BMW E89 Audio Systems and Upgrades

[Felixlamb]

Awesome write up and very informative! I (unfortunately) have the shoddy base system in my Zed and I've also noticed how frontally biased the system is. To bump up the sound of the rear speakers and to give a little bit of surround I shifted the balance slightly to the back using the radio unit, but of course that has disproportionately decreased the volume of the front speakers. Is there any way to increase the volume of the rear speakers without taking such a massive volume hit from the front ones?

 

[Anonymous]

Awesome write up and very informative! I (unfortunately) have the shoddy base system in my Zed and I've also noticed how frontally biased the system is. To bump up the sound of the rear speakers and to give a little bit of surround I shifted the balance slightly to the back using the radio unit, but of course that has disproportionately decreased the volume of the front speakers. Is there any way to increase the volume of the rear speakers without taking such a massive volume hit from the front ones?

Hi there, not really, since the internal DSP / audio circuits are ‘hard coded’ AFAIK , or certainly needs an A grade coder I think you’re stuck ...the rear speaker feed frequency response is limited as well, I believe..

The Eton type speakers, mid range / tweeter in the door, and co-axial in the outboard rear shoulder positions is the simplest options..

After that the other option is a simple two channel amp taking feeds from the front speakers..feeding the rear speakers with the amps onboard level control?

Or two twin channel amps for front n rear with Eton type speakers...?

 

[Argyll Andy]

Awesome write up and very informative! I (unfortunately) have the shoddy base system in my Zed and I've also noticed how frontally biased the system is. To bump up the sound of the rear speakers and to give a little bit of surround I shifted the balance slightly to the back using the radio unit, but of course that has disproportionately decreased the volume of the front speakers. Is there any way to increase the volume of the rear speakers without taking such a massive volume hit from the front ones?

Hi there, not really, since the internal DSP / audio circuits are ‘hard coded’ AFAIK , or certainly needs an A grade coder I think you’re stuck ...the rear speaker feed frequency response is limited as well, I believe..

The Eton type speakers, mid range / tweeter in the door, and co-axial in the outboard rear shoulder positions is the simplest options..

After that the other option is a simple two channel amp taking feeds from the front speakers..feeding the rear speakers with the amps onboard level control?

Or two twin channel amps for front n rear with Eton type speakers...?

Yes very informative and interesting, I’m in the same situation as felixlamb but I’m also 99% sure I’ve also got tweeters behind the wing mirrors (no’s 9&10). I’m coming to this conclusion because when previously looking at it a few weeks ago because I’m disappointed in the sound I was trying to work out what system I’ve got. I covered the grills behind the mirrors and the sound reduced. I’ve just gone out and shone a torch into the grill and can see the central silver circles which looks like there are tweeters in there. I definitely don’t have 7 & 8. The panel behind the seats is completely solid.

Re the advice given above would feeding the rears, 5 & 6, from the existing front feeds bypass the hard coded restrictions in places don’t increase volume to the rears? I know it would remove the fader but given that seems to be pretty pointless anyway or is there a specific reason to go down the amp route?

TIA Andy

 

[Anonymous]

Awesome write up and very informative! I (unfortunately) have the shoddy base system in my Zed and I've also noticed how frontally biased the system is. To bump up the sound of the rear speakers and to give a little bit of surround I shifted the balance slightly to the back using the radio unit, but of course that has disproportionately decreased the volume of the front speakers. Is there any way to increase the volume of the rear speakers without taking such a massive volume hit from the front ones?

Hi there, not really, since the internal DSP / audio circuits are ‘hard coded’ AFAIK , or certainly needs an A grade coder I think you’re stuck ...the rear speaker feed frequency response is limited as well, I believe..

The Eton type speakers, mid range / tweeter in the door, and co-axial in the outboard rear shoulder positions is the simplest options..

After that the other option is a simple two channel amp taking feeds from the front speakers..feeding the rear speakers with the amps onboard level control?

Or two twin channel amps for front n rear with Eton type speakers...?

