Boot/trunk will not open on E89

[Xela]

My boot/trunk will not open using remote fob or manually by lifting BMW badge on boot lid. There is a plastic insert where the internal boot release should be (next to bonnet release).

All fuses are intact. I'm thinking it could be a roof issue? However, even if it is, knowing this doesn't help if you can't access the boot.

I do not have a ski hatch fitted and BMW don't fit one retrospectively. I wonder is there is a plastic insert that could be punched out to gain access to boot. This assumes the would be some kind of toggle to pull to release boot catch.

Does anyone know of any way to access boot given the above?

Many thanks

 

[clarker63]

does the roof open or do you get some errors? there's no easy way to do it without retrofitting a bowden cable I believe.

 

[Smartbear]

It’s only the American cars that have the anti-kidnap bowden cable i believe
Rob

 

[flybobbie]

Think you need to read codes.
There could be a roof fault stopping the boot from unlocking.
Try the roof.

 

[ric19]

I think the dealers are able to order the boot to open, overriding any errors that are showing by using their dedicated software

 

[ric19]

From the maintenance doc:-

The rear lid can also be forced to open by using the diagnostic tester. The rear lid
activation via the JBE component activation function. This activation request
ignores all status that would typically inhibit rear lid operation such as top
position.

 

[Mojito]

Have a look at my post " Another Boot Lock not opening from Roundel" - Cause and Solution. It's under E89 Problems.
You can definately open the the boot lid using a Foxwell - I've done it.
Hope this helps.

 

[flybobbie]

Have a look at my post " Another Boot Lock not opening from Roundel" - Cause and Solution. It's under E89 Problems.
You can definately open the the bid lid using a Foxwell - I've done it.
Hope this helps.

Something i was going to check using my Foxwell, nice to know.
Probably my best investment that code reader.

 

[Xela]

Thank you all for your prompt and great advice. I am humbled and blown away at the same time.

I bought my 2.8iS as a present to myself for a milestone birthday. She gets little use and sits outside all the time (the car that is).She is a 2012 plate with only 13,000 miles on the clock. I was wondering it it might be water ingress but the boot not opening occurred last summer where the temperatures were high and we had very little, if any, rain to speak of.

Through lack of use, the battery went flat (for the first time) so I borrowed a charger from a friend. I put it on full charge overnight and did not disconnect the battery. I was wondering if this might be the cause. The aircon did not work either though that was sorted out with a recharge.

Anyway, I have plenty to be getting on with and am thinking of getting a diagnostic kit if I can command boot to open with that. Although I been it may be a roof issue, I still need to get into the boot. Especially as I suspect this fact alone would fail an MOT??

I will keep you posted.

Best wishes

Xela

 

[clarker63]

Thank you all for your prompt and great advice. I am humbled and blown away at the same time.

I bought my 2.8iS as a present to myself for a milestone birthday. She gets little use and sits outside all the time (the car that is).She is a 2012 plate with only 13,000 miles on the clock. I was wondering it it might be water ingress but the boot not opening occurred last summer where the temperatures were high and we had very little, if any, rain to speak of.

Through lack of use, the battery went flat (for the first time) so I borrowed a charger from a friend. I put it on full charge overnight and did not disconnect the battery. I was wondering if this might be the cause. The aircon did not work either though that was sorted out with a recharge.

Anyway, I have plenty to be getting on with and am thinking of getting a diagnostic kit if I can command boot to open with that. Although I been it may be a roof issue, I still need to get into the boot. Especially as I suspect this fact alone would fail an MOT??

I will keep you posted.

Best wishes

Xela

Sounds like you have a raft of issues. you need to sort each one out in order, and opening the boot is the first. you may find its full of water (by the pump) or damp electronics (under the right boot panel) or an old battery, or faulty microswitches or broken wires...or something else! You didn't mention if the roof opens, I am assuming not... (but its helpful to know as access to the boot area, even only when the roof is partially open is key, as is any error codes)

 

[Anonymous]

Have a look at my post " Another Boot Lock not opening from Roundel" - Cause and Solution. It's under E89 Problems.
You can definately open the the boot lid using a Foxwell - I've done it.
Hope this helps.

That’s good to know, I don’t normally use my Foxwell for my Zed but I may stick it in the car along with my Protool from Bimmergeeks going forward.

As clarke63 said by this stage it could be a raft of issues but any water in the boot is an obvious and bad sign, long flat batteries are notorious for throwing both spurious and real errors...some of which can cause permanent damage to ECUs that require factory coding tools to recover from.

Once flattened in this way they are essentially junk as the E89 needs lots of high quality ‘juice’ to work well..

 

[flybobbie]

Any long term standing of car might be good idea to keep bonnet unlatched, so as to get to the charge points.

