Brake Discs & Pads

etedlm said:
not on the car yet.the discs are ate discs which are the same ones you would buy at the stealers.yes,my car is an ///m :thumbsup:
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I thought ECP listed genuine parts as 'genuine' - the ATE ones are listed as 'OE quality', although they are half the price of genuine ones :thumbsup:
BMW pads are dusty, chocolate teapot Textar (IIRC), not Pagid.
 
I need to sort out discs and pads for mine all round. Is there any alternative on the M or is OEM the best to get?

I had EBC ultimax and redstuff pads on my 350z, which I bedded in and they worked just lovely.
 
Booner said:
I need to sort out discs and pads for mine all round. Is there any alternative on the M or is OEM the best to get?
I had EBC ultimax and redstuff pads on my 350z, which I bedded in and they worked just lovely.
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EBC do upgraded pads, but don't do upgraded discs yet.

The options for pads are (average prices):
  • Pagid RS19/29 (£195 for fronts, £165 for rears)
  • Ferodo DS2500/3000 (£185 for fronts, £90 for rears)
  • Performance Friction Z (£65 for fronts, £70 for rears)
  • EBC Red (£80 for fronts, £50 for rears)
  • EBC Yellow (£95 for fronts, £70 for rears)
 
cj10jeeper said:
Rags said:
I am new here however BMW's and Warped discs are generally a myth.

See below:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
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Welcome Rags and I agree with you.

Did you read this thread? That's the same link as I posted on the previous page..
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I thought I had read the thread but I must confess I missed where you posted the link.

I have that link saved in my favourites anytime someone talks about 'warped discs' :D :D
 
mmm- five is spot on with his suggestions.

I have gone down this route with a z3m and a CSL.

What I did in each case was:

Standard Discs
Ferodo DS2500
Braided Lines
ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid

Other than some minor squeal on very cold days, the brakes were a massive improvement for what I would say is hardly any extra cost in relation to the standard equipment.

I will be doing the same again when it comes to changing my brakes. :)
 
JayD said:
Welcome Rags, long time no speak mate.

You on the look out for a Coupe then?

Jay
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Hi Jay,

Thought I recognised your name!

Just traded my e90 m3 for a Z4M.

I needed a quirky weekend car, so can't wait to pick it up on friday :D .


How are you finding your Z4M?
 
Rags said:
JayD said:
Welcome Rags, long time no speak mate.

You on the look out for a Coupe then?

Jay
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Hi Jay,

Thought I recognised your name!

Just traded my e90 m3 for a Z4M.

I needed a quirky weekend car, so can't wait to pick it up on friday :D .


How are you finding your Z4M?
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Good stuff mate, have you gone for a Coupe?

I have had the Z4M since Dec 06 and still love it although I dont use it that much at the moment and it will probably mean I will have to shift it later in the year as I have to plough all my money into the house I am doing up. Will be a sad day, defo the best car I have owned!

Jay
 
Hmmm, so I might go for standard discs, redstuff pads (have used before, no brake dust and good bite after few applications)....how much roughly should I be looking at for fitting/labour?

Any specialists around Oxford area??
 
As long as pads are changed regularly when required and everything else is properly maintained warped disks should be very very rare (I would hope so in a high quality performance car). Disks shouldn't need changing in three/four years let alone just 2 years. Unfortunately most dealers will put it down to wear and tear despite it clearly being an unusual issue. Take the 40% discount.
 
cj10jeeper said:
If you want to read up on warped disks (or the lack of) thne this is a great article http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
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I've just posted a new question on the correct break-in procedure for new discs and pads:

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18720

But in short what's the best way to do it? A series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph as the above article suggests?
 
That's the sort of process I've always followed, but I leave it to specialist like Stoptech to advise. The key to this is of course not to stop and imprint the pads on the rotors.
 
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