Yes very informative and interesting, I’m in the same situation as felixlamb but I’m also 99% sure I’ve also got tweeters behind the wing mirrors (no’s 9&10). I’m coming to this conclusion because when previously looking at it a few weeks ago because I’m disappointed in the sound I was trying to work out what system I’ve got. I covered the grills behind the mirrors and the sound reduced. I’ve just gone out and shone a torch into the grill and can see the central silver circles which looks like there are tweeters in there. I definitely don’t have 7 & 8. The panel behind the seats is completely solid.

Re the advice given above would feeding the rears, 5 & 6, from the existing front feeds bypass the hard coded restrictions in places don’t increase volume to the rears? I know it would remove the fader but given that seems to be pretty pointless anyway or is there a specific reason to go down the amp route?

TIA Andy

Hello, unless someone has done an after the car shipped event if you have door tweeters you have either the 676 or 677 amp versions..and hence sub woofers behind the seats..

So it sounds like someone has already twiddled with your audio system, I'm suprised..

You can remove the small plastic tweeter covers with a trim tool to confirm..

Ref feeding rear speakers from the front feeds as well as feeding front speakers:

1) The onboard amp is only 15w per channel so you won't have a lot of go to drive 2 speakers per channel rather than 1
2) Wired in parallel the load the amp sees maybe too low and it could get fried..
3) Wired in series the load the amp sees will be twice as high and teh 15w nominal power per channel will reduce..probably to around 8 watts (guestimate)
4) With a fixed front back ratio you can't adjust any knobs to 'balance' the sound stage

Apart from that its a great idea!

You could try it with some Eton type speakers in series and see?

Alternatively this type of baby will answer your dreams

https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/alpine-bbx-f1200-bbx-power-class-a-b-4-channel-car-amplifier-600w.html?tracking=5e3b93d714794&gclid=CjwKCAjwkPX0BRBKEiwA7THxiEni7758YU5eJJZteXriAAaUeCf1JTQSOGtpVMGAW1_VdEckk3XWsRoCqzMQAvD_BwE

And if you want to purue a 'better' feed for the rear speakers feed the front channels into a pair of these and the poutputs into the 4 channels and you've arrived!

https://www.thompsonsltd.co.uk/products/ry5-pyramid-ry5-rca-phono-y-splitter-leads-audio-splitting-split-cable-femal-male.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwkPX0BRBKEiwA7THxiPPsKWjO5_I05UgyBLy4zTZ4u_YWLMPwXOSZhkz_KHn_aeh3V85lFRoCsRoQAvD_BwE

Plenty of knobology to set up your balance/tone etc!

 

[Argyll Andy]

[/quote]

Hello, unless someone has done an after the car shipped event if you have door tweeters you have either the 676 or 677 amp versions..and hence sub woofers behind the seats..

So it sounds like someone has already twiddled with your audio system, I'm suprised..

You can remove the small plastic tweeter covers with a trim tool to confirm..

Ref feeding rear speakers from the front feeds as well as feeding front speakers:

1) The onboard amp is only 15w per channel so you won't have a lot of go to drive 2 speakers per channel rather than 1
2) Wired in parallel the load the amp sees maybe too low and it could get fried..
3) Wired in series the load the amp sees will be twice as high and teh 15w nominal power per channel will reduce..probably to around 8 watts (guestimate)
4) With a fixed front back ratio you can't adjust any knobs to 'balance' the sound stage

Apart from that its a great idea!

You could try it with some Eton type speakers in series and see?

Alternatively this type of baby will answer your dreams

https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/alpine-bbx-f1200-bbx-power-class-a-b-4-channel-car-amplifier-600w.html?tracking=5e3b93d714794&gclid=CjwKCAjwkPX0BRBKEiwA7THxiEni7758YU5eJJZteXriAAaUeCf1JTQSOGtpVMGAW1_VdEckk3XWsRoCqzMQAvD_BwE

And if you want to purue a 'better' feed for the rear speakers feed the front channels into a pair of these and the poutputs into the 4 channels and you've arrived!

https://www.thompsonsltd.co.uk/products/ry5-pyramid-ry5-rca-phono-y-splitter-leads-audio-splitting-split-cable-femal-male.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwkPX0BRBKEiwA7THxiPPsKWjO5_I05UgyBLy4zTZ4u_YWLMPwXOSZhkz_KHn_aeh3V85lFRoCsRoQAvD_BwE

Plenty of knobology to set up your balance/tone etc!
[/quote]

Thanks for telling me so politely that my idea was p!sh

It’s a long time since I’ve done any stereo installs so apologies in advance for some of the stupid/simple questions coming but I’m genuinely interested in this and would if possible like to improve what’s there without spending a loads, this bloody lockdown is costing me a fortune!

