Battery Charging

T

Titan

Member
 North Yorkshire
In this glorious summer weather, the Z hasn't been used as much as I would have hoped :(

I know battery drain can be an issue when these cars are left idle for more than a few days and many have opted for CTEK conditioners and the like. Although I have no objection to going down this route, I have a perfectly good (Gunson) charger/float charger which I would like to use if possible.

My problem is that the car lives outside and I need to get mains power to the Gunson and connections to the battery. Rather than running a 240v extension lead out to the car and squashing it with the boot lid seals, can anyone tell me whether extending the 12v cables (and keeping the charger indoors) is a practical alternative? I can then see the state of charge without having to go to the car.

I'm not an electrical engineer but am aware of voltage drop and current loss etc but would have thought some reasonable flex (1sq.mm?) should suffice. I can probably manage with about 10ft (3m) on the 12v side. Any comments or advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks.
 
As long as you have everything waterproofed, 3m shouldn't be much of an issue - it's definitely something that at least some of the manufacturers support e.g. CTEK sell 2.5m extension cables for their chargers which puts the 12v side at well over 3m
 
Thanks Perry
I was considering running some flat, double-insulated 240v flex under the rear edge of the boot lid and "crocodiling" directly on to the battery terminals. The concept of running a mains lead into the car and having the charger in the boot wasn't too appealing.
 
You can connect the charger terminals under the bonnet: +ve terminal is on the N/S of the bulkhead under a black plastic cover which can be removed and the -ve terminal is on the N/S suspension tower. You can connect 12v cabling directly to those terminals and let the wire pass out from under the bonnet between the corner of the bonnet and the N/S headlamp unit. Just make sure that the wire doesn't pass over the bonnet catch when it's being fastened. This way you can lock the car and alarm it. :thumbsup:
 
I don't know the physical layout and constraints you'd be working under but if I were looking at something like that as a (semi-)permanent solution, I'd look at purchasing a marine-grade waterproof 12v plug & socket and mount the 12v socket on an outside wall near the car - ideally drilling through the wall and running the 12v feed wire from inside. Then it's a simple task to make up a lead with the 12v plug on one end and a suitable connector on the other end.

I'd probably buy a short CTEK lead with eyelet battery connectors at one end and their quick release connector at the other as this could stay permanently connected either directly to the battery or to the under-bonnet terminals leaving the quick release connector accessible, and one of the CTEK extension leads and fit the 12v plug to one end as this would give a quick and easy method of connecting the wall socket to the car
 
Thanks Guys

@ Exdos:
Thanks for this idea. I reverse the car right up to the garage door and can then connect easily in the boot even when it's raining. This avoids the need to do any work under the bonnet and eliminates the length of front to rear vehicle harness. If it wasn't for the accumulated kids' paraphernalia, pushbikes, freezer, fridge etc, the Zed would be in the garage!
The car is still alarmed but the disadvantage is the wire is sandwiched against the bottom of the boot lip seal - hence wanting to use a thin flex.

@Perry:
You're talking to a Yorkshire man here! Although I'd be happy to purchase, as you can see from my reply to Exdos, I can work in fairly close proximity to car, garage and 240v supply.
If it proves to be a frequent necessity, then I will do some along these lines you have suggested. I like the idea of the marine grade kit - especially with the weather like it is outside today!
 
Titan said:
@ Exdos:
Thanks for this idea. I reverse the car right up to the garage door and can then connect easily in the boot even when it's raining. This avoids the need to do any work under the bonnet and eliminates the length of front to rear vehicle harness. If it wasn't for the accumulated kids' paraphernalia, pushbikes, freezer, fridge etc, the Zed would be in the garage!
The car is still alarmed but the disadvantage is the wire is sandwiched against the bottom of the boot lip seal - hence wanting to use a thin flex.
Click to expand...

Charger_zpsnlw4owvd.jpg
This is my car on charge now. All you need to do is remove the crocodile clips from the ends of the charger cables and then connect them to a length of thinnish PVC covered 2 core cable and strip the ends. Refit the crocodile clips to the other ends of the wire and the job's a good 'un.

If you haven't got a suitable piece of wire lying around pop into B&Q/Homebase and you'll easily find an appropriate sized cable for the job.

It's far easier connecting the charger to the connections under the bonnet than having to faff around removing the battery cover etc. in the boot. :thumbsup:

Adding a few metres to the leads won't make much difference to charging, after all, how long are some of the wires in the looms of lorries?
 
Thanks again - I like the sneaky outlet slot. You've almost convinced me!
I'll post a pic of my version of Heath Robinson when I connect up :thumbsup:
Unfortunately it won't be tonight as we have to meet some friends in the pub :cheers:
The things I do to keep my wife happy ...........
 
Hello

I run a 4 meter length with 1.5mm squared flex, at 12v and full 10amp load the volt drop is minimal

and yes I am a qualified electrician

some pics







I added the ammeter so I could see the real load

regards
 
If you want to reverse up to the garage, you don't have to keep getting access to the battery, the CTEK battery leads are made to remain permantly connected and have a latching quick connector that you can leave exposed and just plug the charger into. They also do a panel-fit version which I've seen mounted on the battery box in an ///M

The version I use has red/amber/green LEDs that flash about once per second to show the charge state of the battery
CTEK_1.jpg
 
jamesbond said:
I run a 4 meter length with 1.5mm squared flex, at 12v and full 10amp load the volt drop is minimal

Click to expand...

Thanks Nick - more useful ideas and an interesting picture .....
What is the third wire coiled up under the CTEK for? Is it the temperature sensor?

On a completely separate note, is the aqua clean filter system any good at preventing water marks?
 
jamesbond said:
Hello

I run a 4 meter length with 1.5mm squared flex, at 12v and full 10amp load the volt drop is minimal

and yes I am a qualified electrician

some pics







I added the ammeter so I could see the real load

regards
Click to expand...


Hello

Yes the other wire is for the temperature sensor which I use just to measure the ambient air in the garage .. Also you are correct that is a Aqua gleam cartridge that leaves ours cars totally spotless with no water marks, but due t the good advice from this forum I am going to change the manufacture to a more long term cheaper model and that can be refilled with new resin ... its now so easy to wash and rinse our cars and keep marks and scratches to a minimum .. regards
JB
 
TitanTim said:
This all sounds familiar, not using the Zed then Terry :lol:
Tim.
Click to expand...

Sadly not enough to keep the battery sweet Tim :thumbsdown:
But as you know it's not mine it's "hers" :roll:
My daily gets plenty of use but I'm not commuting in the Zed just to keep it charged :cry:
 
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