BMW Z4 E89 3.Oi 2011 - Water Ingress but no leaks
- Thread starter wu_swordsman
- Start date
No, there aren't.Busaboyjd said:
Source of water mostly is/are
- wrongly mounted tail light clusters
- dirt and mud between the body and the rear light clusters as intended drains
- rear ventilations (left&right, 64226909340) on 2009/2010 Z4
- and at least the already named top rubber seals in rare cases (only after very heavy rains)
Rear ventilations:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LM51-EUR-01-2010-E89-BMW-Z4_30i&mg=64&sg=05&diagId=64_1713&q=64226909340
Very, very important to not blow up a new fuse box again!RobbiZ4 said:
Chippie said:
That was the issue with my car. Seal was split in two places. You can replace the seal (expensive) or repair it. He is my fix.
https://youtu.be/-0LUeMhHwWw
Some suggested gluing after inserting the foam filler. I wouldn't, because after a few years the foam gradually compresses. You want to be able to easily replace it.
@RobbiZ4,
I could not say either way if the dealer knew it was taking this much water in without the service history (which they promised, and I have requested on at least 5 occasions and emails). I would guess it was known as they had an extensive list of serviced items before the sale including a new battery, and as you point out, there is a LOT of corrosion and rust on the terminals of the fused distro block.
The great news is @RobbiZ4, @Smartbear, @Chippie, and @Javis20; you helped me get my new-to-me car to a functional state. Thanks to your excellent advice, RobbiZ4, I found the motor with some water; you saved me a bag full of money here in the US ($4800.00 dealer price and $700.00 remanufactured)!!! You Rock!
I purchased the Salmon solenoids at the local dealer and ordered the red fused-distro box, vents, rear-light gaskets, top fender gaskets, and a new foam box for the hydraulic unit. I cleaned and checked the continuity of the existing red distro box, installed the solenoids, and re-assembled the hydraulic unit's drive motor and the top functions as before.
I wrapped the hydraulic unit in a bath towel and took the car for a spirited ride last night and did have a minimal amount of water reappear, I will continue the drying process today since I can now get the trim parts out that required the deck lid to pivot backward.
RobbiZ4, I purchased the car as-is based on the years and 163k miles of used - no warranty; this means I would have to hire an Attorney to try to get relief from the dealer if they do not do it from the leverage of a damaged reputation; they are large with 200 locations (Google reviews can be powerful).
Now here is what you all already know; this car is wonderful to drive. I feel like I have one of my old 280's back, only nice! and the GT6s and TR6s never felt like this car (I am telling my age now). I have multiple decades of professional experience in the Automobile business and have driven hundreds of cars, and I am very pleased; this car drives like it has 20k miles on it. The new tires I installed last week are great, and it looks wonderful (235/40R18 and 265/35/R18 Potenza RE980AS on new BMW 276 style 8" and 8.5").
Thank you all so much for helping me through this water issue, I will try to reproduce the leak when I can get all the interior trim removed from the trunk and I get the replacement parts that were ordered.
I could not say either way if the dealer knew it was taking this much water in without the service history (which they promised, and I have requested on at least 5 occasions and emails). I would guess it was known as they had an extensive list of serviced items before the sale including a new battery, and as you point out, there is a LOT of corrosion and rust on the terminals of the fused distro block.
The great news is @RobbiZ4, @Smartbear, @Chippie, and @Javis20; you helped me get my new-to-me car to a functional state. Thanks to your excellent advice, RobbiZ4, I found the motor with some water; you saved me a bag full of money here in the US ($4800.00 dealer price and $700.00 remanufactured)!!! You Rock!
I purchased the Salmon solenoids at the local dealer and ordered the red fused-distro box, vents, rear-light gaskets, top fender gaskets, and a new foam box for the hydraulic unit. I cleaned and checked the continuity of the existing red distro box, installed the solenoids, and re-assembled the hydraulic unit's drive motor and the top functions as before.
I wrapped the hydraulic unit in a bath towel and took the car for a spirited ride last night and did have a minimal amount of water reappear, I will continue the drying process today since I can now get the trim parts out that required the deck lid to pivot backward.
RobbiZ4, I purchased the car as-is based on the years and 163k miles of used - no warranty; this means I would have to hire an Attorney to try to get relief from the dealer if they do not do it from the leverage of a damaged reputation; they are large with 200 locations (Google reviews can be powerful).
Now here is what you all already know; this car is wonderful to drive. I feel like I have one of my old 280's back, only nice! and the GT6s and TR6s never felt like this car (I am telling my age now). I have multiple decades of professional experience in the Automobile business and have driven hundreds of cars, and I am very pleased; this car drives like it has 20k miles on it. The new tires I installed last week are great, and it looks wonderful (235/40R18 and 265/35/R18 Potenza RE980AS on new BMW 276 style 8" and 8.5").
Thank you all so much for helping me through this water issue, I will try to reproduce the leak when I can get all the interior trim removed from the trunk and I get the replacement parts that were ordered.
