Any recommendations for sound deadening

[Worcester_spoon]

About to take the door cards off, so a good opo to add some extra sound deadening in the doors.

Any recommendations of what to use for those who've done this?

Stu

 

[PerryGunn]

I used Silent Coat, worked well and easy to apply

Write up of the installation here: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=53812

 

[Worcester_spoon]

Thanks Perry - I need to learn to use the search tool a bit better!

Do I need to leave the airbag 30 mins after disconnecting the battery?

 

[markplant]

I used skinz , really happy with results

 

[PerryGunn]

Thanks Perry - I need to learn to use the search tool a bit better!

Do I need to leave the airbag 30 mins after disconnecting the battery?

You only need to wait long enough that any residual charge in capacitors etc. has drained away - 10 mins should be more than adequate but people often give a 'belt & braces' estimate of 30 mins

 

[d3matt]

Have you watched this?
[youtube]Oe6GOTybE1U[/youtube]

I guess he's using something like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-multiseal-butyl-flashing-tape-grey-150mm-x-10m/94203#product_additional_details_container

 

[Scooba_Steve]

Thanks Perry - I need to learn to use the search tool a bit better!

Do I need to leave the airbag 30 mins after disconnecting the battery?

You only need to wait long enough that any residual charge in capacitors etc. has drained away - 10 mins should be more than adequate but people often give a 'belt & braces' estimate of 30 mins

When I worked for a fire service a steering wheel was thrown onto a junk pile having been disconnected from a vehicle for over a week. It deployed.
Give at least 30 mins and then treat the damn things with a lot of caution, certainly keep well clear unless absolutely necessary.

 

[Worcester_spoon]

Thanks Perry - I need to learn to use the search tool a bit better!

Do I need to leave the airbag 30 mins after disconnecting the battery?

You only need to wait long enough that any residual charge in capacitors etc. has drained away - 10 mins should be more than adequate but people often give a 'belt & braces' estimate of 30 mins

When I worked for a fire service a steering wheel was thrown onto a junk pile having been disconnected from a vehicle for over a week. It deployed.
Give at least 30 mins and then treat the damn things with a lot of caution, certainly keep well clear unless absolutely necessary.

I hear ya! 30 mins for me. My mechanic buddy also told me to store it under the car, just in case it goes pop.

 

[PerryGunn]

When I worked for a fire service a steering wheel was thrown onto a junk pile having been disconnected from a vehicle for over a week. It deployed.
Give at least 30 mins and then treat the damn things with a lot of caution, certainly keep well clear unless absolutely necessary.

That's a different situation, there's no way you can call that a vehicle initiated deployment - you can't do anything about a faulty unit that spontaneously deploys or, in your case, one that reacted to the shock of being 'thrown onto a junk pile'

As with anything that contains an 'explosive' charge, you should treat airbags carefully when removing/storing them

 

[Scooba_Steve]

But equally it shows that they can deploy with impact forces. Once the battery is disconnected I'm not concerned with the vehicle commanding deployment, rather the unit deploying itself. The more caution the better, avoiding impact and making sure a unit disconnected is left somewhere out of harms way. Essentially don't think they can't deploy just because they're not connected or removed.

 

[john-e89]

About to take the door cards off, so a good opo to add some extra sound deadening in the doors.

Any recommendations of what to use for those who've done this?

Stu

Might be worth noting that you can get different thicknesses of proofing depending on the application. If you're doing the door skin itself, you can use the thickest available whereas doing the door panel that houses the door card you'll need some thinner proofing. Likewise doing the floor pan or boot lining for eg, would use thickest then move to thinner where interior panels are situated. Dynamat is very good but is expensive. From memory Perry's write up was very good and well worth a read.

 

[Worcester_spoon]

Might be worth noting that you can get different thicknesses of proofing depending on the application. If you're doing the door skin itself, you can use the thickest available whereas doing the door panel that houses the door card you'll need some thinner proofing. Likewise doing the floor pan or boot lining for eg, would use thickest then move to thinner where interior panels are situated. Dynamat is very good but is expensive. From memory Perry's write up was very good and well worth a read.

Thanks John - I've read Perry's write up and have bought some silent coat - gone with just 2mm and will double up, as per his suggestions at the end. Only doing the doors initially - not sure of the benefits of the floor or boot, given the roof is open most of the time! Just want the doors to stop sounding like a tin can over actual sound reduction.

 

[Scooba_Steve]

Worth considering adding some foam along with the mat.

 

[john-e89]

Might be worth noting that you can get different thicknesses of proofing depending on the application. If you're doing the door skin itself, you can use the thickest available whereas doing the door panel that houses the door card you'll need some thinner proofing. Likewise doing the floor pan or boot lining for eg, would use thickest then move to thinner where interior panels are situated. Dynamat is very good but is expensive. From memory Perry's write up was very good and well worth a read.

Thanks John - I've read Perry's write up and have bought some silent coat - gone with just 2mm and will double up, as per his suggestions at the end. Only doing the doors initially - not sure of the benefits of the floor or boot, given the roof is open most of the time! Just want the doors to stop sounding like a tin can over actual sound reduction.

No unless you're doing a proper install the floor and boot are probably not worth bothering with, it was more of an example of the thickness of material you would use and where. I've heard Markplants drivers door which has soundproofing as opposed to his passengers which has'nt and the difference is startling so you're definately not wasting your time.

Hope you're happy when it's done, I'm sure you will be.