BMW Z4 e85 e86 Window Regulator Repair Kit

[srhutch]

Half way through doing mine.

Do you need to drill the five rivets out?

Yes, but they aren't traditional rivets, they are like an extruded tube which slides into the plastic and the edges are pressed over, they drill out easily and I just used a sharp metal chisel to cut the remains flush with the mechanism. Will make sense when you see them.

Mike

I can see them as its out of the car. Have put the car in the garage now while I have to go out and get some nuts and bolts.

 

[srhutch]

It's done, bugger of a job first time round and think doing the final spool always will be. Whatever I did the cable always seemed too short or too long. Eventually all the planets aligned though and it slipped in. Bit of a job getting the window back in, but having done it once now should be easier.

Things to note.

You will need a Torx Set with a bit as large as a T45, not a T40 as per some videos.
You will need an 8mm drill bit and drill to remove the rivets.
You will need 5 x M6 Nuts/Bolts to replace the rivets. These from ScrewFix worked a treat and didn't need cutting down.

Also some lithium grease for the slider and normal grease for the spool are advisable.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-roofing-bolts-bright-zinc-plated-m6-x-20mm-10-pack/5213j

Also after removing the membrane I reconnected the airbag and battery. This meant I could operate the window if required to get it in the right position etc. You then only need to disconnect the battery again when you are putting the membrane back.

 

[Mr Whippy]

Does anyone have the TIS/PDF or any documentation on this?

I entrusted mine to a local garage. The glass broke after he fixed it, but the replacement part now fitted is sat ~ 5mm too far forward I'd say.

Rather than leave the car any longer with him I'll just correct this myself, now all the hard work is *hopefully* done.


How do you adjust it forward/backwards? Relatively trivially with it all in place and the door innards off I hope?


Cheers

Dave

 

[Sen07]

Sorry for posting on this existing old thread, however my issue is relevant.

Should I try the window regulator repair kit if experiencing the following issue.

Haven’t been in my z4 for about 2 weeks. Went out today lowered window halfway and eventually all the way, tried pressing the switch to go up which wouldn’t do anything (up or down) passenger side fine.

After much switch pressing it eventually went up. I’m scared to use the switch again if it does the same thing. No bangs from the door or anything like that. Window Switch seems intermittent.
Also when I was doing the switch pressing, I noticed on an occasion when pressing up the window went down.

Would anyone recommend the first thing I try is the regulator repair kit?

Thanks

 

[tug]

When the window does move intermittently, is it smooth without any grating/grinding sound? If it does then its not the regulator. It sounds more like a faulty switch.

If it is the regulator i wouldn't bother with the cheap repair kit. Its almost impossible to achieve perfection.

 

[Corrie747]

It's done, bugger of a job first time round and think doing the final spool always will be. Whatever I did the cable always seemed too short or too long. Eventually all the planets aligned though and it slipped in. Bit of a job getting the window back in, but having done it once now should be easier.

Things to note.

You will need a Torx Set with a bit as large as a T45, not a T40 as per some videos.
You will need an 8mm drill bit and drill to remove the rivets.
You will need 5 x M6 Nuts/Bolts to replace the rivets. These from ScrewFix worked a treat and didn't need cutting down.

Also some lithium grease for the slider and normal grease for the spool are advisable.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-roofing-bolts-bright-zinc-plated-m6-x-20mm-10-pack/5213j

Also after removing the membrane I reconnected the airbag and battery. This meant I could operate the window if required to get it in the right position etc. You then only need to disconnect the battery again when you are putting the membrane back.

I ended up plugging the mechanism back into the electrics, to get the wire to jump off the cams and back onto the pulleys. Just couldn’t move the sliders enough. It seems ok and there’s little play in the two tensioning springs where it connects back into the spool. Still to fit the unit back in, but have sound deadening to fit first and a set of door speakers on order.

 

[Stwoshy]

Hi, my window only goes up and down about 2 inches. It makes a horrible screeching noise whilst doing this. Does it sound like window regulator? If I take the airbag off can I re connect battery To use car whilst waiting for new regulator to arrive/ or to try fix old One with kit. Thanks

 

[Ewazix]

Hi, my window only goes up and down about 2 inches. It makes a horrible screeching noise whilst doing this. Does it sound like window regulator? If I take the airbag off can I re connect battery To use car whilst waiting for new regulator to arrive/ or to try fix old One with kit. Thanks

Yes that sound is typical of the regulator mashing itself ready to fail. I suppose you could run around with no door card, airbag or window but you will generate an airbag fault light that will need resetting later. I had a local indi replace mine with a BMW regulator about ten years ago, mainly because previous attempts to fix frame-less window mechanisms on other cars were such a bugger. Mis-alignment and binding are common and can easily lead to broken glass! Also a lot of patients will be needed with new cable and if you read the many posts on the forum several people have given up.

