Best clay mitt?

[SonnyA85]

I used some bilt Hamber clay to remove contamination last weekend and it was time consuming constantly folding it over and was just using water for lubricant so I don't know if that wasn't helping matters as it seemed to stick a lot but after I did notice I didn't get all the contamination but it is looking a lot better and needs a very good look to see it as it was obvious from a mile away before.

Are clay mitts a lot better and easier to use? Also is it worth using something else other than water? The bar seemed to stick and get stuck a lot even though the bonnet was soaking wet.

I do have a lot of the clay bar still to be used as I broke a piece off then just binned it afterwards. So I will continue to use it for now.

I only did the bonnet as that's where the majority of contaminants are. I plan on claying again in a few weeks and will hopefully use up the rest of the clay bar over the next few sessions but I am hoping to switch to a clay mitt once all used up and was looking for recommendations. Also if I should be using a quick detailer or something else as a cheap lubricant to help it glide better

 

[AnilS]

I moved from Bilt hammer clay to a Farecla clay mitt (Halfords) after reviews on Detailing world.

Never looked back. Quicker, just as effective and no nonsense to use.

Just use a soapy solution for lube but remember, it'll still marr the paintwork. Correction thereafter essential.

 

[enuff_zed]

+1 for the Farecla mitt.
I use the usual soapy solution but have to say I've never had any issues with the paintwork, other than the obvious fact that it removes any polish etc. that you have on the car.
I'm now on my second mitt, but I kept the first one as it does an excellent job of cleaning the windscreen too.

 

[SonnyA85]

Thanks for the recommendation. I have a Halfords nearby so that's good. Surprised at how cheap it is I thought a mitt would be a lot more expensive than £13 but there you go.

I think I'll get one before I use up the rest of the bar because the bar certainly was a lot of work but the bonnet did need a lot of work. Other panels didn't feel rough/bumpy to touch but the bonnet did you could tell it had a lot of crap stuck onto it that multiple washes just couldn't get at.

 

[enuff_zed]

Thanks for the recommendation. I have a Halfords nearby so that's good. Surprised at how cheap it is I thought a mitt would be a lot more expensive than £13 but there you go.

So well worth a try at least.
I wash the car and rinse it, then mix up a half bucket of the same shampoo mix and do one panel at a time. I put the mitt on my hand and dip it in the soapy bucket, then as I use it to wipe over the panel I hold a sponge soaked in the same bucket over the top of the panel and let the water run down to keep everything lubricated.
As your hand is actually inside the mitt you will feel the coarseness of the first couple of passes over the panel, then you'll feel it get smoother. Makes it so easy to judge how you're progressing. If you encounter a stubborn bit of tar, don't be tempted to press harder as this will leave marks. Give it several passes over until it surrenders.
Only word of caution; the mitt is just a big square. It easily falls off your hand, especially when you lift it out of the bucket and it's full of water, so take care not to drop it on the ground.

 

[Thrustyjust]

I still have lots of clay lube in a bottle as bought a concentrated bottle that you can mixed to 1 : a million parts of water , so after washing, I go mental with this in a spray bottle. Then use the Farecla mitt to decontaminate and then wash the car again with my usual Car Chem 1:1900 shampoo. If you are careful and not too aggressive, I find it will clean and prevent minimal to no marring of the paint. Depends also on the condition of the paint before hand, obviously.

 

[AnilS]

Thanks for the recommendation. I have a Halfords nearby so that's good. Surprised at how cheap it is I thought a mitt would be a lot more expensive than £13 but there you go.

So well worth a try at least.
I wash the car and rinse it, then mix up a half bucket of the same shampoo mix and do one panel at a time. I put the mitt on my hand and dip it in the soapy bucket, then as I use it to wipe over the panel I hold a sponge soaked in the same bucket over the top of the panel and let the water run down to keep everything lubricated.
As your hand is actually inside the mitt you will feel the coarseness of the first couple of passes over the panel, then you'll feel it get smoother. Makes it so easy to judge how you're progressing. If you encounter a stubborn bit of tar, don't be tempted to press harder as this will leave marks. Give it several passes over until it surrenders.
Only word of caution; the mitt is just a big square. It easily falls off your hand, especially when you lift it out of the bucket and it's full of water, so take care not to drop it on the ground.

