
2003 Z4 2.5
uspsadriver
New member
I realize this is an old thread but if anyone can help it would be appreciated. I have completed all the tasks that Shipkiller outlined in his description of the repair. I find myself stumped at removing the hoop. All seven screws have been removed. I understand the ends need to be moved up and in. The photo that is available is so dark I can't see where this clip is located. The place where I think it is is so far around the bend that I can't seem to exert any leverage to move it up...... suggestions please...
Thanks
Thanks
uspsadriver
New member
Ok, I will continue this if anyone is interested. It is easier that it seems. But a detail that is left out of most posts is important. Do the last part, the removal of the hoop from outside the car. With the top in the halfway position, or so. Grab a hand full of the cloth roof and yank up and in . That's it. come right out.
Now for the surprise. My motor is dry and intact, like new. 2003 purchased in 06. I'm not sure if it's original or was replaced. Oil is dripping from the cylinder on the passenger side. It look like there is oil down around the drain hole. I haven't had time to put power to the motor but i wonder if I just have no oil/low and that's why the system will not work. unsure about how to proceed. It does not appear to be a bad connection of the hydraulic lines but the cylinder itself appears to be leaking. Has any one seen or heard of this problem?
thanks
Steve
Plantation,Florida
Now for the surprise. My motor is dry and intact, like new. 2003 purchased in 06. I'm not sure if it's original or was replaced. Oil is dripping from the cylinder on the passenger side. It look like there is oil down around the drain hole. I haven't had time to put power to the motor but i wonder if I just have no oil/low and that's why the system will not work. unsure about how to proceed. It does not appear to be a bad connection of the hydraulic lines but the cylinder itself appears to be leaking. Has any one seen or heard of this problem?
thanks
Steve
Plantation,Florida