Finally, had some time to install my Boot Opening switch on my Z4 E89 28i.
Here are the steps i took to complete same. May not be the same for every model. I Take no responsibility for the instructions, This is my effort and may help others to do the same.
Tools needed
Torx bit to remove the Panel in the driver footwell.
Pliers, snips
Soldering iron
Small heatshrink
Sharp Blade
Insulation tape
Automotive wire.
Parts needed
BMW Genuine Wiring Bushing Contact 0 2-0 5 Mmâ² 61130005201 from Lloyds Carlisle BMW via ebay page. This is used to get the signal to the CAS module.
5 SERIES / BOOT LID OPENER SWITCH WITH PLUG 6921846 - ebay. Standard Item - Important to find one with the plug and wiring as easier to connect to. REALOEM Link item number 5
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/show...015-E89-BMW-Z4_28i&diagId=61_2448#61319200316
- Flexible body of a 15 year old, which i do not have
- Great eyesight, good flashlight.
- Lots of Patience if doing this for the first time.
NOTE:
Remove the earth lead from the battery
- Lift steering wheel to its highest position to get as much space as possible
- Remove 3 Torx screws from Black panel in order to remove the Cover and access the wiring behind the dashboard, In order to remove the footwell cover entirely, 3 further steps are required,
- Remove the Bluetooth Module,
- Remove the Speaker cable for Buzzers/Dong
- Disconnect power cable from Footwell light.
This is where it gets confusing and took me a while to get my bearing. I managed to squeeze into the footwell on my back to view what was up there first hand with a torch.
The first module and cable bank you see is the Footwell Module. It has 2*51 pin plugs.
The CAS Module (A149A) you are looking for is Piggy Back onto the footwell module but is recessed so unable to see until you remove the 2 * 51 plugs from the Footwell module. These can be removed by pressing a little plastic spring at the top of the plug and sliding the locking lever to the side. They remove easily
Having disconnected the plugs for the Footwell module, I could see the 41 pin connector X13376 for the CAS (A149A). Same process as above to remove this plug. There is also a Ribbon connector X10318 which I think feeds to the Dash but this does not need to be removed.
you also need to remove the cover from the X13776 plug in order to insert the new connector into PIN location 39. This slides out from one side.
Refer to
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...nits-modules/a149a-car-access-system/BtXFbKuT for the PIN definition of the X13376
Refer to X13376 connector layout schema at
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...ors/connectors-from-x1/x13376-x13376/CTVJiEMv
Refer to
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive28i-roa/CTBq4FXm for the Switch connector
On my switch, Pins 1, 2, 3 have connection,
Pin 1 is 12 V
Pin 2 is Ground
Pin 3 is FEM signal which connects to the CAS Plug position 39. (using the BMW Genuine Wiring Bushing Contact 0 2-0 5 Mmâ² 61130005201 from Lloyds Carlisle BMW) See below
I used the +12V and GND from the X13376 connector to connect to my switch.
12V at PIN 34
Ground at PIN 12
FEM signal from Pin 39 (This is the signal back to the CAS to trigger the boot latch to open.
- I Inserted the new Pigtail from BMW Carlisle into location 39 on the X13376 and connected this to PIN 3 on my Switch
- I attached my 12 V from PIN 34 to pin 1 on the Switch
- I attached my Ground PIN 12 to Pin 2 on the switch
How you connect to the cable loom at X13376 is your own preference, I spliced and soldered/insulated each connection. My Preference.
I used a meter to ensure connectivety to the switch before reconnecting.
In reverse order
- Reassemble the cover and Reconnect X13376 to the CAS Module
- Reconnect both connectors to the footwell module
- Re attach the GND Lead to the Battery
- TEST, TEST, TEST and all going well, IT WILL WORK
- Re attach the Bluetooth, Speaker and Power cables to the Footwell and re attach.
Nurse your back and Have a beer or two
Lessons learnt
Would have been great to have found alternate 12v switched source with ignition, The LED in the switch is on constantly. It is so low in power/visibility, I hope it will not create problems with power drain. If it does I can remove as the FEM signal is a GROUND Connection so no power is needed. It would also have been good to access the ambient light power but the connection to this is under the passenger floor and other web articles have advised against.
Great article from RobbiZ4 on
https://www.zroadster.com/forum/thr...raumoeffnung-fehlt.120577/page-2#post-2745359
Take pictures next time......
be safe..