BMW E89 Audio Systems and Upgrades

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Another one in a series from moi..comments welcome..

BMW E89 AUDIO SYSTEMS
The E89 audio systems were largely a carry-over from the then normal range of BMW audio systems offered across the BMW/Mini range and reflected the then current packaging. There weren’t many changes over the production run. There were a perplexing number of variations in user options which often results now in second owners not quite able to manage their music in the way they prefer.

There were 3 basic systems, not all were offered in all markets.

Using the Z4 E89 names there were:
BMW Professional Stereo aka BMW Base (not offered in US)
BMW Business Speaker Package aka BMW Hi-Fi aka 676 option
BMW Professional Speaker Package aka BMW Top-Fi aka HK aka Logic 7 aka 677 option

2019-08-28 12.20.59.jpg2019-08-28 12.21.15.jpg676 amp showing 42 pin connector

All versions used two head units that looked like a single ‘DIN’ type panel but were in fact much larger modular boxes that could hold a variety of sub systems including CD player, GPS, hard drive, DAB/Sirius-XM/TV tuners, one version was used for the non-pop up screen version (BMW Professional RAD2) and the pop up screen version (Car Information Computer, CIC aka BMW Professional Navigation).

These were connected optionally to the Bluetooth, USB and 3.5mm jack plugs in the arm rest plus the built in off-board GSM phone /data system (in the boot) and optional user GSM phones, optionally in a cradle in the arm rest.

The on-board disc in the CIC version offered storage for a navigation database, a rights database and a 12GB area for WMA encoded music to be loaded into the system via the central USB port in the armrest and/or CD unit.

Depending on further user purchased options music could be streamed via the USB interface supporting track/artwork using either a 32GB or less USB drive with MP3/WMA/AAC encoded information or an iPhone or similar functioning in iPod mode.

Base level versions had a 3.5mm jack socket in the centre arm rest.

Separate extended Bluetooth options offered similar functionality for Bluetooth connected devices.
Base level Bluetooth does not support music streaming, but aftermarket vendors do offer a software only upgrade.

Playlist support allowed iTunes/WMP playlists to be imported in addition to ones created on-board the car.

The base system had 4x15W, no external amp/DSP, a frequency response of 50Hz-14KHz and had the front two channels heavily biased.

The basse system drove two door mounted speakers of two channels with two subwoofers wired in parallel acroos them, with two rear shoulder position speakers fed by two channels with a marked high freqency cut off.

The reference curve /equalisation was built into the head unit and can be altered with BMW software to the 'hi-fi' flat profile.

The latter two units had off-board DSP/amps rated at 2x40W/4x25W and 2x70W/4x25w respectively with frequency responses of 40Hz-20 KHz and 30 Hz-20KHz. It looks like those were the RMS power figures not the sexy marketing peak figures.

The off-board amp versions had their equalisation / reference curves embedded in the amps themselves, ie the head units provided linear outputs.

The base system drove 6 speakers in the E89, the Hi-Fi drove 11 speakers and the Top-Fi drove 14 speakers as shown in this graphic.

BMWZ4E89Speakers_zps399c634b.gif
A simple way to assess which unit was fitted is to shine a torch into the tweeter speaker area set in next to the A pillar. If there is no tweeter present then the system is a base level version.

Popping the speaker cover of the rear central speaker between the two seats will reveal the two speakers of the 677 version and/or popping the centre speaker cover on the dash will show a separate tweeter if the 677 version is fitted.

Some of the wiring to the channels seemed to be unusual compared to lounge type Hi-Fi set-ups, e.g. on the Hi-Fi version both foot well woofers were driven off one channel. The Hi-Fi version was described as 6 channels but on the E89 the unit drove 8 channels!

Similarly the high end version described as 9 channels drove 10 channels in the E89. The user could access the DSP setup in the 677 but not in the 676 where there were simple fader/tone/balance options only.

The speakers were of different quality levels in the various versions, e.g. the door mid-range was of lower quality in the base version. Digital signal processing (DSP) was heavily used and tailored to compensate for the cabin audio dynamics and the various speakers /amplification attributes.

The speakers all use a BMW mounting hole format that is unique, again an issue if trying to fit non BMW orientated speakers.
Because of the channel mapping and DSP programming, a 676 /677 unit from one BMW model may well not work in an E89 without sophisticated BMW factory tool reprogramming.

Communications between the head units and the 676 amp was via conventional audio cables, the 677 unit used a fibre optical link.

