BIG Service

danfrost89

danfrost89

Member
 Derby
Evening,

I've jus introduced myself in the relevant place but I've just bought a 2007 E86 3.0Si. It had Full BMW stamp up until 90k and then 'home' maintained up to the current 122k.

This was my plan (largely based on AI) - I'd really welcome any real world experience to be sure:

  • Engine oil + filter (BMW LL-01, 6.5L 5W-30)
  • Spark plugs ×6 (NGK ILZFR6D-11)
  • Air filter (OE paper)
  • Diff oil (75W-90 GL-5)
  • Gearbox oil (BMW MTF-LT-2/3)
  • Brake fluid (DOT 4)
  • Coolant (G48-type)
  • Coolant level sensor diagnosis (sensor 61318360855; tank 17117573751)
  • CDV delete + clutch bleed
  • Handbrake rectification (shoes / drum-in-disc inspection)
  • VANOS solenoid clean + new O-rings
  • driveline clunk on clutch take-up. Please diagnose to a firm conclusion and quote to fix
Anything else I should be adding?

Any advice, much appreciated. I did try a search but couldn't find anything definitive.
 
Oil will be LL-04, you won't find LL-01. Do you have some reason to think it won't have had everything done as per the book by the last owner? It could well have just had its second change since done by BMW based on those mileages, or it may be coming up. What does the dashboard countdown say?

Sparkplugs - change interval is 100k so, again, unless you have some reason to doubt it, they should have been done. You could pull one to check to see if it says BMW on it which would show if they've been replaced or not (assuming BMW didn't do them at 90k).

Air filter - 2 minute job to see if it's actually grubby (8 to 4 it's clean and it'll give you an idea to the previous owner's approach to servicing.) Check the pollen filter for something far more often overlooked.

Brake fluid is every 4 years and comes up with a timed Inspection (clock symbol + "Inspection") when it's due. You can check the colour

VANOS solenoids: cleaning doesn't actually work and it's probably already had at least one replaced by now so you may as well leave them alone until it starts running oddly. If you want something to play with, the VANOS filters can be checked. They're a bit easier to get to, too.

I'd worry more about mechanical bits like the clutch and brakes if they're troublesome.
 
Driveline clunk on clutch take up, diagnose a firm conclusion and quote to fix…??

We’re not here to do your work and a price Dan, you need to speak to wherever you’re going to take it.

Hope you get it sorted. 👍
 
That looks like a comprehensive list but IIRC the diff doesn't have a drain plug so they'll need something to extract the oil from it.

It's worth looking to see if any oil is leaking from the cam-cover or oil filter housing as the gaskets get brittle with age. My 2005 330i has the same engine and has needed both of those replacing. :rolleyes:

Do you know if it has had a replacement electric water pump? When they die the engine overheats in less than a mile so some people get them replaced as a preventative measure to avoid being stranded, although new Pierbrg ones aren't cheap at £250 to £300. Just don't buy from BMW as they charge over £500 for the same part!
 
The cam cover has had new seals (according to receipts). And sorry, left some inspection bits off my already big list!

Water pump… I read the same but mate of a mate is a specialist and he said leave it till it breaks as they last ages… Good shout on getting a non-BM part. They hard to do?
 
Last edited:
danfrost89 said:
The can cover has had new seals (according to receipts). And sorry, left some inspection bits off my already big list!

Water pump… turn on this as I read the same but mate of a mate is a specialist and he said leave it till it breaks as they last ages… Good shout on getting a non-BM part. They hard to do?
Click to expand...
Your mate’s mate is gambling with your engine. Does he understand it’s an electric one? If the pump packs up you will overheat in less than a mile!
Buy a Pierburg one and Mahle thermostat for around £350 and you could change it yourself in about an hour, including new coolant and a bleed cycle.
 
Advice taken. Ordering genuine Pierburg pump (£315) was cheapest I could find one (I don't fancy any of the Chinesium parts for £60!) and a Febi thermostat for £115 from GSF. Given we're draining the coolant, etc, may as well do it as there's at least a little overlap in labour.

I find Febi to be OEM replicas basically.
 
danfrost89 said:
Advice taken. Ordering genuine Pierburg pump (£315) was cheapest I could find one (I don't fancy any of the Chinesium parts for £60!) and a Febi thermostat for £115 from GSF. Given we're draining the coolant, etc, may as well do it as there's at least a little overlap in labour.

I find Febi to be OEM replicas basically.
Click to expand...
Fair enough, though I think most people would take Mahle over Febi most times.
 
smorris_12 said:
Oil will be LL-04, you won't find LL-01. Do you have some reason to think it won't have had everything done as per the book by the last owner? It could well have just had its second change since done by BMW based on those mileages, or it may be coming up. What does the dashboard countdown say?

Sparkplugs - change interval is 100k so, again, unless you have some reason to doubt it, they should have been done. You could pull one to check to see if it says BMW on it which would show if they've been replaced or not (assuming BMW didn't do them at 90k).

Air filter - 2 minute job to see if it's actually grubby (8 to 4 it's clean and it'll give you an idea to the previous owner's approach to servicing.) Check the pollen filter for something far more often overlooked.

Brake fluid is every 4 years and comes up with a timed Inspection (clock symbol + "Inspection") when it's due. You can check the colour

VANOS solenoids: cleaning doesn't actually work and it's probably already had at least one replaced by now so you may as well leave them alone until it starts running oddly. If you want something to play with, the VANOS filters can be checked. They're a bit easier to get to, too.

I'd worry more about mechanical bits like the clutch and brakes if they're troublesome.
Click to expand...

I've done the pollen filter - suitably grubby and full of leaves (after I'd just hoovered...).

I'll leave VANOS then.

Plugs, etc - I'm just gonna do 'em all but understood.

Brakes and clutch seem strong. Just had new discs and pads all round.

I really ought to see if I can get the BMW service history record - is there a way of doing that?

Thanks again all.
 
There's also this for a less obvious source of clunks

J

Thread 'Greasing Differential Input Flange - Fix for Clanking Differential - E85'

The Problem

My 2004 BMW Z4 E85's differential clunks on acceleration, specifically in 1st 2nd, and 3rd gear, at low speeds. The clunk only happens when engaging or disengaging the accelerator. I lift my foot off the petal and *clunk* it disengages, and I put my foot back on *clunk* it engages.

The sound seems to come from the back of the car and is really starting to annoy me because it is audible from outside the car, and can be felt on the inside.

For more information on how this repair was researched & which options were considered please view this thread...
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