Another Z4 Roof Issue - FIXED + Some other stuff planned for new Z4

[Colinl]

Hi all, new to the group, love reading all of the post's.
Bought myself a N52 E89 a month ago 53k on the clock.
Was interested in what Matt Rowley 199 said about this
I ask this to every E89 owner with an N52 -

Has it had the VANOS bolt recall performed? If not, get it booked in as you’ll have your top end gaskets replaced by BMW for free as part of the work.

How do I find out mine has been done please

Colin

 

[B21]

Hi all, new to the group, love reading all of the post's.
Bought myself a N52 E89 a month ago 53k on the clock.
Was interested in what Matt Rowley 199 said about this
I ask this to every E89 owner with an N52 -

Has it had the VANOS bolt recall performed? If not, get it booked in as you’ll have your top end gaskets replaced by BMW for free as part of the work.

How do I find out mine has been done please

Colin

Contact any bmw service centre , they should be able to see based on the vin

 

[RobbiZ4]

So in summary and in my case Error A696 was infact a microswitch not the Hallsensor the code scanner has you think,

To be honest, this assumption is wrong. Only a rusty or a missing hall sensor can place this fault code.
In parallel there was a 2nd fault (the broken/missing spring), that didn't place a fault code.

..., but if I am correct @RobbiZ4 you said that microswitch does not return a scan code error? so you have to troubleshoot this one manually as such?

Well, that is technology!
We/you need to distinguish between physical/technical and logical errors.

A single sensor that functions and reports a logical correct status to the CTM, is fine and not defective. However, if there are two sensors on each side of the vehicle, a logical error can occur if one reports "I am open" and the other "I am closed."

Since this will occur sooner or later in all E89s, I made a clear recommendation years ago to replace these microswitch couplings as a precaution.

 

[Lyons]

That’s a fantastic write up. I’ve had the hall sensors and microswitches sitting in the garage for about 6 months and keep putting it off, but that (coupled with Robbi’s threads) has just given me the confidence to have a go tomorrow.

I got the hall sensors done- my soldering iron has somehow lost the tip, so it took ages trying to complete the job without it!



As a result I only got as far as stripping the trim and painting the nuts while attempting the microswitches. Trying to balance work at the same time so will finish them tomorrow!

Out of interest what side do 585 and 586 go on?

Can you do both sides at once with the boot propped, or do you need to complete one side at a time so there is always one hinge connected?

 

[RobbiZ4]

Out of interest what side do 585 and 586 go on?Out of interest what side do 585 and 586 go on?

Doesn't matter, as you can't mount it on the wrong side. 4x M3x5mm allen screws are recommended for this replacement, as the old ones may get destroyed while disassembling.

Can you do both sides at once with the boot propped, or do you need to complete one side at a time so there is always one hinge connected?

One after another, as you have to support the whole trunk lid frame with i.e. a broom stick.

 

[Lyons]

Thanks. Would you advise holding off from starting it until I get the replacement screws?

I’ll maybe just have a go then I can nip out and get them if required. Do the heads get rung when removing, or how come replacements are needed?

 

[RobbiZ4]

Thanks. Would you advise holding off from starting it until I get the replacement screws?

I’ll maybe just have a go then I can nip out and get them if required. Do the heads get rung when removing, or how come replacements are needed?

I generally drill the old screws out, as they are glued with loctite. Their tiny allen head is very weak and can or will be destroyed when trying to get it out. Clear yes, try to get some new screws to be save.

 

[Lyons]

Do they need to be a specific head type, or will any do? No issues with clearance for a cap head for example?

 

[RobbiZ4]

Do they need to be a specific head type, or will any do?

M3x5mm allen screws with standard heads.

 

[Lyons]

I found some M3x6mm bolts in my garage. From looking at the microswitch in-situ I don’t think the additional 1mm of thread would cause any issues if I were just to use them?

I removed the pins from the original connector and on the new connector and both appear to be pretty similar. I didn’t get time to get a proper look, but is there no way the new pins would fit in the old connector housing? It’s maybe just the bottom that crimps around the wire that might be a bit bigger on the new pins. Nothing that couldn’t be squeezed though?!

 

[RobbiZ4]

I found some M3x6mm bolts in my garage. From looking at the microswitch in-situ I don’t think the additional 1mm of thread would cause any issues if I were just to use them?

Give it a try, should work. On of these two screws has a restriction in length, the other even fits with 10mm.