Voltage levels for audio signalling used a BMW ‘standard’ of 2.5volts versus the normal standard of 600mv which can cause issues when fitting alternative amps.

An additional complication arose with the introduction of the N20 engine versions in most markets, the use of BMW’s Active Sound Design (ASD) which was an inline amp/DSP that generated artificial engine sounds into the speaker systems, based on throttle/RPM/top up or down/Sports mode sensors irrespective of whether the radio/CD was turned on or off. In the E89 it is not user possible to defeat/adjust the unit. Removing the unit disables the rest of the audio /amp subsystems.
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ASD unit in N20 versions, box to the left, other box is onboard GSM unit

The ASD also injects noise and distortion into the audio system so ideally needs to be bypassed with any substantial audio upgrade, either by re-routing the relevant wires or by fitting a bypass harness.
https://technicpnp.com/product/asd-bypass-harness/

Audison also now provide an ASD defeat harness at a mcuh cheaper price..£10 ish available in the UK direct.

This system is not related to the mechanical exhaust valve fitted to the N20 variants as well.

AFTERMARKET OPTIONS

There are no simple, cheap options!

Due to the high level of integration into other on-board car subsystems most changes end up either cosmetically or operationally compromised or as expensive upgrades.

The other obvious point is that users are notoriously fickle about their audio preferences and their cosmetic and operational tolerances and predilections. One person’s bass is another’s boom.

Listening to music in an E89 especially top down is a challenging environed for accurate music reproduction!

If you have the 677 version then it’s going to be very expensive (over £2,000) to gain a substantial improvement.

The base version in most people’s estimation is poor and needs upgrading.

Starting at the easiest lowest point.

Some owners have enjoyed noticeable improvements by using BMW Mini door speakers in place of the OE versions. If using a ‘premium’ version of a Mini speaker compared to a base level version in an E89 it’s possible to see how that works. Similarly a higher spec tweeter from a Mini may offer better special imagery as well. Prices for a pair of Mini speakers could be around £25-£50.

Because BMW used their own layout of screw holes and pattern to the speaker frame most standard sized speakers won't line up. There are a number of suppliers who sell adapter rings or the rings and speakers to get around this problem.

Next up is replacing the OE mid-range door /rear speakers and tweeters with OE compatible and tweaked versions from Eton, Audison and Focal which have brought good results. Figure on around £150-£200 for a pair of mid range speakers.

https://www.eton-gmbh.com/en/products/car-hifi/upgrade-audio/bmw-upgrade/

https://www.audison.eu/news/the-perfect-audio-system-upgrade-designed-for-your-bmw/

These are plug and play and work well with the existing 676/677 amps.

There is an issue on the E89 door speakers in that the plastic mounting tray for the speaker that also acts as water shield to top water cooming from the window side to the speaker is to shallow to accomodate the larger magnets of Eton and some other replacement speakers, in this case drilling out the centre is a solution, otherwise the speaker is distorted as its screwed down causing temporary ifnot permanent damage / poor sound..

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The next two stages are either to upgrade the foot well woofers and/or the rear bulkhead subwoofers. With the 676 amp at this stage you will have run out of steam so this upgrade usually goes with new amplifiers too! The foot well woofers usually need custom adapter plates due to the unique nature of these woofers.

Again Eton and others provide almost OE fitment amplifiers, however due to the unique E89 speakers and wiring these fall short on plug n play and need a fair degree of skill and electrical knowledge. The rear sub-woofers are a major physical headache to get to, to replace as the rear bullhead needs to be almost completely dismantled first. Figure on around £350-£400 for subwoofers and £200 for woofers,

The final stage is to replace the OE amp with a more powerful DSP and amp. Again Audison and Audiotec Fischer provide options.
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/amplifiers/up-7bmw

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Match 7 DSP/amp with 7 power amp channels plus 1 extra channel for driving sub woofer amp (of many permutations)

Figure on £600-£1,500 for these amps.

The US supplied Bavsound is a re-branded earlier Audoitec Fischer model..

Again, these are not for the faint hearted as the DSP aspect needs serious work to setup, baseline and adjust, the unique E89 wiring harness means some cutting and shutting for the Audiotec Fischer, the latest Audison version gets around the problem by ignoring the footwell woofers unless you start with the basic car unit in which case they wire them in parallel with another set of speakers..

