Boot luggage cover fallen apart
- Thread starter Big Bad Boris
- Start date
Scotland 🏴
Ebay delivered the countersunk bolts and nylocs this morning in the recommended sizes and with a little careful drilling and screwing looks like I am back in business 
. Seems pretty secure initially, but will see how it goes and maybe add some superglue to the mix if it does loosen over time. The other side seems to be pretty solid…so have left well alone for now.
Thanks to Andy, Pete and Robbi for their help and suggestions on solving this one relatively painlessly.
. Seems pretty secure initially, but will see how it goes and maybe add some superglue to the mix if it does loosen over time. The other side seems to be pretty solid…so have left well alone for now. Thanks to Andy, Pete and Robbi for their help and suggestions on solving this one relatively painlessly.
Mines just gone :x
I’ll be using all the information from this thread going for countersunk Allen option
A question for those that have done this …the holes you drilled - were they where the plastic clipped together & if not did you need to drill holes through the parcels shelf as well? I assume you would have to?
Cheers
I’ll be using all the information from this thread going for countersunk Allen option
A question for those that have done this …the holes you drilled - were they where the plastic clipped together & if not did you need to drill holes through the parcels shelf as well? I assume you would have to?
Cheers
PointedMarlin said:
Martin, should just be the brackets that need drilled as the holes should already be in the shelf as per BBB’s 2nd picture
So I might be being a little thick here but I’m not actually looking at it in front of me but I’m assuming the best was to drill is essentially from inside the 2 pieces outwards using the plastic as a guide point for drilling then the m5 25mm bolts should just slide through the holes that pre exist in the Paracelsus shelf
Well once I’d got home I took both pieces inside to have a good look. I suspect it had been superglued previously as it just looked to have that whiteish faded glue effect. So I have glued it as a temporary fix with gorilla glue - best superglue I’ve ever used - & will buy some countersunk bolts as a back up option for when it goes again.
PointedMarlin said:
It looks to me as though it should be possible to produce a 3D model of these for printing. If you're happy to send me your broken cover I could take detailed measurements and see what I can come up with. Obviously the two halves would need to be joined together using three countersink head bolts, but it may be possible (depending on the thickness of the top) to rebate the holes and conceal the bolt heads with flush plastic covers.
Is the other right cover a mirror image of the broken left one?
Is the other right cover a mirror image of the broken left one?
[ref]Conrod[/ref], I suspect if you could accurately 3D print an unbroken one then you wouldn’t need to bolt them.
As I explored how mine fitted together it seemed to be a two part process.
The top piece clips into the bottom piece at the back behind the bar (or the other way round I can’t remember) through essentially hooking itself together in a through, under & up motion whilst simultaneously the top piece secures to the bottom piece with three bits of plastic that clip into each other.
This secures the unit until it breaks.
As I explored how mine fitted together it seemed to be a two part process.
The top piece clips into the bottom piece at the back behind the bar (or the other way round I can’t remember) through essentially hooking itself together in a through, under & up motion whilst simultaneously the top piece secures to the bottom piece with three bits of plastic that clip into each other.
This secures the unit until it breaks.
Our 3D solution. Have a look at the following thread:
https://www-zroadster-com.translate.goog/forum/threads/verdeckklappe-im-kofferraum.70643/post-2750909?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=ajax,nv,elem
Mine is successfuly in use since about 3 years.
The user "faulsocke" is the owner of the 3D file.
https://www-zroadster-com.translate.goog/forum/threads/verdeckklappe-im-kofferraum.70643/post-2750909?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=ajax,nv,elem
Mine is successfuly in use since about 3 years.
The user "faulsocke" is the owner of the 3D file.
At the summit of the picturesque fens
All the 3d printiing bollox aside. Three machine screws and nuts seem to do the trick!
I am more interested in why a broken plastic hinge on the shelf would stop the boot lid from closing (from the original post)? I am presuming the rear window panel and roof panel sit on the shelf when stowed and are controlled by hydraulic rams, with the microswitches making signalling the next stage.
Thinking about it logically, do the microswitches for the boot stowing have an "over stow" switch (best way I can explain what I mean)?
I am more interested in why a broken plastic hinge on the shelf would stop the boot lid from closing (from the original post)? I am presuming the rear window panel and roof panel sit on the shelf when stowed and are controlled by hydraulic rams, with the microswitches making signalling the next stage.
Thinking about it logically, do the microswitches for the boot stowing have an "over stow" switch (best way I can explain what I mean)?
Yes, the left one can be repaired with screws.Pondrew said:
But the right one always breaks down in several parts due to a completely different issue compared to the left.
In addition, on many Z4 one or both broken parts are missing and require a complete replacemement => 3D printing is a valuable option.
To be honest, this is the next Z4 rumor!Pondrew said:
There is an additional hall sensor in the bottom of the boot, that checks the position of the luggage cover. If it's not closed, the roof will not start to move.
Problem with bracket is bad design and too little plastic to support the loads.
The bracket is designed to hold the cover in the correct position for it to lock in place and make the connection between metal plate on the left and hall switch. Otherwise it would be all floppy and a pain to line up.
The brackets break because if people are a bit too aggressive pulling out the protector it puts a point load on the little pins which are trying to hold the lid in the correct position. Then puts a splitting load on the plastic.
Something that looked good on a 3D cad system designed by a graduate, instead of being designed by a Victorian forge master.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLwqy7mabYQ
The bracket is designed to hold the cover in the correct position for it to lock in place and make the connection between metal plate on the left and hall switch. Otherwise it would be all floppy and a pain to line up.
The brackets break because if people are a bit too aggressive pulling out the protector it puts a point load on the little pins which are trying to hold the lid in the correct position. Then puts a splitting load on the plastic.
Something that looked good on a 3D cad system designed by a graduate, instead of being designed by a Victorian forge master.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLwqy7mabYQ