The amp in the link is a 4 channel one, would I install that if only running the rears through it or is that for all? If only running the rears would I just need a 2 channel amp? When looking at this one the same site suggested a ‘might be interested in” and it came up the same one just 2 channel.

Are the adapters/cables needed for all of your options or only if running all speakers through it?

I’m also thinking about changing the head unit to a Kenwood with Bluetooth, streaming, phone calls etc. Will that make any difference to this?

Re my own system, I’ve just gone out and had a look so I am giving you the correct info
Pictures
1 this tweeter is behind the door mirrors. I notice on the back it shows 26.05.16 if this is a date then obviously fitted afterwards as the car’s a 59 plate
2 the wiring going to it. Too tight so can’t see if original
3 rear panel behind the seats - no speakers, grills, cut outs, nothing behind me except the factory ones beneath the seatbelt anchor points so if someone has been playing about with it, it only looks like the tweeters have been added
4 head unit which according to vin decoder is original by the looks of it.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi no worries, not everyone is as sad a bunny as moi..

So it looks like somebody added some tweeters to the front door speakers to get an easy win..

So assuming you have the stripped back basic version your options from here are..

You can fit the 4 channel amp feeding from the front speakers via the y splitters to then feed 4 channels front n back..

Or you can fit a brand new head..if you can get your way around the cosmetic issues in the cabin this works well, you can buy integrated units with plenty of poke thanks to what is called Class D amplifier technology.

You would need to do quite a bit of wiring splicing or find an adapter harness that links the new head input to the existing harness..

I would look at how the tweeters are wired in, they really need a passive crossover to make sure they don’t take too much current, that means a door panel removal..

Is that clear / hope it helps?

 

[Argyll Andy]

Hi no worries, not everyone is as sad a bunny as moi..

So it looks like somebody added some tweeters to the front door speakers to get an easy win..

So assuming you have the stripped back basic version your options from here are..

You can fit the 4 channel amp feeding from the front speakers via the y splitters to then feed 4 channels front n back..

Or you can fit a brand new head..if you can get your way around the cosmetic issues in the cabin this works well, you can buy integrated units with plenty of poke thanks to what is called Class D amplifier technology.

You would need to do quite a bit of wiring splicing or find an adapter harness that links the new head input to the existing harness..

I would look at how the tweeters are wired in, they really need a passive crossover to make sure they don’t take too much current, that means a door panel removal..

Is that clear / hope it helps?

Thanks again, yes it helps greatly. Do you mean something like this? It was one of the very few that came up when I Googled or do you have something better you’d recommend I look at?

https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/dsx-gs80#product_details_default

Before lockdown I’d been into Halfords looking at dash cams and head units and the guy who’s done a few for me before recommend a Sony (a cheaper one than this) and part of the package he’d priced up for me was a new facia and all wiring/adapters/harnesses to keep all my original functionality, MFSW and warning sounds, PDC’s etc is this the harness you’re talking about rather than splicing anything?

If I’m thinking of changing the head unit anyway to get phone and streaming functionality I wouldn’t mind spending a bit more on a set up like this if it would give the same/better results than retro fitting the Alpine amp.

 

[Anonymous]

Hi no worries, not everyone is as sad a bunny as moi..

So it looks like somebody added some tweeters to the front door speakers to get an easy win..

So assuming you have the stripped back basic version your options from here are..

You can fit the 4 channel amp feeding from the front speakers via the y splitters to then feed 4 channels front n back..

Or you can fit a brand new head..if you can get your way around the cosmetic issues in the cabin this works well, you can buy integrated units with plenty of poke thanks to what is called Class D amplifier technology.

You would need to do quite a bit of wiring splicing or find an adapter harness that links the new head input to the existing harness..

I would look at how the tweeters are wired in, they really need a passive crossover to make sure they don’t take too much current, that means a door panel removal..

Is that clear / hope it helps?

