Belt got sucked into engine. Need to remove oil pan.

O

Ohio_Guy

New member
2006 Z4 3.0si, N52 engine, manual transmission.

The belt got sucked into the engine. :rolleyes: I need to remove the oil pan and clean it out. Also need to replace the front crankshaft seal.

Been doing some research on how to remove the oil pan. Unfortunately there's not much info out there on the subject.

I do know I need to support the top of the engine, so I just purchased an engine support bracket. I also know the subframe must be removed. I believe two engine mounts must be loosened or removed, and the steering shaft must be disconnected?

Anyway, am looking for any and all advice, links to videos, links to pdf manuals, etc.

Thank you!
 
I need to do this too, as I have a leaking sump gasket. Just waiting for the parts to show up.

Do you mind sharing what engine support bracket you got?

I will have a look on NewTIS for you. As far as I remember the steering shaft does not need to be disconnected.
 
Sorry what pardon?

How did the belt get sucked into the engine? Past the crankshaft and through the crank seal?
 
Damn, I hope you get it sorted, and hopefully nothing got ingested further into the block, to clog up the oil passages.

Look after those tensioners, guys.
Don't ignore those leaky oil cooler gaskets, either. 👍

From memory, I think there's a protection plate you can install between the crankcase and pulley, to stop this happening.
 
Rockhopper said:
How on earth did that happen?
Click to expand...
I also wondered that, then saw that video and glad I changed mine a few days after buying the car as they were cracked (it had only covered about 250 miles between the two previous MOTs) and only cost £20.
 
It's occasionally talked about, especially on the 3 series forums, with a few reports, mainly in the US.

Culprits seem to be:
Oil cooler gaskets leaking onto the belt, degrading it, belt fails/frays.
Tensioner failing.
Old belt, or degraded from numerous oil or coolant spills. Belt fails/frays.
Mis-aligned alternator, maybe? Belt slips off.

As I said before, dont ignore those weepy oil cooler gaskets and probably best to change the tensioner and belt every 60k or so.
You can get a protection plate to stop the belt being ingested, if the worse was to happen.
 
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Not wanting to teach granny to suck eggs but if you haven’t replaced a crankshaft oil seal before can I strongly suggest you buy a welding mask protection film at .8mm thick. Cut it so that it wraps round the oil seal ideally without overlapping, smear both sides with clean oil and insert into crank recess, then gently pull the film out once the seal is correctly seated. This method will prevent the oil seal edges from folding over on themselves on installation which will 100% leak oil if they do fold over, so you have to start the job all over again as the first you’ll know about it is on start up and you have a big pool of oil on the floor.
 

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Good grief, thats a shocker!
Is this something that the Z4M engine could also suffer from? Maybe something preventative like this would be a good idea?
 
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