Some people have tried to simply splice in an off the shelf amp, but because of DSP issues and logic wiring and signal levels these have not always been successful.

A common step in many other cars is replacing the head unit with an off the shelf unit from Alpine/JVC/Pioneer etc,, however as the unit is tailored and non-DIN compliant, plus all the logic and power control is challenging, although there are adapter cables, it’s a brave step for most and cosmetically the car struggles to retain its cabin interior looks.

There are now some Android based units that hold promise,non AFAIK offer a fold down option but there are some that appear to be suitable if you either have already a CIC unit or the folding cubby shelf. Audio quality is open to judjement but gadget score is high!

See.. https://hifimaxnavi.com/

When using signal sources the onboard CD player is the highest quality, followed by the USB fed device assuming the external source is capable..as an aside iPhones have some of the best music playback circuitry around!

USB sticks can be played back from the central armrest USB or devices like iPhones are supported through an iPod look alike interface.

USB artwork and track information is stored internally with the CIC unit.

Bluetooth is next, BMW does not support aptX so compared to CD/USB feed the quality is poorer.

Using USB/Bluetooth allows artwork to be rendered on the CIC screen and playback/track search/ volume control from the steering wheel controls.

Finally for those that have the CIC system you can load music into that unit for playback, it's stored in a poor version of WMA with low bit rate so is the poorest quality.

The 3.5mm jack plug provides a reasonable source but lacks any ability to control the media from the car.

Music can be loaded vis USB or CD into the intenal hard disc of the CIC unit,however storage space is very limited and a very aggressive compression algorrthm is used resulting in poor quality playback.
 
I think I would sell the car before attempting an audio upgrade with all the reading I have done in this subject.

I have the logic 7 system in my Z, and if I spent the money from new on the system I would have personally felt like it was a waste of money. The system lacks lacks clarity and punch, and when you turn the volume up it seems to loose all separation.l and just become noise.

I have owned a fair few cars over my time, from lots of different manufactures, and I must say I have a major soft spot for BMW, and have owned over 25 different ones, but one thing I will say is that BMW do not know how to make a decent stereo system. Whether it’s a base system or top of the range, they are all rubbish.

VW, Audi and Porsche all provide a very good system, even the most basic systems provide a very pleasant tight and controlled sound provided they are not pushed too hard.

Hopefully BMW will up their game one day, as the rest of the car is very much a pleasant machine.
 
Pooltee said:
I think I would sell the car before attempting an audio upgrade with all the reading I have done in this subject.

I have the logic 7 system in my Z, and if I spent the money from new on the system I would have personally felt like it was a waste of money. The system lacks lacks clarity and punch, and when you turn the volume up it seems to loose all separation.l and just become noise.

I have owned a fair few cars over my time, from lots of different manufactures, and I must say I have a major soft spot for BMW, and have owned over 25 different ones, but one thing I will say is that BMW do not know how to make a decent stereo system. Whether it’s a base system or top of the range, they are all rubbish.

VW, Audi and Porsche all provide a very good system, even the most basic systems provide a very pleasant tight and controlled sound provided they are not pushed too hard.

Hopefully BMW will up their game one day, as the rest of the car is very much a pleasant machine.

I agree, my car had the 11 speaker , 676 amp and I thought it was pretty crap..my Volvo XC70 2015 standard audio pissed all over it (technical term) :rofl:
 
Pbondar said:
Pooltee said:
I think I would sell the car before attempting an audio upgrade with all the reading I have done in this subject.

I have the logic 7 system in my Z, and if I spent the money from new on the system I would have personally felt like it was a waste of money. The system lacks lacks clarity and punch, and when you turn the volume up it seems to loose all separation.l and just become noise.

I have owned a fair few cars over my time, from lots of different manufactures, and I must say I have a major soft spot for BMW, and have owned over 25 different ones, but one thing I will say is that BMW do not know how to make a decent stereo system. Whether it’s a base system or top of the range, they are all rubbish.

VW, Audi and Porsche all provide a very good system, even the most basic systems provide a very pleasant tight and controlled sound provided they are not pushed too hard.

Hopefully BMW will up their game one day, as the rest of the car is very much a pleasant machine.

I agree, my car had the 11 speaker , 676 amp and I thought it was pretty crap..my Volvo XC70 2015 standard audio pissed all over it (technical term) :rofl:

It’s crazy isn’t it!

One thing I have noticed with my particular car is there seems to be a lots of panel reverberation, especially from mid range and mainly when raising the volume.

I was wondering how successful it would be and how much benefit sound proofing the entire cabin area. I am talking complete interior removal and sound proofing every panel, plastic and metal. Not sure if this has been done before, but if it has I would be interested to hear the results.
 
Pooltee said:
Pbondar said:
Pooltee said:
I think I would sell the car before attempting an audio upgrade with all the reading I have done in this subject.

I have the logic 7 system in my Z, and if I spent the money from new on the system I would have personally felt like it was a waste of money. The system lacks lacks clarity and punch, and when you turn the volume up it seems to loose all separation.l and just become noise.

I have owned a fair few cars over my time, from lots of different manufactures, and I must say I have a major soft spot for BMW, and have owned over 25 different ones, but one thing I will say is that BMW do not know how to make a decent stereo system. Whether it’s a base system or top of the range, they are all rubbish.

VW, Audi and Porsche all provide a very good system, even the most basic systems provide a very pleasant tight and controlled sound provided they are not pushed too hard.

Hopefully BMW will up their game one day, as the rest of the car is very much a pleasant machine.

I agree, my car had the 11 speaker , 676 amp and I thought it was pretty crap..my Volvo XC70 2015 standard audio pissed all over it (technical term) :rofl:

It’s crazy isn’t it!

One thing I have noticed with my particular car is there seems to be a lots of panel reverberation, especially from mid range and mainly when raising the volume.

I was wondering how successful it would be and how much benefit sound proofing the entire cabin area. I am talking complete interior removal and sound proofing every panel, plastic and metal. Not sure if this has been done before, but if it has I would be interested to hear the results.

Several shops advocate sound dead adding materials and a chap who did a mega set of upgrades to his 35is in the USA described his figment..

Due to limited space their materials have to be very dense and thin..

Anecdotally I found that overdriven OE speakers contribute a disproportionate amount of vibration into the body/panels...with much more power and much better speakers I can run mine very hard without any obvious body rattles..
 
Very interesting theory, and one that I hadn’t given any consideration. I guess the chassis of the speakers could be of poor quality / construction and actually cause unwanted noise.

So how much improvement do you think I would gain by simply changing out the door speakers, tweeters and kick panel mids, and leaving everything else alone.

From what I can hear, the subs behind the seats are doing very little work, and only really lend themselves to very low frequencies. The majority of the punch appears to come from the kick panel mid range.
 
Pooltee said:
Very interesting theory, and one that I hadn’t given any consideration. I guess the chassis of the speakers could be of poor quality / construction and actually cause unwanted noise.

So how much improvement do you think I would gain by simply changing out the door speakers, tweeters and kick panel mids, and leaving everything else alone.

From what I can hear, the subs behind the seats are doing very little work, and only really lend themselves to very low frequencies. The majority of the punch appears to come from the kick panel mid range.

I used the Eton separate mid range and tweeter OE replacements in the door and the co-axial mid range / tweeter in the rear shoulder positions and should have stopped there..it was quite punchy and a lot crisper :thumbsup:

The centre speaker is with doing if you have the 676 set up

I then did the woofers..full DSP amp , dedicated sub woofer amp and sub woofers..it was better but not that much better given how much I spent :thumbsdown:
 
Pbondar said:
Pooltee said:
Very interesting theory, and one that I hadn’t given any consideration. I guess the chassis of the speakers could be of poor quality / construction and actually cause unwanted noise.

So how much improvement do you think I would gain by simply changing out the door speakers, tweeters and kick panel mids, and leaving everything else alone.

From what I can hear, the subs behind the seats are doing very little work, and only really lend themselves to very low frequencies. The majority of the punch appears to come from the kick panel mid range.

I used the Eton separate mid range and tweeter OE replacements in the door and the co-axial mid range / tweeter in the rear shoulder positions and should have stopped there..it was quite punchy and a lot crisper :thumbsup:

The centre speaker is with doing if you have the 676 set up

I then did the woofers..full DSP amp , dedicated sub woofer amp and sub woofers..it was better but not that much better given how much I spent :thumbsdown:

I don’t suppose you have any pictures of when you was doing the install? I don’t think I am going to bother changing the subs. If anything I was going to put a separate sub and amp into the load through area, but I can just see this creating lots of rattles, and I have only just got those under control :rofl:
 
Pooltee said:
Pbondar said:
Pooltee said:
Very interesting theory, and one that I hadn’t given any consideration. I guess the chassis of the speakers could be of poor quality / construction and actually cause unwanted noise.

So how much improvement do you think I would gain by simply changing out the door speakers, tweeters and kick panel mids, and leaving everything else alone.

From what I can hear, the subs behind the seats are doing very little work, and only really lend themselves to very low frequencies. The majority of the punch appears to come from the kick panel mid range.

I used the Eton separate mid range and tweeter OE replacements in the door and the co-axial mid range / tweeter in the rear shoulder positions and should have stopped there..it was quite punchy and a lot crisper :thumbsup:

The centre speaker is with doing if you have the 676 set up

I then did the woofers..full DSP amp , dedicated sub woofer amp and sub woofers..it was better but not that much better given how much I spent :thumbsdown:

I don’t suppose you have any pictures of when you was doing the install? I don’t think I am going to bother changing the subs. If anything I was going to put a separate sub and amp into the load through area, but I can just see this creating lots of rattles, and I have only just got those under control :rofl:

Pictures coming up tomorrow..Jamie Oliver Pan fried chicken in sesame seeds and hoisin sauce taking priority tonight : :thumbsup: :driving: :rofl:
 
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Original door speaker vs Eton Co-axial

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new woofer vs old woofer plus adapter ring
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new sub woofer vs old sub woofer
 

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BMW Active sound design box on LH rear boot bulkhead and bypass harness
 
I assume the woofer adaptor ring are for the front kick panels? Did you make them yourself or can you buy them?
 
Silverstar said:
I assume the woofer adaptor ring are for the front kick panels? Did you make them yourself or can you buy them?


Hi yes because of a lack of OE fitment woofers I made up the ring adapter from 5 ply..the chap in the US Morelli had done something similar..the footwell trim stands proud of the speaker by some way so was relatively easily done..just a b$gg%r getting the new mega magnet lined up as it wanted to be pulled to the steel work..screwed and glued it in place..no resonances..

Had to make a new connector up as the BMW speaker version didn't match the new speaker..

On the 676 amp both woofers are wired in series ie driven only one one channel, I assume summed..so fortunately, the two sets of wires run all the way to the amp area where they are spliced prior to entering the amp..so it was relatively easy to unpick them..that's where the 3 series harness supplied differs from the E89..there is no support for woofers in most after markket harnesses for BMW amp upgrades..bit more splicing required!


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Pbondar, you did a fine job with those adaptor rings. Do you know if they are commercially available? If not would you be prepared to make up a set (for a fee of course) for when I eventually get around to upgrading mine. I am just not very good with this sort of thing and I don't have the tools to do it. :|

On another note am I correct in thinking that actually the base 6 speaker system might be easier to upgrade. Just a case of upgrading the speakers in the doors (to include the tweeter in the mirror housing) and rear behind the seats speakers and adding some subwoofers to the kick panels wired to a mono amp using a line out converter from the existing wiring to the woofers. It seems there are a couple of members who have done this and according to them with great results.
 
Silverstar said:
Pbondar, you did a fine job with those adaptor rings. Do you know if they are commercially available? If not would you be prepared to make up a set (for a fee of course) for when I eventually get around to upgrading mine. I am just not very good with this sort of thing and I don't have the tools to do it. :|

On another note am I correct in thinking that actually the base 6 speaker system might be easier to upgrade. Just a case of upgrading the speakers in the doors (to include the tweeter in the mirror housing) and rear behind the seats speakers and adding some subwoofers to the kick panels wired to a mono amp using a line out converter from the existing wiring to the woofers. It seems there are a couple of members who have done this and according to them with great results.

Hello..I can do a set of adaptors but it of course depends on which woofers you select..

There are many options including that version you state..

The observations are:

1) The base stereo is only 15w per channel so not a lot of drive for the speakers..but the Eton versions are quite efficient..
2) The base stereo has a very heavily tweaked signal, forward biased and tailored to compensate for the cheapest speakers..using that signal out has its limitations but if you're summing and feeding into a sub woofer optimised amp the roll off curve and sensitivity controls will offset that..
3) Better IMHO to use a two channal amp and get a bit of stereo seperation with a roll off control if possible.

So I'm sure it would be an improvement and relatively cheap..just a few caveats..you may have to play with the tone controls a bit to get around the tailored response from the stereo vs the extended range of the replacement door speakers and of course te new fresh and bright tweeters.. :thumbsup:
 
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