Thanks again, yes it helps greatly. Do you mean something like this? It was one of the very few that came up when I Googled or do you have something better you’d recommend I look at?

https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/dsx-gs80#product_details_default

Before lockdown I’d been into Halfords looking at dash cams and head units and the guy who’s done a few for me before recommend a Sony (a cheaper one than this) and part of the package he’d priced up for me was a new facia and all wiring/adapters/harnesses to keep all my original functionality, MFSW and warning sounds, PDC’s etc is this the harness you’re talking about rather than splicing anything?

If I’m thinking of changing the head unit anyway to get phone and streaming functionality I wouldn’t mind spending a bit more on a set up like this if it would give the same/better results than retro fitting the Alpine amp.

Hi the Sony unit works well on paper and I'm sure will sound OK subject to the OE speaker quality..

Assuming the harness etc and interfaces and cosmetic work out fine its a good starting point IMHO

You could always use the sub woofer out option to drive a pair of woofers in the footwells and/or upgrade the base speakers..

If you just have the 4 OE or even Eton type replacemenst the base won't be that strong simply because of their size..

However law of diminishing returns etc so my view would be :

1) Sony unit try that
2) Eton type speakers try that
3) Woofers in footwell and amp using Sony sub out put

IMHO

 

[Argyll Andy]

Hi no worries, not everyone is as sad a bunny as moi..

So it looks like somebody added some tweeters to the front door speakers to get an easy win..

So assuming you have the stripped back basic version your options from here are..

You can fit the 4 channel amp feeding from the front speakers via the y splitters to then feed 4 channels front n back..

Or you can fit a brand new head..if you can get your way around the cosmetic issues in the cabin this works well, you can buy integrated units with plenty of poke thanks to what is called Class D amplifier technology.

You would need to do quite a bit of wiring splicing or find an adapter harness that links the new head input to the existing harness..

I would look at how the tweeters are wired in, they really need a passive crossover to make sure they don’t take too much current, that means a door panel removal..

Is that clear / hope it helps?

Thanks again, yes it helps greatly. Do you mean something like this? It was one of the very few that came up when I Googled or do you have something better you’d recommend I look at?

https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/dsx-gs80#product_details_default

Before lockdown I’d been into Halfords looking at dash cams and head units and the guy who’s done a few for me before recommend a Sony (a cheaper one than this) and part of the package he’d priced up for me was a new facia and all wiring/adapters/harnesses to keep all my original functionality, MFSW and warning sounds, PDC’s etc is this the harness you’re talking about rather than splicing anything?

If I’m thinking of changing the head unit anyway to get phone and streaming functionality I wouldn’t mind spending a bit more on a set up like this if it would give the same/better results than retro fitting the Alpine amp.

Hi the Sony unit works well on paper and I'm sure will sound OK subject to the OE speaker quality..

Assuming the harness etc and interfaces and cosmetic work out fine its a good starting point IMHO

You could always use the sub woofer out option to drive a pair of woofers in the footwells and/or upgrade the base speakers..

If you just have the 4 OE or even Eton type replacemenst the base won't be that strong simply because of their size..

However law of diminishing returns etc so my view would be :

1) Sony unit try that
2) Eton type speakers try that
3) Woofers in footwell and amp using Sony sub out put

IMHO

Thank you, I’ll start having a good looks those options.

I may need to come back to you at a later date if that’s ok.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks again, yes it helps greatly. Do you mean something like this? It was one of the very few that came up when I Googled or do you have something better you’d recommend I look at?

https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/in-car-receivers-players/dsx-gs80#product_details_default

Before lockdown I’d been into Halfords looking at dash cams and head units and the guy who’s done a few for me before recommend a Sony (a cheaper one than this) and part of the package he’d priced up for me was a new facia and all wiring/adapters/harnesses to keep all my original functionality, MFSW and warning sounds, PDC’s etc is this the harness you’re talking about rather than splicing anything?

If I’m thinking of changing the head unit anyway to get phone and streaming functionality I wouldn’t mind spending a bit more on a set up like this if it would give the same/better results than retro fitting the Alpine amp.

Hi the Sony unit works well on paper and I'm sure will sound OK subject to the OE speaker quality..

