Boot Closed Micro Switch Replacement After thoughts...

javis20

Active member
Hershey, PA USA
Here are my after thoughts on the replacement process on a 2011 E89..

1. Micro switches are 2.7k ohms, when actuated 560 ohms. They are not pulsed, as some one suggested.
2. Micro switches are not polarity sensitive. They have the same resistance in either direction.
3. I used a Craftsman 1/4" drive socket set with regular and deep 13mm sockets and a short extension.
4. No need to remove boot carpeting. I removed enough pop pins to pull back carpet/trim to get access to the three nuts.
5. Marking the nut locations. I found the paint pen makes a mess. A metal scribe was much better.
6. Removing micro switches. Robbi's drill out method is the best. Quick and easy.
7. Micro switch plug disassembly was a time consuming pain. On my 2011, the sensor plug is not compatible with the harness connector. Should have just cut the new switches plug off and soldered it to the existing switches plug.

Convertible top is working perfectly now. Defective switch was on the left, but I replaced both sides.
 
javis20 said:
Here are my after thoughts on the replacement process on a 2011 E89..

1. Micro switches are 2.7k ohms, when actuated 560 ohms. They are not pulsed, as some one suggested.
2. Micro switches are not polarity sensitive. They have the same resistance in either direction.
3. I used a Craftsman 1/4" drive socket set with regular and deep 13mm sockets and a short extension.
4. No need to remove boot carpeting. I removed enough pop pins to pull back carpet/trim to get access to the three nuts.
5. Marking the nut locations. I found the paint pen makes a mess. A metal scribe was much better.
6. Removing micro switches. Robbi's drill out method is the best. Quick and easy.
7. Micro switch plug disassembly was a time consuming pain. On my 2011, the sensor plug is not compatible with the harness connector. Should have just cut the new switches plug off and soldered it to the existing switches plug.

Convertible top is working perfectly now. Defective switch was on the left, but I replaced both sides.

Thanks for your update..can you pop around and do mine now pls?

All parts and tools are available here.. :thumbsup:
 
javis20 said:
5. Marking the nut locations. I found the paint pen makes a mess. A metal scribe was much better.
I take a white or silver Edding pen.
javis20 said:
[...]
7. Micro switch plug disassembly was a time consuming pain. On my 2011, the sensor plug is not compatible with the harness connector. Should have just cut the new switches plug off and soldered it to the existing switches plug.
Well, I do the following if the new plugs are incompatible to avoid soldering:
- pinout the two pins of the OLD plug with a very small screwdriver
- cut the NEW black housings to remove the upper oval on the first step, then cut out until you can remove the pink plate
- pinout the two pins of the NEW plug with a very small screwdriver
- remove the green rubbers from each NEW pin by twisting and pulling it back
- re-crimp the "strain relief tongue" (is that the correct wording?) by a crimping tool
- put the 2 NEW pins into the old housing (black or white), orientation doesn't matter for these switches
 
Robbi, that's exactly what I did. However, it would be much quicker to cut, solder and cover with shrink tube.
 
javis20 said:
Robbi, that's exactly what I did. However, it would be much quicker to cut, solder and cover with shrink tube.
That is correct, but it looks like OEM.
 
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