 

[clarker63]

Any long term standing of car might be good idea to keep bonnet unlatched, so as to get to the charge points.

interesting. its a manual cable release on the bonnet.. did you mean the boot?

 

[enuff_zed]

Any long term standing of car might be good idea to keep bonnet unlatched, so as to get to the charge points.

interesting. its a manual cable release on the bonnet.. did you mean the boot?

I suspect he means that if you lock the car and the battery goes flat you can simply lift the bonnet to access the battery charging terminals, connect another battery and hopefully have enough power to at least unlock and access everything.
I know a lot of people don't have power in their garage and therefore cannot leave any kind of trickle charger/maintainer connected, but I think Smartbear did have an interim solution, with a Ctek cable permanently connected and tucked away behind the grill. Then I would think if you got to your car and it was flat, there would be at least a chance of employing an extension lead and getting enough charge in to open it all up maybe?

 

[clarker63]

Any long term standing of car might be good idea to keep bonnet unlatched, so as to get to the charge points.

interesting. its a manual cable release on the bonnet.. did you mean the boot?

I suspect he means that if you lock the car and the battery goes flat you can simply lift the bonnet to access the battery charging terminals, connect another battery and hopefully have enough power to at least unlock and access everything.
I know a lot of people don't have power in their garage and therefore cannot leave any kind of trickle charger/maintainer connected, but I think Smartbear did have an interim solution, with a Ctek cable permanently connected and tucked away behind the grill. Then I would think if you got to your car and it was flat, there would be at least a chance of employing an extension lead and getting enough charge in to open it all up maybe?

fair point if the locks no longer work with a flat battery, but I'd be surprised if the key didn't work manually.. (although I'm usually surprised by something each day!)

 

[Zed Baron]

I once shut the boot with the battery disconnected, luckily I could open the bonnet and managed to run a jump lead to one of my other cars to the power points in the engine bay. From memory it allowed just enough juice to open the boot with the key fob or the central locking button on the dash

 

[Xela]

Hello all

So I have taken my Z4 to a local garage who have diagnostic equipment and they have been unable to command the boot lock to release.

The mechanic is sure that it is an issue with the roof and wants access to a BMW wiring diagram. Sadly, BMW themselves are unwilling to provide the information I require even though they know the solution.

So I am hoping someone on the Z4-Forum might be able to help. What we want to know are the colour of the two wires that go to the selenoid that will release the boot catch. My mechanic also wanted to know where the CTM is located (he hadn't yet googled it) and told me, if it helps prompt any other helpful response, that the T30 has zero voltage to it and the fault code is A699.

I would really appreciate any help to this somewhat intractable little problem.

Again, with many thanks


Xela

 

[Anonymous]

Hello all

So I have taken my Z4 to a local garage who have diagnostic equipment and they have been unable to command the boot lock to release.

The mechanic is sure that it is an issue with the roof and wants access to a BMW wiring diagram. Sadly, BMW themselves are unwilling to provide the information I require even though they know the solution.

So I am hoping someone on the Z4-Forum might be able to help. What we want to know are the colour of the two wires that go to the selenoid that will release the boot catch. My mechanic also wanted to know where the CTM is located (he hadn't yet googled it) and told me, if it helps prompt any other helpful response, that the T30 has zero voltage to it and the fault code is A699.

I would really appreciate any help to this somewhat intractable little problem.

Again, with many thanks


Xela

Not being funny, but having studied this in great detail many times, if your garage is starting from that baseline I don't think there is much hope..the system is fiendishly complex, often the fault codes don't relate to the real faults and there are now many faults that could exist, including but not limited to several microswitches, some hall effect sensors, damaged wiring around the boot button and frayed / broken wires around the hinge mechanism..

Its also really really easy to make things worse by getting the alignment of crtical areas distorted.

So if he doesn't have the where withall to get a few wiring diagrams then..

I know its not helpful, and maybe I'd be proved wrong..

 

[flybobbie]

Colleagues son had his car engine smashed up, when they replaced a un-needed cyl. head gasket. Car was gone for weeks.
I phoned local service dept. with symptoms, they said it was EGR valve, very common on that model Vauxhall.
Internet was full of forum problem/solutions and angry owners.
Makes you wonder who they employ in garages..

 

[RobbiZ4]

[...]My mechanic also wanted to know where the CTM is located (he hadn't yet googled it) and told me, if it helps prompt any other helpful response, that the T30 has zero voltage to it and the fault code is A699.[...]

To be honest, your mechanic is not and will not be the right person to support you regarding the complex roof system on your E89. At least, more might be destroyed than before. The roof system secures itself against any unqualified violence!

What I'm missing is the initial story of the symptoms. What has happended in the past, what did you do and what has been done at the garage in between?

There are qualified garages well known here in the forum, give it a try regarding of your unknown location.