Anybody know about small bodywork repairs?

[Pondy]

Hello,

I have repaired a few marks on the plastics of my e89 (Alpine white paint).

I think I masked the area a bit "tight", as the paint overspray on the non-damaged area is now raised. I can't post a picture, it won't show up as it's white-on-white. The paint colour match is good but I now have what looks exactly like a perfectly matched piece of masking tape over the damage; ie you can see (and feel) the edge lines.

I need to take the paint back a bit to blend the raised area into the original paintwork before spraying with clearcoat. Does anybody know the best way to do this without damaging a larger area? I was thinking of sanding the newly painted area with 1200 grit paper until the raised edges are gone and then lacquer. a friend of mine suggested several goes with T cut to get rid of the excess paint. Which would you recommend?

Any advice appreciated before I make it worse! :?

 

[Chippie]

I’d use Tcut, put a cloth over a block of wood and gently rub the newly painted area until you have removed the lip, the new paint will be soft so take your time and keep wiping down to check how much you have taken off, if you have used primer up to the masked edge then you will never get rid of the edge showing, if so you could always blow over it again with base coat to blend it in, then Tcut and clear coat

 

[Zedebee]

The Festool denibber is an excellent (and reassuringly expensive) device for removing paint blemishes, sags etc.

 

[Z4paul]

You could use the 1200 or go to 2500 and use it wet, depending how noticeable the ridge /raised line is that you are trying to lose. When your ready to use base and / or the clear you want avoid the risk of a hard line so try this - use a sheet of heavy stock paper / light card and stick one edge to the bodywork with the paper /card then allowed to bend back on itself and that edge stuck with masking tape, the goal is to have the closet part of gradual bend in the paper/card 10 centimeters or so from the repair. This can work really well and can mean your repair /area you need to paint doesn't grow !! Vary the angle of the can to make the most of this idea and light frequent coats rather than one / two heavy coats. Good luck

 

[Pondy]

You could use the 1200 or go to 2500 and use it wet, depending how noticeable the ridge /raised line is that you are trying to lose. When your ready to use base and / or the clear you want avoid the risk of a hard line so try this - use a sheet of heavy stock paper / light card and stick one edge to the bodywork with the paper /card then allowed to bend back on itself and that edge stuck with masking tape, the goal is to have the closet part of gradual bend in the paper/card 10 centimeters or so from the repair. This can work really well and can mean your repair /area you need to paint doesn't grow !! Vary the angle of the can to make the most of this idea and light frequent coats rather than one / two heavy coats. Good luck

I think I know what you mean. So make a sort of a tented masked area?

 

[Z4paul]

You could use the 1200 or go to 2500 and use it wet, depending how noticeable the ridge /raised line is that you are trying to lose. When your ready to use base and / or the clear you want avoid the risk of a hard line so try this - use a sheet of heavy stock paper / light card and stick one edge to the bodywork with the paper /card then allowed to bend back on itself and that edge stuck with masking tape, the goal is to have the closet part of gradual bend in the paper/card 10 centimeters or so from the repair. This can work really well and can mean your repair /area you need to paint doesn't grow !! Vary the angle of the can to make the most of this idea and light frequent coats rather than one / two heavy coats. Good luck

I think I know what you mean. So make a sort of a tented masked area?

Will take a pic of this for you.

 

[Z4paul]

Horrible outside but this captures the principle - stops overspray and depending on colour and how you spray it should avoid obvious lines and blend in well. You might want to do the same but a little further from the repair when using clear - trial and error but idea from a professional, which i am not

 

[Pondy]

Horrible outside but this captures the principle - stops overspray and depending on colour and how you spray it should avoid obvious lines and blend in well. You might want to do the same but a little further from the repair when using clear - trial and error but idea from a professional, which i am not

Bless you for going to so much trouble, thanks :drinkwine:

 

[Z4paul]

Horrible outside but this captures the principle - stops overspray and depending on colour and how you spray it should avoid obvious lines and blend in well. You might want to do the same but a little further from the repair when using clear - trial and error but idea from a professional, which i am not

Bless you for going to so much trouble, thanks :drinkwine:

No trouble at all, i have benefitted from many offers of help myself so happy to
offer what i can, good luck with this

 

[john-e89]

Not wanting to piddle on Paul’s cracking idea but you can also get soft edge masking foam tape for vehicle painting.

 

[Smartbear]

Not wanting to piddle on Paul’s cracking idea but you can also get soft edge masking foam tape for vehicle painting.

Are you sure that’s not plasticine?
Rob

 

[Z4paul]

Not wanting to piddle on Paul’s cracking idea but you can also get soft edge masking foam tape for vehicle painting.

Hi john, just wondered if you have used this and if so in what circumstances /panels and any tips on using it. Cheers for any feedback + hope the new venture is shaping up

 

[Lynchy]

Whereabouts are you Z4Paul. If you are fairly local to me I could have a look for you and offer the best advice

 

[Z4paul]

Pm sent