Big BMW Bill! Advice guys?

Busterboo said:
You're going to run a 335bhp rear-wheel-drive car on cracked-&-welded rear wheels? :?

Make sure you tell your insurer.

For petes sake, do you tell your insurer if you get a puncture repaired? How about if you leave the house with odd socks on?
Calm your tits & worry about world peace/another real issue :roll:
Rob
 
I appreciate this is an E89, but I replaced both my front shocks on my E85 in 90 mins (novice here with a little help from a mechanic friend)

The only cost was parts
 
Hi Sunnydays, you appear to be having a rough time getting the Zeds Gremlins sorted. Hang in there it will be worthwhile.

We have recently had the 326M wheels refurbed and have switched away from the run-flats. We went for comfort on the tyres rather than outright performance. Uniroyal RT3's in 235/35 at front and 255/35 at the rear. Improvement in comfort level is amazing and I now have much less concern that the wheels will develop cracks. Note : previous wheels were not cracked but refurb involved adding weld material to build up rim profile before re-machining. The rim profile had been ruined by cosmetic repair work carried out by BMW main dealership in March 2017, and charged to previous owner. I decided just to pay for a decent professional job rather than give the bodger another go.

The 326M 19" wheels do look great, my refurb was done through a local firm who stripped the tires off and then sent the wheels off to a specialist in Milton Keynes, (6 day turn around) . Wheel refurb was £528 incl (I know this is not cheap) and tires were £400 supply only from local garage with free fitment by the local firm who sent the wheels away. Another £70 for centre caps and wheel decals and we will be all fixed up for £1000.

Dave
 
I found my e89 had a cracked 17 inch alloy the week after I bought the car. This was my first ever cracked alloy after 10 years of bmw ownership. When I started my research the scary stuff wasn't that a crack can be repaired but that the alloy has to be heated highly to accept the weld and that this then created a weak spot on each side of the weld :headbang: creating two weak points versus the one fixed. Anyway personal preference was to get 4 alloys of the same style to replace the cracked one and two rear kerbed ones giving me 3 spares. This option worked for me.
 
Carmad84 said:
Busterboo said:
You're going to run a 335bhp rear-wheel-drive car on cracked-&-welded rear wheels? :?

Make sure you tell your insurer.

You actually do not need to tell the insurer as fixing a cracked rim is not a modification! :headbang:

Nor is it a MOT fail so done correctly i see a weld on a wheel no worse than a weld anywhere else on the car no matter what bhp it has :wink:
 
Carmad84 said:
Busterboo said:
You're going to run a 335bhp rear-wheel-drive car on cracked-&-welded rear wheels? :?

Make sure you tell your insurer.

You actually do not need to tell the insurer as fixing a cracked rim is not a modification! :headbang:

Really? Kuh ... I thought it was. :roll:
 
Smartbear said:
Busterboo said:
You're going to run a 335bhp rear-wheel-drive car on cracked-&-welded rear wheels? :?

Make sure you tell your insurer.

For petes sake, do you tell your insurer if you get a puncture repaired? How about if you leave the house with odd socks on?
Calm your tits & worry about world peace/another real issue :roll:
Rob

Rob ... I was joking. Sarcastically, but joking nonetheless.

That said, I've never driven a car with welded wheels and I never shall, least of all a powerful one. (Now that's not a joke. Not at all.)
 
Photographs of refurbed wheels:

RedZed wheel close up compressed.jpg

The final finished colour is more of a silver grey than the original bright silver - still deciding if we like the new colour or prefer the original

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/download/file.php?mode=view&id=17648
Car looks high on the front suspension, would like to lower the front but don't want to mess up the handling etc.

Dave
 

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Busterboo said:
Smartbear said:
Busterboo said:
An accurate definition of cracked 19" alloys.

That's an ignorant comment Tim, more than likely to be an easy & cheap welded repair and changing to non runflats would see it unlikely to reoccur :thumbsup:
Rob

For your sake, Rob, I hope you're right.

But it's not a choice I'd make, nor advice I'd give. Cracked wheels are not MoT fails because inspectors don't like welders. :wink:

Heard it all before..... like a stuck record :roll:
 
I personally wouldn't want welded wheels on my car either. It's a bodge to save a few quid on quite a crucial component.

The 19" OEM wheels are junk and will keep cracking. Get a decent set of HRE or BBS wheels and some premium rubber, best £2k you'll spend on the car.
 
Ewazix said:
I don't like the idea of welded cracked wheels, I know Frigg all about welding but I'll express an expert opinion anyway - a lot of places won't even touch most work if this type as the welds are either ugly, leaky or break up again. None of which is good. Unfortunately the weld process weakens the alloy unless a lot of expert care is taken and its an appropriate area of damage.

Fixed that for you.... :roll:
 
Thanks for the advice everyone much appreciated. So an update:

The front shock absorber, I have had 2 indys take a look and say it is absoloutely fine, they say that BMW are chatting crap essentially. Going to have a third opinion just to be sure.

Alloys: I have read around the subject and from what I have understood a weld will not last for ever. It appears the rim will crack again, in the same spot given abit of time. In addition to this the heating required to integrate the weld weakens the alloy in other spots, by the time it is welded, refurbed and painted will be circa £400. Based on this I have opted for the option of a new set of aftermarket alloys.

Thanks!
 
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