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Busaboyjd said:
Perfect!
Be happy with the car from now on.
f the roof worked fine when you got the car 2 months ago, then the dealer or any warranty is out of responsibility. I would not invest more digging into it's history, as you've solved already this issue.
A final hint:
Place a plastic bag around the new pump's foam to protect it from further water. Not around the pump, but the foam!
BTW,
Interesting black "tool" lying above the red fuse box.
Have you lifted the trim in the corners, especially the right corner to check for water.
We have said many times, now dry, place a ring of tissues around the battery box area, see which side water might be entering.
In fact lay it all over the boot floor, without the trim.
We have said many times, now dry, place a ring of tissues around the battery box area, see which side water might be entering.
In fact lay it all over the boot floor, without the trim.
I have removed the gray trim where I am able. The tool box had water in it but was dusty dry under and the padding was totally dry. The right side had a slight evidence of moisture on the bottom of the convertible top module. The printed circuit board was completely dry.
I am challenged by getting the styrofoam box out. Is there instructions for disassembly of the trim?
Thank you
I am challenged by getting the styrofoam box out. Is there instructions for disassembly of the trim?
Thank you
Well, that's a bit tricky.Busaboyjd said:
You have to cut several zip ties to be able to remove the harnesses after unplugging all the ECUs (3 or 4).
Even then it's not so easy going, but worth to do.
If done, check if there are traces of water, dust or sand coming down from the vents.
There are small channels in the body through which the water from these outer spaces can get to the battery.
Wow, this was a substantial amount of work.
I am grateful for the assistance from the forum members and RobbiZ4, your assistance was perfect.
I found that the 3rd Brake light housing was loose; this was not the root cause of this particular incident, but I could easily have let water into my car if it was washed at an automated car wash or sprayed water at the brake light with a garden hose.
The seals on the top edge of the fender were in bad shape, and they appear to be an intentionally inexpensive and easily replaced maintenance item
The seals on the tail lights were where I found the water intrusion. The light assemblies have one less stud than there are holes to mount it. It was obvious the original lights had three studs, there was the outline of the seal around the mounting hole. The placement of this mounting hole is as if it is at the bottom of a funnel with the shape of the gasket on the light; it will send the water to the hole.
I used heavy waterproof tape and taped the hole from both sides after cleaning the area of ALL dirt and any coating. On one side of the car, the gasket was not fully inserted through the body, which could have been another area for a leak.
Per your great advice, I covered the new foam box with a heavy plastic bag to prevent any possible future exposure of water to the roof motor.
J
I am grateful for the assistance from the forum members and RobbiZ4, your assistance was perfect.
I found that the 3rd Brake light housing was loose; this was not the root cause of this particular incident, but I could easily have let water into my car if it was washed at an automated car wash or sprayed water at the brake light with a garden hose.
The seals on the top edge of the fender were in bad shape, and they appear to be an intentionally inexpensive and easily replaced maintenance item
The seals on the tail lights were where I found the water intrusion. The light assemblies have one less stud than there are holes to mount it. It was obvious the original lights had three studs, there was the outline of the seal around the mounting hole. The placement of this mounting hole is as if it is at the bottom of a funnel with the shape of the gasket on the light; it will send the water to the hole.
I used heavy waterproof tape and taped the hole from both sides after cleaning the area of ALL dirt and any coating. On one side of the car, the gasket was not fully inserted through the body, which could have been another area for a leak.
Per your great advice, I covered the new foam box with a heavy plastic bag to prevent any possible future exposure of water to the roof motor.
J
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I've just discovered I have the exact same problem - water pooling in the battery and pump compartment.
Fortunately there was only about 1 cm in mine, which I discovered when the battery low light came on; the pump foam was soaked at the bottom but pump dry.
How did you guys drain the water out- is there a drain plug in the battery compartment at all or do I need to remove the battery and pump and sponge it out manually?
Next up I'm trying to find my leak- this thread has been very helpful as a guide - thanks all.
Fortunately there was only about 1 cm in mine, which I discovered when the battery low light came on; the pump foam was soaked at the bottom but pump dry.
How did you guys drain the water out- is there a drain plug in the battery compartment at all or do I need to remove the battery and pump and sponge it out manually?
Next up I'm trying to find my leak- this thread has been very helpful as a guide - thanks all.
I've post this before, but heres a picture and a video that might help someone with the "top seal" issue. This is showing water ingress coming under the seal. It drops down onto the interior trim and then goes underneath the tool box (left hand side) or electronics (right hand side), without it being obvious its coming in unless you remove the trim from the boot and monitor any water ingress.. take the whole trim off and reseal (I used tiger seal).
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_ZEG30qHdct8ml9EmOqUp97L4-KhDquA/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_ZEG30qHdct8ml9EmOqUp97L4-KhDquA/view?usp=sharing
basically the top seal comes off, there are two torq screws on each side which allow you to completely remove it. then rake out all the old sealant. put back sealant where it came out (basically its all the way along, and particularly on the flat ends). Here's one sideBusaboyjd said:
