- Disconnected bottom end of reservoir-pump hose
- Drained the system as much as possible by turning steering wheel, also with wheel on the ground to create friction to turn the torsion bar thingy in the power assist apparatus (for lack of a better word
- Filled it
- Started engine and turned left and right. Was a mistake, steering wheel started vibrating and not turning frictionless as it should, probably because there was mainly air in the rack cilinder. Should have turned the wheel first without the engine and pump running.
- So did that, then started engine again, turned the wheel more, all good, topped up and turned a bit more
- Drained it and repeated all steps for the genuine fill
Now came the full bleeding, first turning wheel without engine and pump, then with engine and pump. All fine, bubbles decreased, but even after literally turning the wheel for more than an hour in all manners possible (with breaks in between, slow, fast, 10x in a row etc.) they diminished to a great degree but never fully disappeared. It are only like 3 or 4 minuscule bubbles slowly floating to the surface after yanking the wheel to full lock, but still. You would think that after literally 100 wheel rotations or something that it would simply be 100% air free.
Am not planning on swapping fluid for the next 20k miles so wanted to do it good but at one point I just stopped. Turned so much I created flat spots on the tires I guess.
Does anyone have a tip ? Or are those minuscule bubbles just how it's supposed to be and am I just being OCD ? Like the fluid is super clear and you can clearly see bottom of reservoir, but you do see tiny almost like air particles slowly floating about. Like a couple of them every some wheel turns. Super annoying
- Drained the system as much as possible by turning steering wheel, also with wheel on the ground to create friction to turn the torsion bar thingy in the power assist apparatus (for lack of a better word
- Filled it
- Started engine and turned left and right. Was a mistake, steering wheel started vibrating and not turning frictionless as it should, probably because there was mainly air in the rack cilinder. Should have turned the wheel first without the engine and pump running.
- So did that, then started engine again, turned the wheel more, all good, topped up and turned a bit more
- Drained it and repeated all steps for the genuine fill
Now came the full bleeding, first turning wheel without engine and pump, then with engine and pump. All fine, bubbles decreased, but even after literally turning the wheel for more than an hour in all manners possible (with breaks in between, slow, fast, 10x in a row etc.) they diminished to a great degree but never fully disappeared. It are only like 3 or 4 minuscule bubbles slowly floating to the surface after yanking the wheel to full lock, but still. You would think that after literally 100 wheel rotations or something that it would simply be 100% air free.
Am not planning on swapping fluid for the next 20k miles so wanted to do it good but at one point I just stopped. Turned so much I created flat spots on the tires I guess.
Does anyone have a tip ? Or are those minuscule bubbles just how it's supposed to be and am I just being OCD ? Like the fluid is super clear and you can clearly see bottom of reservoir, but you do see tiny almost like air particles slowly floating about. Like a couple of them every some wheel turns. Super annoying