Battery Symbol

S

SGL3JJW

Member
I've had a battery symbol come up on my dash twice now, about a month apart, if I've had the ignition on for a minute or so but not started the car.

Presumably this means it's new battery time. Could it be anything else?

It's a 2010 35i S drive on 83,000 miles and is definitely the original battery.

Are these the sort of battery that requires dealer registration? Any idea of cost? It needs to be a genuine item as I'm still paying extended warranty.

Thanks.
 
SGL3JJW said:
I've had a battery symbol come up on my dash twice now, about a month apart, if I've had the ignition on for a minute or so but not started the car.

Presumably this means it's new battery time. Could it be anything else?

It's a 2010 35i S drive on 83,000 miles and is definitely the original battery.

Are these the sort of battery that requires dealer registration? Any idea of cost? It needs to be a genuine item as I'm still paying extended warranty.

Thanks.
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Get it replaced under warranty.
 
Looks like ur gonna have to shell out for a new battery then. Unless ur alternators on the way out and not charging ur batterry adequately.
 
Do you need to have BMW code an E89 battery to the car though?

Alternator is fine. 14.4v across the battery with car running.

Cheers.
 
Did someone somewhere mention that Halfords can now supply and code batteries?
Also read somewhere on a different car BMW forum, so long you replace with exact same battery, no need to code?
 
Yes Halfords do batteries, AGM 70ah, own brand (which are Yuasa), £149 +£25 fitting and coding.
Just had one fitted.
 
I have the same issue, did a google search, everyone is trying to sell me a very expensive AGM battery but I read on other forums that his is not necessary, an inexpensive S5 or even S4 battery will do apparently?

Does anyone know what the original spec was for a 2012 Z4 ROADSTER - 20i sDrive M Sport 2dr Auto?
 
bikbergen said:
I have the same issue, did a google search, everyone is trying to sell me a very expensive AGM battery but I read on other forums that his is not necessary, an inexpensive S5 or even S4 battery will do apparently?

Does anyone know what the original spec was for a 2012 Z4 ROADSTER - 20i sDrive M Sport 2dr Auto?
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Well they are AGM for a reason, probably to cope with the demands of the power roof, steering, etc and if it's a start /stop car.
The battery I bought says on the side good for 380,000 stop starts.
Why go cheap on a valuable car with lots of electrical gizmos.
 
Before I became enlightened to the world of straight 6 petrol BMWs I had an E87 facelift 123d with stop/start (I know, I'm sorry)! :oops:

Anyway soon after the starter motor died (£600ish) the battery light came on. Great, I thought - at least it told me before it died!

But when I looked into replacement costs I was less impressed as it was an AGM battery and needed to be coded - so another £250 wallet lightener! (It lasted nearly 6 years IIRC).

And soon after that I got my first Z4, so the E87 became someone else's problem (before the N47 engine wrecked itself due to the cam-chain issue)! :lol:
 
Devon Eleven said:
Had the same issue recently, swapped the four year old Yuasa AGM battery for the old trusty Bosch S5 and all is well on my E85 2.5i.
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AGM is a waste on the e85 anyway and lots of people ruin them with a standard charger which quickly kills them. I've got the original BMW 2003 date stamped battery in my e85 and it's still going strong (but surely can't last MUCH longer, can it?).

If AGM was original fit then stick with it, if not then you are unlikely to see any advantage in an AGM for the extra cost.
 
Ewazix said:
Devon Eleven said:
Had the same issue recently, swapped the four year old Yuasa AGM battery for the old trusty Bosch S5 and all is well on my E85 2.5i.
Click to expand...

AGM is a waste on the e85 anyway and lots of people ruin them with a standard charger which quickly kills them. I've got the original BMW 2003 date stamped battery in my e85 and it's still going strong (but surely can't last MUCH longer, can it?).

If AGM was original fit then stick with it, if not then you are unlikely to see any advantage in an AGM for the extra cost.
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Agree entirely with avoiding AGM if it was not original fit!

But just to avoid any confusion the OP has a 2010 E89, so I'm guessing that did come with AGM and therefore still needs AGM.
 
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