Absolutely this. Perfect explanation.

 

[SonnyA85]

Yeah I know if you drop a clay bar on the ground you should bin it. It's essential they don't come into contact with lots of debris, etc only freshly cleaned panels of the car.

I waxed the car after its last clay bar a week ago so I'll not be having a go at this for a few weeks now until that wax has worn off. Just quick washes until a full deep clean but looking forward to using a mitt this time the bar was just a lot of hard work which I don't mind but if there is an easier solution that people recommend then I'd thought it's best to try it out.

I need to get some plumbers tape for my second foam cannon. It's got a tiny leak at the seal. I also got a 20m hose recently for the pressure washer. Makes washing 2 cars and cleaning the driveway a breeze not having to lug the pressure washer about.

Look forward to my next deep clean of the car.

It's really hot today might give it a quick clean and take it out and enjoy the views and weather.

 

[tomscott]

I think those clay mitts are rubbish personally rub a little too hard on stubborn tar and it leaves marks on the body work and you have to go back with something like ultimate compound to remove it. I found I had to go over twice and it was more energy to actually remove contaminant as it doesn't seem to grip as well. Good old clay bar in my experience is a much better product.

Might just be the one I bought it was a Gtechniq G3 Pro Deep Clean Clay Mitt from Halfords.

Depends on the car really I bought a preowned car that had never been detailed and was really contaminated. Decided to give the mit a go and it was more pain than it was worth but if your car has already been detailed and your going back to give it another and its not too badly soiled then they can work well as technically not much should have stuck.

Last thing you want is to seal in contaminant when you think you have removed it by glancing over it with a mit.

 

[patriot66]

You really should be removing any tar spots or tree sap, bird & insect marks BEFORE putting a clay bar/mitt anywhere near the paintwork. After washing and whilst car is still wet spray some decent T&G Remover along the sides of the car especially behind the wheel arches. You will see the tar spots start to melt/run and then wipe away with a m/f cloth. Repeat until all tar spots have gone. Rinse car off with pressure washer. Then treat the paintwork with a decent iron/fall-out remover and rinse again. THEN you can start with a clay bar/mitt.

 

[enuff_zed]

You really should be removing any tar spots or tree sap, bird & insect marks BEFORE putting a clay bar/mitt anywhere near the paintwork. After washing and whilst car is still wet spray some decent T&G Remover along the sides of the car especially behind the wheel arches. You will see the tar spots start to melt/run and then wipe away with a m/f cloth. Repeat until all tar spots have gone. Rinse car off with pressure washer. Then treat the paintwork with a decent iron/fall-out remover and rinse again. THEN you can start with a clay bar/mitt.

Yup, taking this advice in context with Tom's I'd agree that you get the worst of it all off first, but any small bits you miss can be addressed with a clay mitt without any detriment if you take your time.

 

[B21]

I've bought two sets of these mitts now on folks say so..(one for each hand)..all our welcome to come and clay my car..I provide free drinks and biccys..

 

[SonnyA85]

You really should be removing any tar spots or tree sap, bird & insect marks BEFORE putting a clay bar/mitt anywhere near the paintwork. After washing and whilst car is still wet spray some decent T&G Remover along the sides of the car especially behind the wheel arches. You will see the tar spots start to melt/run and then wipe away with a m/f cloth. Repeat until all tar spots have gone. Rinse car off with pressure washer. Then treat the paintwork with a decent iron/fall-out remover and rinse again. THEN you can start with a clay bar/mitt.

This reminds me. I have 5 litres of surfex HD and various citrus cleaners in the garage. I didn't use them last time around as I thought they weren't necessary as I have been washing the car weekly since it's deep clean.

My stages before claying were, spray with iron remover, snow foam over iron remover, rinse and contact wash.

I'll add 1:10 surfex HD spray before I clay next time and give it another clean and possibly the citrus too but may be overkill as I wash the car weekly now and the car does 1-2k miles per year.

 

[Thrustyjust]

I wouldnt use Surfex on fresh prepped and/ or waxed panels. Its good stuff and use it everywhere, from the car , to mountain bikes , to the kitchen , especially the cooker. Even 1 to 10 is pretty strong . I use 1 to 20 ish and is strong stuff at that.