Between-seatback vertical console door will not open

[thomaskleonard]

2003 Z4 Roadster: I cannot get the vertical (between seatbacks) compartment door to open... the release button feels solidly in place, and cannot be depressed to unlatch the door. Is there some sort of release in the trunk that will allow me to open this door? My registration card and Proof-of-Insurance are locked in the compartment. Thank you.

 

[srhutch]

You should have a draw string in the boot against the firewall in the centre that will release the door.

 

[Ewazix]

You should have a draw string in the boot against the firewall in the centre that will release the door.

Well I never realised that

 

[oldgitdave]

I had a similar issue when I bought mine; the centre cubby wouldn't open. The pull cord in the boot didn't work either. I eventually managed to pry it open & then took the console apart & found the solenoid that locks the cubby door didn't work & was in locked mode. The solenoid motor checked out OK so it just wasn't getting an unlock signal from the central locking. I decided to just remove the solenoid & refit the console. All OK now just doesn't lock any more.
If you look here https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=93757&start=1080 onwards it might help .

 

[srhutch]

You should have a draw string in the boot against the firewall in the centre that will release the door.

Well I never realised that

It’s there in case of electrical failure. So assume really only of use when car loses power when locked, but it’s worth a try.

 

[Ewazix]

You should have a draw string in the boot against the firewall in the centre that will release the door.

Well I never realised that

It’s there in case of electrical failure. So assume really only of use when car loses power when locked, but it’s worth a try.

Now I'm feeling really daft, I've had the car nearly ten years and didn't realise that the cubby actually locked! :lol:

Since we (I ) now know that the cubby locks and is presumably controlled by the MG5 module, could it be an MG5 module issue?

 

[buzyg]

Well I never realised that

It’s there in case of electrical failure. So assume really only of use when car loses power when locked, but it’s worth a try.

Now I'm feeling really daft, I've had the car nearly ten years and didn't realise that the cubby actually locked! :lol:

Since we (I ) now know that the cubby locks and is presumably controlled by the MG5 module, could it be an MG5 module issue?

Well I knew it locked, but had know idea there is a manual pull string to open it, hiding in the boot.
Mind you, only had the Zed 8 1/2 years. :wink:

 

[srhutch]

Must be knowledge you gain after owning for over 12 years :lol:

 

[wonkydonkey]

This is why you'll see E85 owners stowing their valuables in that cubby before locking up and walking away! :wink: I presume it's controlled by the GM5 module

 

[enuff_zed]

A bit of thread revival, rather than start a new one.
Ed's Zed has exactly this problem and I've been advised it could be the GM5 module.
PH001 read my PM but hasn't replied. I tried an ebay fixer that was recommended but they didn't even know what storage compartment I meant and said they 'only fix central locking issues.'
When people talk about replacing the relays in the GM5, are these dedicated to a particular lock or are they part of a generic circuit? I'm assuming that as the doors work ok it must be separate, but i don't want to send off the GM5 to get it back without it being fixed.

Has anyone else encountered this problem and found a fix.

 

[BumpyZ4]

All the locks (drivers door, passenger door, boot lid, fuel filler door, center console door) all work off of the GM5. Replacing the relays should fix the locking issue.

 

[enuff_zed]

All the locks (drivers door, passenger door, boot lid, fuel filler door, center console door) all work off of the GM5. Replacing the relays should fix the locking issue.

Sure?
The relays aren't one for each door then? They both work the whole system?
How come only that one lock is failing??

 

[BumpyZ4]

It could also be you door lock actuator itself. You could unplug it and manually put voltage to it and see if it locks/unlocks.

 

[enuff_zed]

It could also be you door lock actuator itself. You could unplug it and manually put voltage to it and see if it locks/unlocks.

My good friend Stuart (bigwinn) has a spare, so first get the door open, slave in the replacement. If that doesn't work it's clean all the connectors at both ends (solenoid and gm5). Last resort, overhaul the gm5.
Thanks for your thoughts so far.