Are all Autos like this?

[Silverstar]

If I could get that coded on my 20i it would help.

I agree, but coding is only possible if all the required hardware is there

let me know if you need help with trying the software part out, I have a 23i so I couldn't

As the hill start system apparently works with a manual box has it any effect on an automatic? My experience of automatics is that in ‘drive’ the car tends to creep forwards not backwards. Certainly my 6 speed automatic will hold on a slope for much longer than the 2 seconds the hill start system is supposed to work for.

I believe it does work on the E89 automatics (well at least on the 30i if not the 20i), BMW autos certainly anything newer than the E46 do creep backwards on a hill, my old E46 5 speed auto did. But this E89 doesn't for a few seconds. According to the manual the car has hill assist and holds for a few seconds after you release the brakes, seems to work on mine.

 

[R.E92]

The hill start should work independently of the gearbox. I have disabled creeping on my DCT but it still doesn't roll back on hills so there must be some function holding the brakes.

 

[BadgerDog]

The hill start should work independently of the gearbox. I have disabled creeping on my DCT but it still doesn't roll back on hills so there must be some function holding the brakes.

OOOOH, how do you disable the creep? I expected it to act more like a manual when I take my foot off the brake and this intrigues me. Is it a coding option? I recently picked up BimmerGeeks protool and it seems to be able to code about anything so I'd be keen to give this a go.

 

[tintoverano]

The hill start should work independently of the gearbox. I have disabled creeping on my DCT but it still doesn't roll back on hills so there must be some function holding the brakes.

OOOOH, how do you disable the creep? I expected it to act more like a manual when I take my foot off the brake and this intrigues me. Is it a coding option? I recently picked up BimmerGeeks protool and it seems to be able to code about anything so I'd be keen to give this a go.

read out DSC with NCSExpert, load the trace file (.TRC) to NCSDummy and find this option in the list and set it to inactive then code the DSC with the resulting .MAN file

 

[R.E92]

The hill start should work independently of the gearbox. I have disabled creeping on my DCT but it still doesn't roll back on hills so there must be some function holding the brakes.

OOOOH, how do you disable the creep? I expected it to act more like a manual when I take my foot off the brake and this intrigues me. Is it a coding option? I recently picked up BimmerGeeks protool and it seems to be able to code about anything so I'd be keen to give this a go.

You have to use xHP to do it, currently the only method of editing the DCT code. Costs £180 for the basic customisations of which disabling creep is one.

 

[Zikim]

You have to use xHP to do it, currently the only method of editing the DCT code. Costs £180 for the basic customisations of which disabling creep is one.

What else can be done with xHP to the DCT code?

 

[R.E92]

You have to use xHP to do it, currently the only method of editing the DCT code. Costs £180 for the basic customisations of which disabling creep is one.

What else can be done with xHP to the DCT code?

Pretty much anything can be changed. The default maps are listed on the xHP website

- Torque Limiters removed
- Line Pressure max. 19 Bar
- Removed Automatic Upshift in Manual
- Removed Kickdown in Manual
- Super-Fast shifting on M3 GTS Level (90 ms, Sport and DSC OFF)
- Revised Shiftmaps with very comfy shiftpoints in D, more sportive but still daily-drive shifting in D+Sport
- Launch Control RPM set to 4000 (adjustable through App)
- Optimized Kickdown Take-Off for proper acceleration
- Raised downshift limits in Manual

Getting a bit off-topic though, I did make a post about the app already so best asking questions there.

 

[BadgerDog]

Oh booo. I dont need yet ANOTHER software tool to get. =\

I'm more focused right now on correcting some of the wrongs like replacing the charge pipe before it cracks and swapping out the salmon relays for the roof. Guess I can put this on my "maybe someday" list.

 

[R.E92]

Oh booo. I dont need yet ANOTHER software tool to get. =\

I'm more focused right now on correcting some of the wrongs like replacing the charge pipe before it cracks and swapping out the salmon relays for the roof. Guess I can put this on my "maybe someday" list.

Salmon relays are a good shout but there's no reason at all to replace the charge pipe unless you have a problem with it, it doesn't fail on the E89.

