audio question!

S

SlammedZ4

Member
Hi i have the 10 speaker system with the amp next to my battery, sat nav, cd changer, dsp, subs behind the seats. I want to fit my own install i have purchased two amps and a set of components and am searching for some subs. the main issue i am having it finding out how to get the sound to my amp as no pre outs on the head unit, how can i get rca's. As i thought when unplugging the amp at least a few speakers would still work meaning i could use a convertor, but there is no sound when unplugging the amp so where do i get my sound from to run to the amps? i am going to run all my speakers and subs off of my own two amps so will be routing my own speaker cables so all i need is a rca output any help would be great as im stuck on this one.
 
Try the search button, a few threads on this I believe. IIRC the DSP top range speakers are very hard to upgrade due to the digital signal they use I believe, could be wrong, but at the very least you'll have to upgrade the head unit and probs most the speakers to get them working with aftermarket amps.
Sure someone else with more experience will chime in though. Good luck
 
Hi

As above can tricky, do you want to keep existing kit? If you have comp speakers (new) and two amps, just get a 6inch Jl SUb and a new head unit. :thumbsup:
 
Or get a Audioson BIT10 if you want to keep your OEM head unit, or a head unit + single DIN adaptor with RAC outs to connect up to your new amp.

http://www.audison.eu/index.php?page=product&id=41
 
sammysquid said:
The headunits are all the same, there isn't a DSP / None dsp headunit.
I come back the original point, you are keeping the original speakers? so you I assume you don't really need stupid amounts of RMS per channel. Why don't you get a bm54 modd'd by the nice chap in London who does it, he can add you an amp to give 40 watts rms on the channels, this would give you enough for the standard speakers, he can also add pre-outs to the standard bmw headunit (there are guides to do both these mods yourself if you feel you wish to) then you have a headunit with 40w rms on the four channels, you have a set of preouts for the subs. I seem to believe he charges less than £100 for the mods so would leave you sorted for a cheap sub and amp setup.
I wouldn't stick the amp back in the boot pit, I would stick it to the rear firewall - this would cut down cable run and also prevent it having the same fate as the original amp.

The current loom runs round the back of the boot and into the pit and I think it would be just long enough to enable you to take the feeds from the amp and put them into the headunit directly, and then remove the current wires from the headunit to the now redundant amp. It would be a bit of work but nothing that is beyond you I'm sure.

Actually you could leave the amp wires in the boot, take them to the firewall and you could fit crossovers there onto the wires directly and then run new wires from the headunit down the centre tunnel to these crossovers. That would keep it neat as well as giving you somewhere to put the crossovers.
The only thing I would suggest might be a slight hiccup is that the front right speaker is dual coil to allow the Bluetooth setup to work and thus you would make adding a new oem Bluetooth hard but I would suggest you would be more happy with a parrot or the like given the lack of nav screen anyway.
Click to expand...

Very easy to do based on the quoted post (taken from here). Just get a decent line-out converter and it should work as normal.
 
I want to keep the oem head unit and navigation screen. Which wires do I get the remote from and the sound to convert to pre outs from the loom that plugs into my carver amp?
 
you can to get the amp to turn on and off, but I'd imagine there would be an amp turn on already for the factory amp.

Poke about with a multimeter and you'll have your answer there.
 
What at the plug in the boot? So I only have to run a short wire to the amps. Also I take it I need to run two in line rca convertor as I am going to run 2 amps ?
 
Where are the wires located so I can use the rca convertor ? Take it sound still goes there if the amp isn't connected it's just that there isn't any power from the amp when disconnected to power the speakers?
 
Might help if you list the equipment you're going to use.

Some amps have built in line out converters and have the ability to pass through the signal.

What is your primary goal for wanting to upgrade? Given the complexity, you do run the risk of reducing the sq through 'upgrading' parts.
 
alpine bbx-f1200 all I want to know is where I can locate a remote and can I just connect a rca convertor to the original speaker wires without the standard amp being connected and it will still allow me to have a rca from the rear speaker wires that already exist?
 
Use the Left and Right signal input to the amp from the head unit.

Left + - GE/RT
Left - - BR/OR
Right + BL/RT
Right - BR/OR

Pins 38, 30, 9 and 17 respectively on connector X10266
 
just wire a rca convertor behind the headunit to the wires you have specified above and then all I need is a remote cable and wallah it will work? sorry whats the X10266 connector?
 
this is what I have bought? could you do me a favour and do me a diagram of which wires on the kit I have bought go to which colour on the headunit also do I just splice into the cars loom or cut and solder the new wires in without connecting them back to where I cut them sorry for all the questions, just never worked on audio stuff with a standard headunit with no rcas
 
X10266 is the plug which goes onto the amp.

The four wires above are the L and R signal from the head unit. Thats what you can use for your RCA converter unless you have an amp which takes line inputs where you just feed the L and R signals in.

I don't think the E85 uses balanced differential inputs like the later cars.
 
Get a meter and check pins 5, 18 and 26 at the amp, once again connector X10266.

One of them is permanent 12V, one is GND and one is switched 12V.

Connector X10266 therefore contains your L and R input, 12V, GND and switched 12V - everything you need.

It also contains the outputs to the 10 speakers.
 
My 18, or KBUS signal, gets 12v at all times as well. Pin 5 is positive, and 26 is ground. Any other ideas for the signal wire?

9, 17, 30, and 38 are definitely the inputs. It helps to notice that they are all in the same "column" as well. Tested each of them, and they all have 6v whereas none of the other ones were 6v
 
Maybe pin 27 according to this document?

http://www.gbmini.net/downloads/HKconnections.pdf

Weird that the sources conflict though. It says pin 18 isn't used which it definitely is on my wiring. Whereas its correct about all the other ones.
 
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