Best lift position..

4

417Z

Member
Hello! I'm a completely new registered user, but I've been reading this forum for a couple of years. I'm getting ready to replace control arms, ball joints, tie rod assembies...

What I'd really like to know is if the best method is to raise the front end of the car or do it one side at a time. Keep in mind, I'm just a very capable shade tree mechanic.
 
There are lots of entries her about jacking points, but from my limited knowledge, I think you could jack up the car from the central underbody location (there's a specific pad for this) then lower onto jack stands located under the sills.
I'd do it that way, at least the car is (laterally) horizontal and stable.
 
Technically, the only jacking points at the front are the sill points. However, I regularly use the central point under the structural crossmember. This has a pad added to it on the M cars, so it's clearly a structural point.

You'll want to get a BMW specific jack pad (looks like a hockey puck with one side cut down to a rectangle) as this fits the indent in the metal tray.

You likely will bend the metal undertray a bit doing this, but it's not an issue.
 
Scooba_Steve said:
The undertray is structural and the bolts are single use, proceed with caution.
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Indeed, but the crossmember I'm on about is about 1mm from the undertray, so it won't cause any issues. Bear in mind the M has a hole cut into its tray here for a rubber jack pad to be installed.
 
To raise the front of the car, I jack it up using the rear lifting points and put axle stands under the front lifting points.
 
wonkydonkey said:
To raise the front of the car, I jack it up using the rear lifting points and put axle stands under the front lifting points.
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Likewise, jack up at the rear as much as you can then pop and axle stand under the front jacking point... if you want both sides in the air then use the central jacking point after you get one side in the air! Personally I can't get a jack under the central point unless its already up in the air but my car is lowered, maybe you can on a non lowered car!?
 
[ref]Chris1981[/ref] I bought a low entry jack and actually have to add about 50 mm of packers to the jack cup before I lift the car using the central rear jacking paint. If I don't, I can't lift it high enough to get my axle stands under! :headbang: :lol: My standard height jack is too high to get under the central rear jacking point.
 
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