 

[engine killer]

Oh booo. I dont need yet ANOTHER software tool to get. =\

I'm more focused right now on correcting some of the wrongs like replacing the charge pipe before it cracks and swapping out the salmon relays for the roof. Guess I can put this on my "maybe someday" list.

Salmon relays are a good shout but there's no reason at all to replace the charge pipe unless you have a problem with it, it doesn't fail on the E89.

changing the relays were just "piece of cake" even for me, so i believe most car enthusiast with a little mechanical mind can do it probably.

i have the charge pipe replaced at the same time when having the intercooler upgrade (done by professional). did a research about the charge pipe in E89 and yes it seems far more reliable compare to other N54 equipped chassis

 

[BadgerDog]

Hmm, good to know, guess I need to do some digging. I screwed up and bought the wrong part (in fairness, Burgertuning.com has it HORRIBLY labeled on their site... stated simply as an N54 E chassis part... well I have an E chassis!). So I'll either be sending that back or selling it on fleabay since they have an asinine return policy (20% restock fee, despite the fact it was never on a car and can be resold with nothing more than a cursory inspection...).

So depending on what happens maybe I wont bother upgrading it. Now, would your opinion change if a person were running a JB4/MHD tune on the car? Nothing too aggressive, still just pump gas, but it WILL put some extra stress on it.

 

[BMWZ4MC]

I have an E89 20i with the 8 speed ZF auto box. Wanted an auto as I struggle with my left ankle and it's the first one I've owned, although I have driven a couple of others some years ago.

Now, in normal driving it's perfect. My problem is very slow speed manoeuvring like when I'm parking on an incline. I always thought that in Drive the car wouldn't roll back, but it does quite a bit. If you give the throttle a press there's too much grunt going to the wheels and I'm in danger of bumping into the car in front or behind. Seems it's difficult if not impossible to have the same control you get by holding the car on the clutch biting point. Doesn't help that you can't release the electric handbrake unless you're pressing the footbrake, so as soon as you move your foot to the accelerator it's already started to roll.

Now - are all automatics like this or is it just mine? And if it's a common thing, how do you smoothly parallel park on a slope?

I’ve had a similar experience whilst manoeuvring on slopes or on the flat in various automatic cars that have poor throttle modulation from stationary. The inability to creep backwards or forwards at extremely slow speed (as you can by just bringing the clutch to the bite point at idle in a manual) is especially annoying.
I don’t think you are describing a fault, simply the nature of automatics. It is most problematic on an incline in a torquey car with poor throttle modulation and without a hill-hold function, where left foot braking is the only practical solution.

 

[Ming]

I have an E89 20i with the 8 speed ZF auto box. Wanted an auto as I struggle with my left ankle and it's the first one I've owned, although I have driven a couple of others some years ago.

Now, in normal driving it's perfect. My problem is very slow speed manoeuvring like when I'm parking on an incline. I always thought that in Drive the car wouldn't roll back, but it does quite a bit. If you give the throttle a press there's too much grunt going to the wheels and I'm in danger of bumping into the car in front or behind. Seems it's difficult if not impossible to have the same control you get by holding the car on the clutch biting point. Doesn't help that you can't release the electric handbrake unless you're pressing the footbrake, so as soon as you move your foot to the accelerator it's already started to roll.

Now - are all automatics like this or is it just mine? And if it's a common thing, how do you smoothly parallel park on a slope?

I’ve had a similar experience whilst manoeuvring on slopes or on the flat in various automatic cars that have poor throttle modulation from stationary. The inability to creep backwards or forwards at extremely slow speed (as you can by just bringing the clutch to the bite point at idle in a manual) is especially annoying.
I don’t think you are describing a fault, simply the nature of automatics. It is most problematic on an incline in a torquey car with poor throttle modulation and without a hill-hold function, where left foot braking is the only practical solution.

Thank you. That's the explanation I was hoping for. I will try the left foot braking and see how I get on.
Or just never park on a slope

 

[Carl69]

As others have said this should not happen. I have the 2.0l 8 speed zf autobox and in drive the car does not roll back at all. Suggest you have a mechanic look at this. Hope it's nothing expensive.