I removed the pins from the original connector and on the new connector and both appear to be pretty similar. I didn’t get time to get a proper look, but is there no way the new pins would fit in the old connector housing? It’s maybe just the bottom that crimps around the wire that might be a bit bigger on the new pins. Nothing that couldn’t be squeezed though?!

The idea is correct, but it's a bit more tricky:
- "destroy"/remove the oval housings of the new MS to unpin the 2 MQS pins
- pull the green gummis out of the MS pins
- recrimp the MQS pins at the back end without the gummi
- put the 2 MQS pins into the old housings
- pin orientation doesn't matter for the microswitches, thats different on hall sensors!

 

[Lyons]

Thanks. I broke the housing and got the green gummis off, but I can’t find my crimping tool. I’ll maybe just try squashing it with pliers and see if I can get them pushed in!

Can’t believe I procrastinated over this for so long, wish I’d just bitten the bullet and started sooner.

Fingers crossed it actually solves my issue though .

 

[Lyons]

I fear I have made a balls- not sure on the severity! I marked the nuts as instructed prior to removing the bracket, however it was only after removing the nuts on 1 side I realised I should’ve marked the position of the nut on the bracket, whereas I marked the nut on the white thread as I assumed I was marking to get the right tightness .

I’ve put them back on and just centralised each in the hole. Am I safe enough to close the roof and hope for the best!? Is it a case of adjusting the nut if the roof sits too low/high, or could I risk doing some damage?

Luckily I was able to mark the other side correctly after I realised, so it is ok.

 

[Lyons]

Had a go anyway and it was just sitting a bit low at that side. So undid the nuts and lifted up a tad. Seems to be ok now.

At least the roof is working after the sensor and switch swap out, fingers crossed it keeps it up!

Interestingly one of the microswitches had been replaced before. The wires seem to have been nipped behind the bracket, so not sure if that could’ve been causing an issue. The blue connectors wouldn’t have helped matters either.

 

[B21]

Had a go anyway and it was just sitting a bit low at that side. So undid the nuts and lifted up a tad. Seems to be ok now.

At least the roof is working after the sensor and switch swap out, fingers crossed it keeps it up!

Interestingly one of the microswitches had been replaced before. The wires seem to have been nipped behind the bracket, so not sure if that could’ve been causing an issue. The blue connectors wouldn’t have helped matters either.

View attachment 290648
View attachment 290649

Quality repair…

 

[Matt.rowley.1990]

Hi all, new to the group, love reading all of the post's.
Bought myself a N52 E89 a month ago 53k on the clock.
Was interested in what Matt Rowley 199 said about this
I ask this to every E89 owner with an N52 -

Has it had the VANOS bolt recall performed? If not, get it booked in as you’ll have your top end gaskets replaced by BMW for free as part of the work.

How do I find out mine has been done please

Colin

You can enter your registration details on the BMW recall checker.

 

[RobbiZ4]

No prob.
With your experience the position slightly can be readjusted, if you see the trunk lid being a bit too high or too low after closing. It's sth. that can be avoided when marking the original position with a white edding pen "around" the nuts!

Always, always orientate on the originals: nuts, positions, zip ties, cablings, whatever. No individual creativity!

That's the reason why you never should work in parallel on both sides of the car, just to keep one side original.

 

[RobbiZ4]

Hi all, new to the group, love reading all of the post's.
Bought myself a N52 E89 a month ago 53k on the clock. Was interested in what Matt Rowley 199 said about this I ask this to every E89 owner with an N52 - Has it had the VANOS bolt recall performed? If not, get it booked in as you’ll have your top end gaskets replaced by BMW for free as part of the work. How do I find out mine has been done please
Colin

Contact any bmw service centre , they should be able to see based on the vin

You can enter your registration details on the BMW recall checker.

I don't understand why this topic gets discussed in a roof repair thread.

VIN can be checked online, there were several threads about it!

Post in thread '⌛ BMW Germany: Recalls and service campaigns: N52 engine'

Nov 24, 2023

I've read that recall letters will start going out on December 13th. in the USA. Obviously they have to replace the valve cover gasket, but will they also replace the valve cover? Here in the states, if the dealer replaces the gasket, they will also replace the valve cover.

Gasket, aluminium bolts of the cover as well as the 2x4 bolts of the VANOS are required to replace. Replacing the cover itself is nonsense.

But, as this "improvement" is completey free (AFAIK in Europe), they may do what they want as far as they don't charge you for anything else.

I didn't get any recall...

• RobbiZ4

 

[Colinl]

Hi all, Thank you for all your help with the Vanos bolt recall. Called my local BMW dealer, very helpful, it seems the recall was done January 2025 so all good.

Thanks guys