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Boot soft close failure-Fixed

I have the problem....

Took apart the rear boot cover and removed the boot motor assembly (tied up with light rope to support it)...

I managed to get one side of the connectors off but not the other side - I just can't see how it is connected? I did strip back the outer sheathing of the little harness but no breaks.. The boot motors make the noise but the soft close function doesn't work... The bigger bronze couloured cogs don't move...

You can see the LHS and the RHS do not have cut wires...
I can get the connector marked by the yellow arrow off, but not the one marked with the red arrow...

Kind of stuck unfortunately....

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hi guys first time on one of these chat thingys but just had to say a big thanks to you all i decided to tackle my dodgy boot today.The light stopped working ages ago then the boot soft close played up now and then so i read this forum and bingo!!!It was exactly as you had stated the Green and Black wires were cut right through, really clean cut though .
A great big thanks to everyone on here keep up the good work!!
 
So glad I decided to look on here for this problem ,only had my car a couple of weeks and this has started to happen on my 2011 so will get right on it as soon as I can .not worth bothering the dealer as I do a lot of soldering with my rc aircraft so not a problem (I hope)😀
Thanks to all who posted pics' etc , great help .
Cheers, Mike.
 
Smartbear said:
It’s a shame that bmw haven’t held their hands up for causing this issue, i wonder how many owners have paid considerable sums of money for this to be resolved? :?
Rob
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Sorted mine yesterday the soldering took about 5 minutes but geting all the screws out and the cover took about two hours 😂
Same problem, wires cut , works fine now!
 
Mine was the same, fixed it today......all three wires on the passenger side severed, dropped the whole unit out and took it to the bench and soldered them together, heat shrink. all sorted.

Great find... cheers :thumbsup:
 
So I got a similar problem on my 2011 Z4, where the soft close just started continuously cycling and going up and down trying to close the trunk!. This was going on whenever I would try to drive the car and at random when I parked the car. I took the trunk locking assembly off and everything look fine.. but stripped the protecting tubing and the exact same two wires in this picture similar lengths were clean cut!.

Repaired them, and reassembled it - and everything is fine! Whoever figured this out - THANK-YOU!
 
Mines has failed again for the second time, right at the bottom of the small unit, concerned I may not be able to solder the wire to the unit. If not, is there anywhere you can get replacements?
 
I now have this issue with my 2013 LCI so this issue is live and well on newer cars too and must have been an incorrectly set cabling tool at the factory that is going too deep into the wires. Issue was on production runs from at least 2009-2015. In my case I close the boot but the close mechanism is not engaging. I had this issue a few months ago too but it went away. It then was like this intermittently, doing it maybe 1 in every 20 boot closes or less. It is now permanently back.

When I try to open the boot with the round BMW circular tailgate handle I hear the motors operate. But when the boot goes down, there is no noise from the mechanism at all that does the soft close which implies the that when the boot goes down the switch signal is not getting through to the motors that pulling the boot shut.

EDIT: I manually pressed the latches on the lid to see if that would change it. Now the boot is permanently stuck open. Fortunately the car is garaged otherwise the boot would flood!
 
Guys, can you only prove that the wires are broken by removing the black outer heat shrink sheath first? I'd like to prove the wires are broken before I start to cut away at the sheath. I just ordered some cheapish TORX bits since I don;t have the T20 and T40.

Reason is that I have car under extended warranty with a £100 excess. Happy to save that £100 excess if I can by doing this job myself. I have soldering iron, heat shrink and gun etc already.
 
step_change said:
Guys, can you only prove that the wires are broken by removing the black outer heat shrink sheath first? I'd like to prove the wires are broken before I start to cut away at the sheath. I just ordered some cheapish TORX bits since I don;t have the T20 and T40.

Reason is that I have car under extended warranty with a £100 excess. Happy to save that £100 excess if I can by doing this job myself. I have soldering iron, heat shrink and gun etc already.
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The post from “avidlemus” a few posts above yours stated this was the case, easy enough to have a look I’d have thought?
Rob
 
On my car left failure the boot was cycling, right failure simply wouldn't pull down.
I think it depends which wire of the three breaks first.
Strip back the sheath, cut the wires. Thread in some new sheath and then resolder wires with smaller heat shrink.

Yes, i think if you have the unit off, check both sides.
I think if your a diy'er, do some preemptive maintenance, take off and check before it fails.
BMW should have called back.

But the way the wires here and roof break makes me wonder if they were sabotaged at the factory.
 
Ok, so I changed my mind again. I took the mechanism out of the boot and removed the two connectors as mentioned in this thread, carefully stripped the outer sheath back to reveal the three wires inside. In my case the wires were OK switch end to connector end. I took it to BMW on extended warranty, they changed the whole mechanism and some connector blocks. It now works perfectly.
 
…so, my boot light has stopped working (bulb is good) but soft latch is working fine. Is this a sign of impending doom? Anyone know if there’s a fuse specifically for the boot light?
 
myredzed said:
…so, my boot light has stopped working (bulb is good) but soft latch is working fine.
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In general, this is independant.
One of the three wires on the left microswitch is for the boot light, one is ground and the third one is for softclose.
If only the wire of the bulb is broken, the boot light does not work, the soft close still works fine.

This can be easily checked on the cuircuit plan.
 
RobbiZ4 said:
myredzed said:
…so, my boot light has stopped working (bulb is good) but soft latch is working fine.
Click to expand...

In general, this is independant.
One of the three wires on the left microswitch is for the boot light, one is ground and the third one is for softclose.
If only the wire of the bulb is broken, the boot light does not work, the soft close still works fine.

This can be easily checked on the cuircuit plan.
Click to expand...

Thanks Robbi. I don't have a wiring diagram but sounds like it's worth getting into the wiring loom and checking all 3 wires on both sides.
 
myredzed said:
[...]but sounds like it's worth getting into the wiring loom and checking all 3 wires on both sides.
Click to expand...
Correct. In most cases the missing light indicates a first broken wire on the left. You have to cut the black hose for about 1 inch.
 
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