Best vanos rebuild guide
- Thread starter RG500
- Start date
Hi, are you talking M54 engine?
If so then buy your kit from X8R and they send you a link to their guides:
https://x8r.co.uk/for-bmw-double-twin-dual-vanos-seals-repair-set-kit-m52-m54-m56-with-gaskets.html
Bottom right of the page there's a tab for the repair pdfs
If so then buy your kit from X8R and they send you a link to their guides:
https://x8r.co.uk/for-bmw-double-twin-dual-vanos-seals-repair-set-kit-m52-m54-m56-with-gaskets.html
Bottom right of the page there's a tab for the repair pdfs
grannyknot
Member
You could also try these guys, their tutorials are well done.
https://www.beisansystems.com/
https://www.beisansystems.com/
I think 2 of the most complicated parts about the vanos job on the E85 z4 are missing in the guide:
- Getting the vanos off the engine, as there is not enough room between the engine and front subframe structure without doing additional work. I only got that to work by removing the engine mounts and lowering the engine about 1" onto the subframe, putting a piece of rubber mat inbetween to protect the sump. (about 15min work if you have it on a ramp or lift, but you do need some kind of jack to lift the engine up to take out the engine mounts (4 nuts)).
I've heard of people manhandling the engine pushing it up to the cabin bulkhead with prybars and such, but I decided not to use brute force on my car and saw lowering the engine by 1" as the only way for the vanos to clear the front subframe structure without putting excessive force on other components.
- getting the vanos piston caps out requires bent needlenose pliers instead of normal needlenose pliers. Again because of the subframe structure is in the way.
Assuming that you don't want to get the complete engine out first, as those guides seem to be written around that scenario :lol:
(makes for great pictures, but doesn't tell the complete story alas).
These issues are afaik Z4 only; the E46/E39 etc have different monocoques with less bracing, so that's why they probably are missing in the guides. The suppliers probably just don't know. :roll:
- Getting the vanos off the engine, as there is not enough room between the engine and front subframe structure without doing additional work. I only got that to work by removing the engine mounts and lowering the engine about 1" onto the subframe, putting a piece of rubber mat inbetween to protect the sump. (about 15min work if you have it on a ramp or lift, but you do need some kind of jack to lift the engine up to take out the engine mounts (4 nuts)).
I've heard of people manhandling the engine pushing it up to the cabin bulkhead with prybars and such, but I decided not to use brute force on my car and saw lowering the engine by 1" as the only way for the vanos to clear the front subframe structure without putting excessive force on other components.
- getting the vanos piston caps out requires bent needlenose pliers instead of normal needlenose pliers. Again because of the subframe structure is in the way.
Assuming that you don't want to get the complete engine out first, as those guides seem to be written around that scenario :lol:
(makes for great pictures, but doesn't tell the complete story alas).
These issues are afaik Z4 only; the E46/E39 etc have different monocoques with less bracing, so that's why they probably are missing in the guides. The suppliers probably just don't know. :roll:
Thanks for the replies and apologies for the delay.
I work away and don't have access to a PC.
Home yesterday and made a start to things today.
All was going well until I tried to remove the unbolted vanos unit!
Surely someone in design is needing shot for this idea. 1 x 6mm tread preventing the vanos unit from being removed and its only by a couple of threads.
I work away and don't have access to a PC.
Home yesterday and made a start to things today.
All was going well until I tried to remove the unbolted vanos unit!
Surely someone in design is needing shot for this idea. 1 x 6mm tread preventing the vanos unit from being removed and its only by a couple of threads.
Plugged in the code reader and the following fault codes appeared:-
P0300, P0304, P0305 and P0306.
Plugs and coils are new.
Here's a video of the car starting and as mentioned, after 22 seconds it's all good.
The clanking noise is the idle control valve.
https://youtu.be/jRpFJazeXbU
P0300, P0304, P0305 and P0306.
Plugs and coils are new.
Here's a video of the car starting and as mentioned, after 22 seconds it's all good.
The clanking noise is the idle control valve.
https://youtu.be/jRpFJazeXbU
General explanation and causes explained here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJvaKVMyhQY
That idle control valve sounds knackered try swapping that out for a replacement from one of our resident breakers see if that sorts it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJvaKVMyhQY
That idle control valve sounds knackered try swapping that out for a replacement from one of our resident breakers see if that sorts it.