Assuming the harness etc and interfaces and cosmetic work out fine its a good starting point IMHO

You could always use the sub woofer out option to drive a pair of woofers in the footwells and/or upgrade the base speakers..

If you just have the 4 OE or even Eton type replacemenst the base won't be that strong simply because of their size..

However law of diminishing returns etc so my view would be :

1) Sony unit try that
2) Eton type speakers try that
3) Woofers in footwell and amp using Sony sub out put

IMHO

Thank you, I’ll start having a good looks those options.

I may need to come back to you at a later date if that’s ok.

 

[cosminr86]

Hi!
I got a 23i, 2009, and I want to upgrade the factory audio.
My car have 8 speakers (footweel, midrange and tweeters on the door and midrange on the back).
I bought an audison ap 5.9 amplifier.
Today I had stripped out the boot(and done some sound deadening), but I did'n find an amp. It is possible to be located elsewhere? The rear speaker cables seems to come from the front of the car.

 

[Chippie]

Hi!
I got a 23i, 2009, and I want to upgrade the factory audio.
My car have 8 speakers (footweel, midrange and tweeters on the door and midrange on the back).
I bought an audison ap 5.9 amplifier.
Today I had stripped out the boot(and done some sound deadening), but I did'n find an amp. It is possible to be located elsewhere? The rear speaker cables seems to come from the front of the car.

I think you have the basic 6 speaker unit that doesn’t have an amp, have a read through peters 1st post at the start of this thread, he gives a very good explanation of the different systems fitted and upgrade options

 

[Anonymous]

Hi!
I got a 23i, 2009, and I want to upgrade the factory audio.
My car have 8 speakers (footweel, midrange and tweeters on the door and midrange on the back).
I bought an audison ap 5.9 amplifier.
Today I had stripped out the boot(and done some sound deadening), but I did'n find an amp. It is possible to be located elsewhere? The rear speaker cables seems to come from the front of the car.

As Chippie says..you have the 6 speaker basic system with the amp capablity (15w max per channel) built into the head unit..no external amp..

Audison recommends the AP8.9 unit for your car/version and provides a wiring kit for it..

You may be on your own with the amp you bought, although maybe some of the 8.9 wiring kit could be used?

https://www.audison.eu/spc-source/?y=22&model=13&brand=1&chassis=56&type=3

 

[cosminr86]

I bought the 5.9 for cheap. I will make my own harness, just a bit more work to do. thanks for the info!

 

[Anonymous]

I bought the 5.9 for cheap. I will make my own harness, just a bit more work to do. thanks for the info!

No worries, just be aware that the line level out from the head unit is around 2.5v not 600mv so you don't overdrive the inputs to the amp otherwise you'll get bad distortion, looks like it has high level line inputs which should be ok..

 

[cosminr86]

Yes. It has high level inputs. I was wondering if the footwell speakers have separate channel?

 

[Anonymous]

The footwell speakers are not wired in / don't exist on the 6 speaker system

2 channels drive the door mounted speakers and the two sub woofers are wired in parallel with these two speakers..and two channels drive the rear speakers at shoulder height in the rear side panels

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e89-z4-sdrive20i-roa/wiring-functional-info/body/audio-video-telephone-navigation-most-ring/sound-output/stereo-speaker-system/2dSFzfuN

refers..

 

[Anonymous]

I've take the opportunity to update the details based on working with some owners on their systems and added a few extra details..

 

[cosminr86]

I've take the opportunity to update the details based on working with some owners on their systems and added a few extra details..

There's another alternative to the hu. 10.25" screen android. It uses the line in of original hu. It's somehow plug an play in the middle of the dash (you have to take almost all the dash apart, tough), replacing original screen or the box.

 

[Anonymous]

I've take the opportunity to update the details based on working with some owners on their systems and added a few extra details..

There's another alternative to the hu. 10.25" screen android. It uses the line in of original hu. It's somehow plug an play in the middle of the dash (you have to take almost all the dash apart, tough), replacing original screen or the box.

Hi there, there are a few issues, primarily if the focus is on audio quality then so far these units have had fairly poor critics...

If you want gadgets / gizmos / maps / reversing cams then they offer a lot..

I’ve yet to see one in an E89 install that blends in well with the existing cockpit..maybe you can advise?