Good luck and let us know how it goes, maybe introduce yourself on the newbies thread when you get a moment

 

[JimRob]

Hi, didn't want to create another new thread on this so thought I'd jump in here.

My window will not go up or down, I can here the relay click when pressing button but no noise from motor. I have taken door card off etc, but as I can't drop the window to access the torx bolts I can't remove the regulator. Any ideas of how I proceed? I bought the cable repair kit but feeling around the regulator the cable seems in good condition, so I presumr its the motor??

Any help would be appreciated..

Cheers,

Jim

 

[Ironcouch]

Just wondering if you figured this out. I have the same issue. I cannot move the window to access the torx head bolt.

 

[dzefer]

Whatever I did the cable always seemed too short or too long.

same situation here, any idea how you finally did it?

 

[dzefer]

Update: the strange thing is I can only make it work when I wind up the final spoon as per picture - the cable heavily touches the plastic on its sides as it moves (and the mechanism moves window oposite way up/down, obviously). If I wind it up as it should be - see the screenshot from YT video with black plastic part - the cable is either too loose or too short. I am really stuck with this. Any help? Thanks

 

[srhutch]

Whatever I did the cable always seemed too short or too long.

same situation here, any idea how you finally did it?

Can’t remember to be fair. Did a second one a couple of years later and got it right pretty much first time.

 

[dzefer]

thanks, I have already made it work. But I had to cut about 3 cm from each end of the cable. Window goes full way up and down, I have really no clue why it did not fit.

 

[sparkypenguin]

Hi all,

Hoping someone can answer my question. I am in the process of fitting a new cable on my drivers door window. I have completed all but have not fitted the mechanism back onto the car yet as the cable seems very, very tight. Is this normal? I have attached an image of the springs to hopefully show how much tension has been applied. Any thoughts appreciated.

 

[srhutch]

Hi all,

Hoping someone can answer my question. I am in the process of fitting a new cable on my drivers door window. I have completed all but have not fitted the mechanism back onto the car yet as the cable seems very, very tight. Is this normal? I have attached an image of the springs to hopefully show how much tension has been applied. Any thoughts appreciated.

I see no image :?

 

[dzefer]

Hi all,

Hoping someone can answer my question. I am in the process of fitting a new cable on my drivers door window. I have completed all but have not fitted the mechanism back onto the car yet as the cable seems very, very tight. Is this normal? I have attached an image of the springs to hopefully show how much tension has been applied. Any thoughts appreciated.

no image as well...

to the tension - when I repaired mine, I had the problem of too short/too long cable. I tried to use it when the fitment was really tight but the window motor was not able to move the mechanism more than few cm. So the springs must be somewhere in the middle and you must be able to move it by your hand, otherwise it will not work.

 

[sparkypenguin]

Hi,

Thanks for replies and not sure why image did not attach, hopefully here it is showing both springs well compressed.....

dzefer - I did see your previous post where you say you had to cut 3cm from each side, however I would have thought that the cable would be supplied at the correct length and yours is the only post I have seen that mentions having to cut it. Not sure if it makes a difference but is yours a soft top or coupe?

srhutch - You mentioned in your post that it seemed either too short or too long but eventually it just worked, any idea how you aligned the planets?

Also does anyone know what the purpose of the top white plastic part is? The bit that has teeth inside and the clip to keep it compressed. I cannot think of what purpose it serves.

 

[dzefer]

is yours a soft top or coupe?

Mine is softtop, but I don`t think it`s important. And this is exactly how it looked when I forced it around the mechanism wheels without cutting those 2x3 cm. Those springs soften the movement at the ends of window travel, so I think they must be able to squeeze.

 

[sparkypenguin]

So I took the mechanism back to bits and took 1 turn of cable off the spool and then reassembled. Now the 2 springs have zero compression and the cable is far to slack. It looks like dzefer's method of cutting 3cm from each end may may solve the issue but surely the cable etc should just fit? I've added photos showing springs and cable tension (or lack of it). Been on for about 8hrs in total now and thinking I must have made some basic mistake . Help please.