Brake Pads

D

Dev

Member
 London
Mornin' all!

I wanted to get your thoughts/advice/ideas on this one, as it's the first time I'm tackling this particular job. I have to change the front brake pads on my 3.0 Z4 (pre-facelift), I had an advisory that they were 'around 30%' when I had my MOT recently, and now the little light on the dash has popped up!

So there are 2 key questions;

1. Who has done it
2. What pads did you use?

I'm currently running the stock setup so I won't be changing calipers/discs unless someone can give me a good reason to do so, and it works out cost effective. The car is my daily driver. I think the current pads are Mintex, but that's only going by what is on the back (I can see the brand on the pad through the wheel spokes!) and that when I bought the car the seller told me that they'd changed the pads all round. The fronts do throw out a HUGE amount of dust, but I've not had a problem with stopping and they've always been quiet. The car is my daily driver, so while I'd love to take it to the track, it's not a priority - I'm no racer, so while I'll be doing euro trip taking in the 'ring and Spa next spring, I won't be giving it the full beans. Brake fluid was changed at the last service (earlier this year - May IIRC) by the main dealer.
 
I need to do same, will be doing it this weekend. Annoyingly my Passat decided to put it's breake pad light on the day after the Z4 did so I've got 2 to do!

What was interesting though is that the Z4 pads were 2/3 the price of the Passat ones - both cars are using PAGID items sourced from Eurocarparts.

If I tackle it before you I'll let you know how I get on but it is, reputedly, a straightforward job on the Zed.
 
Pagid get a :thumbsup: from me and they are well up to the job at the Ring (there again on Saturday). Changing the pads is a simple job, but don't forget that you'll need a new sensor too as yours will be worn having set off the warning light.

Half hour a wheel tops, including jacking and wheel removal.
 
Be carefull when buying Paidgs, they do not all come with holding pins and the performance ones (I have Yellow RS 29's front and back) and they are very noisy and through out a huige amount of residue (not that I mind really).

One thing for sure is that you should have the same pads front and rear for balance.
 
Dev said:
Mornin' all!

I wanted to get your thoughts/advice/ideas on this one, as it's the first time I'm tackling this particular job. I have to change the front brake pads on my 3.0 Z4 (pre-facelift), I had an advisory that they were 'around 30%' when I had my MOT recently, and now the little light on the dash has popped up!

So there are 2 key questions;

1. Who has done it
2. What pads did you use?

I'm currently running the stock setup so I won't be changing calipers/discs unless someone can give me a good reason to do so, and it works out cost effective. The car is my daily driver. I think the current pads are Mintex, but that's only going by what is on the back (I can see the brand on the pad through the wheel spokes!) and that when I bought the car the seller told me that they'd changed the pads all round. The fronts do throw out a HUGE amount of dust, but I've not had a problem with stopping and they've always been quiet. The car is my daily driver, so while I'd love to take it to the track, it's not a priority - I'm no racer, so while I'll be doing euro trip taking in the 'ring and Spa next spring, I won't be giving it the full beans. Brake fluid was changed at the last service (earlier this year - May IIRC) by the main dealer.
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Done mine a couple of months ago. Brembo Pads from http://www.nextdaybrakes.com. About £60 delivered for Pads all around.
Front and Brake sensors £6 each delivered from http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...bmw+z4+brake+sensor&_sacat=See-All-Categories You need one of each, front and rear.

IIRC it took me 3-4 hours to do including cuppa break. Would probably take 2-3 hours next time.
If you're gonna have a go yourself trolley jack/axle stands are a must. Check your jack goes under first. Mine did with mm's clearance.
Getting the wheels off initially was a PITA until I googled. Slacken off the wheel bolts halfway. Jack up until about 1" off the ground. Lay on your back and kick the tyre at 6 and 9 oclock with the soles of your size 10's until the wheel comes off its spline. Jack up fully, axle stands under and away you go. Get yourself a small bungee cord(poundland has them) for hanging the caliper off of a coil spring while you change the pads.
Have some cable ties handy in case you're ham fisted like me and manage to snap some of the sensor cable clips.

Although I'm an Engineer by trade it's a very simple job that any DIY'er could tackle easily.
The pads themselves are what they are. Dunno how they compare to reds,greens,yellows but they stop the car. :thumbsup:
 
The first time you do it is the hardest, afterwards it's pretty straightforward. Did mine 2 times so far.

If you're happy with the pads you have now stick with them and as ChawenHalo said make sure you have the same model pads front and rear so as not to mess with the brake balance. I usually do mine before the light comes on so i dont replace the sensor.

On the M we need a 7mm hex key which i couldnt find in any of the kits on the market (here anyway), they all went 6mm->8mm and it took me a week or two of visiting hardware stores till i managed to track one down... I'm not sure if you need this or if this is only on M's. Maybe one of the other members can tell us for sure.
 
Thanks for all the help/opinions guys,

Just got some Pagid pads and a sensor from ECP (along with some copper grease and some new windscreen wiper blades!)
I'm going to check the pads properly on both the front and rear for make, and will probably swap the rears out for the same if the change to Pagids works out well. They're just the road pads, nothing 'special' - apart from the price (quite cheap with the discount code). No idea if the discs are OEM, they look it but will hopefully see some markings when I've had the wheels off. Dreading the sight of the corrosion behind the spokes on my 107's!

Interesting to note: I read on their website that TMD Friction are the parent company of the brands Mintex, Pagid and Textar. I wonder if their 'standard' products (not the high performance stuff, but the pads intended as OEM replacement) are the same physical items but just branded differently?

Oh, and thanks for the tip re: hex key! Luckily I have a selection at home which I'm sure has as 7mm, don't know if the non-m's need it but will soon find out!
 
I used stock OEM pads, but bought the sensor cable from a guy on ebay - only a fiver, but you will need one for the front and one for the back if the warning light is on.

Like others say you need a 7mm Hex (allen) key, which is actually a Ford Special tool for some reason, so you can usually only get them from tool shops and the like, they are NEVER included in standard sets - most cars use them nowadays.

By the way, after you refit the sensor cable, (which is also a simple job by the way) you need to reset the switch. All I did was switch the engine on and off a few times, with a ten second delay between stop/ start/ stop. If memory serves it takes five cycles, so don't worry if it stays on for a while.

Steve
 
I've used mintex before, and would use them again. Front set of mintex pads for your car go for £21 on eBay :) what could possibly go wrong?!?
 
The Pagids worked out at £26 from Euro Car Parts - I'm a bit paranoid about getting fakes from eBay (quite a few around apparently) so for the sake of £5 I thought it wasn't worth the risk. The box arrived at my parent's place yesterday afternoon, yellow Textar box rather than a blue Pagid one, but it's the same part number as the Pagids - so it does look like a branding exercise at this end of the market.
 
I'm going to get some new Pagids from Eurocarparts. Is there anything else I need to get to replace the pads apart from tools? I know I need a new sensor but I don't know which to get front or back :?

Any ideas on knowing which sensor is worn out?
 
I used these people recently for Mintex pads - top notch service, and good prices, too:

http://www.justpartsbiz.co.uk

The hex drive required is 7mm, but I've never had trouble getting one as all my socket sets have one in them to use on a small ratchet.

Job is dead easy on all BMW's. 2 hours tops for a beginner and remember you need a big flat-blade screwdriver to prize the caliper open to ease the pads off the disc...carefully so as not to damage disc face.... before you release the sliding pins. The sliding pins have covers on them which pull off, and the 7mm hex drive fits directly into them. The anti-squeel spring (on the face as you look) can be tight. Persevere, and take you time....it does just 'pop-off'. Remember to ensure the sliding pins are clean before re-using them, and do not oil or grease them as they clog-up with brake crud if you do and stop sliding. Put a little copper grease on the mating face between the pad and caliper and pad and piston, and nowhere else. Put a little copper grease on the wheel-to-hub mating faces, and again a little copper grease on the tip of your wheel bots before you re-insert them. Stops it all seizing up in the salty crap that's coming along.

All of the above is done without climbing under the car. Use a light so you can see what you're doing, or you'll get sore knuckles!

Sensors? I'd guess it's front as they go quicker (if all pads are the same age!), but get both as they are fragile and you may damage them on removal.

HTH
 
2alpsade said:
I used these people recently for Mintex pads - top notch service, and good prices, too:

http://www.justpartsbiz.co.uk

The hex drive required is 7mm, but I've never had trouble getting one as all my socket sets have one in them to use on a small ratchet.

Job is dead easy on all BMW's. 2 hours tops for a beginner and remember you need a big flat-blade screwdriver to prize the caliper open to ease the pads off the disc...carefully so as not to damage disc face.... before you release the sliding pins. The sliding pins have covers on them which pull off, and the 7mm hex drive fits directly into them. The anti-squeel spring (on the face as you look) can be tight. Persevere, and take you time....it does just 'pop-off'. Remember to ensure the sliding pins are clean before re-using them, and do not oil or grease them as they clog-up with brake crud if you do and stop sliding. Put a little copper grease on the mating face between the pad and caliper and pad and piston, and nowhere else. Put a little copper grease on the wheel-to-hub mating faces, and again a little copper grease on the tip of your wheel bots before you re-insert them. Stops it all seizing up in the salty crap that's coming along.

All of the above is done without climbing under the car. Use a light so you can see what you're doing, or you'll get sore knuckles!

Sensors? I'd guess it's front as they go quicker (if all pads are the same age!), but get both as they are fragile and you may damage them on removal.

HTH
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Good advice there, i use a large C clamp to compress the pistons myself. So much easier and quicker.
 
ga41 said:
Good advice there, i use a large C clamp to compress the pistons myself. So much easier and quicker.
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Yes, I normally use one on the rears...esp if they are the 'screw-in' piston type (not sure on Z4's - haven't done mine yet.....job for next week) as you can get grips in there and turn the piston whilst squeezing the clamp with your other hand. Just go easy round the rubber seals..... :!:
 
Does anyone know how much copper grease I need for doing all four brake pads? 20G or 70G?

http://www.eurocarparts.com/copper-grease

and is there anything else I need? I did read that I need some holding pins aswell?
 
Exactmax said:
Does anyone know how much copper grease I need for doing all four brake pads? 20G or 70G?

http://www.eurocarparts.com/copper-grease

and is there anything else I need? I did read that I need some holding pins aswell?
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A smear - 20g will do but if you think you'll ever do them again get the 70g as it'll work out cheaper.

You'll only need holding pins if they're damaged (unlikely) - I always polish and re-fit original without problems. Keep it in your wallet :wink: Pads and sensors plus a little copper grease will be all you need for a standard pad-change.
 
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