Brake disc replacements

C

Clemmo

Member
 Mile Oak B78 3PL
Ok..
so on my 2009 S23i the brake Discs look ropey...Rust.
They function fine but my OCD can't live with the look.
Ive inspected all round and the pads have loads left.

1. Can I change my own Discs simply? Fronts n Rears?

2. Is there a walk through available anywhere?

3. Do I have to change the pads and sensors or can I put back whats there?

4. Where can it all go wrong?

Apologies from a Newbie if this is covered elsewhere

Clemmo :thumbsup:
 
Clemmo said:
Ok..
so on my 2009 S23i the brake Discs look ropey...Rust.
They function fine but my OCD can't live with the look.
Ive inspected all round and the pads have loads left.

1. Can I change my own Discs simply? Fronts n Rears?

2. Is there a walk through available anywhere?

3. Do I have to change the pads and sensors or can I put back whats there?

4. Where can it all go wrong?

Apologies from a Newbie if this is covered elsewhere

Clemmo :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Hey Clemmo.

It can all go very wrong..!! Tbh mate if you’re this unsure I’d let someone else change them, you really shouldn’t go messing with brakes unless you’re sure you know what you’re doing. It’s not hard but on the other hand they’re arguably the most vital part on a car.

Take the safe route mate. :thumbsup:
 
There are plenty of DIYs around. As long as you have the right tools and follow the correct procedures, it's pretty straight forward. However, don't take any chances if you're not confident.
 
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

You should find the procedure on there.

It’s not hard as John said but if you aren’t sure then I’d take it to a garage.

The sensors may as well be replaced as they are only plug in connectors one end and sit in the pad the other, very easy to figure out and they are cheap as chips at about £7 each one rear O/S one front N/S.

BMW say not to lubricate the slides. I dissagree with this and put a smear of Silglyde on them. Don’t use copper grease on the slides as it will make the rubbers swell and could gum up.

Torque specs on the slides is 30nm all round , 110 for the carriers aka collars on the front, 65 rear.

You will have to loosen handbrake shoes to get the rear disks off and re tighten - the tightening involves removing the handbrake leather pad to get to the spring so have a look on TIS and see if you’re up for it before you start.

Edit - Definitley replace the collar bolts they stretch.
 
Silverzedtom said:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

You should find the procedure on there.

It’s not hard as John said but if you aren’t sure then I’d take it to a garage.

The sensors may as well be replaced as they are only plug in connectors one end and sit in the pad the other, very easy to figure out and they are cheap as chips at about £7 each one rear O/S one front N/S.

BMW say not to lubricate the slides. I dissagree with this and put a smear of Silglyde on them. Don’t use copper grease on the slides as it will make the rubbers swell and could gum up.

Torque specs on the slides is 30nm all round , 110 for the carriers aka collars on the front, 65 rear.

You will have to loosen handbrake shoes to get the rear disks off and re tighten - the tightening involves removing the handbrake leather pad to get to the spring so have a look on TIS and see if you’re up for it before you start.

Edit - Definitley replace the collar bolts they stretch.
Click to expand...

Good advice apart from the op has an e89 with no rear shoes or handbrake lever :thumbsup:
It’s also not good practice to replace the discs without changing the pads as well, they wear to each other & old pads on new discs wouldn’t give very much stopping power :o
Rob
 
Yes I agree with Rob don't fit used pads to new discs as you can cause hot spots then get brake judder

But as other's have said its not too difficult if you know what you're doing and have the tools
recently stripped mine and painted the calipers
 
ok..Thanks.
Im happy to do it.
The fronts don't concern me..just the rears with the electric brake which ive never worked with before.

In addition Im guessing Ill need to get the service indicator reset?

Clemmo
 
do a bit of research on the big nationals who do brake pads etc, quickfit and the like. Quite often they do a great offer, get your pads changed and get free pads and labour in the future as long as you own the car.
The while process is very simple if you know how, if you don't leave WELL ALONE.
EBD do some very effective slotted discs, don't get drilled they look good but have lots of issues.
 
As a thought. If you're concerned about corrosion on the edges of the discs - this will occur again not all that long after you've changed the discs...

Also knob QuikFit unless you're a fan of lobbing lousy components in your car.
 
Clemmo said:
Ok..
so on my 2009 S23i the brake Discs look ropey...Rust.
They function fine but my OCD can't live with the look.
Ive inspected all round and the pads have loads left.
Click to expand...

Do you have any pics?

Are the brakes worn, ie is the a lip around the outer edge?

Uneven wear?

Ridges across the discs?

Steel brake discs rust in hours, on the car, in the damp. Doesn't necessarily mean they need replacing.

Plus as mentioned elsewhere. If you are changing the discs. You should change the pads also. Otherwise the old pads will scour your new discs and they will look the same again in no time. :)
 
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