Another strut brace question

[Dr. Zed]

So I've done some searching on this topic on the forum but keep coming up with conflicting answers.

I'm looking at painting/refurbing the braces which run from the towers to bulkhead and wondering if the nuts/bolts are reusable and what torque setting they should be set to.

I've read various setting ranging from 28 to 56Nm.

I'm also looking at painting the braces behind the kidney grilles so same question there - are the nuts/bolts okay to reinstall and what torque are they?

Thanks!

 

[craig3.2]

The strut braces as fitted from factory,as well as when adding an extra brace between the towers, all bolts are Single use,so you need to buy new ones ,not too expensive,from BMW,if memory serves me right.
Can't remember the torque settings, sorry.
Will try and see if I have the info somewhere.

 

[enuff_zed]

So I've done some searching on this topic on the forum but keep coming up with conflicting answers.

I'm looking at painting/refurbing the braces which run from the towers to bulkhead and wondering if the nuts/bolts are reusable and what torque setting they should be set to.

I've read various setting ranging from 28 to 56Nm.

I'm also looking at painting the braces behind the kidney grilles so same question there - are the nuts/bolts okay to reinstall and what torque are they?

Thanks!

Can't remember the torques tbh, but you can re-use the nuts, they are not any form of locking nut, no insert and not 'deformed' at the top to grip. Like all these things though, for the price of them, fit new and be covered. I had some brand new Nyloc stainless nuts and washers, so stuck them on instead. The strut braces can knock if not quite tight enough, even if they feel solid, so don't be afraid to give 'em a tweak.

 

[TheDan]

 

[enuff_zed]

Interestingly, those instruction say 'replace' if they're screws, but make no mention of replacement if they're nuts?
Not forgetting the distinction between 'refit' and 'replace'.

 

[TheDan]

Interestingly, those instruction say 'replace' if they're screws, but make no mention of replacement if they're nuts?
Not forgetting the distinction between 'refit' and 'replace'.

Yeah interesting. When I remove mine to paint them I will probably just get new nuts anyway to be safe, they aren't expensive.

And then torque them to 41Nm (my crappy old torque wrench probably has a 41Nm tolerance anyway )

 

[enuff_zed]

Interestingly, those instruction say 'replace' if they're screws, but make no mention of replacement if they're nuts?
Not forgetting the distinction between 'refit' and 'replace'.

Yeah interesting. When I remove mine to paint them I will probably just get new nuts anyway to be safe, they aren't expensive.

And then torque them to 41Nm (my crappy old torque wrench probably has a 41Nm tolerance anyway )

When I did mine the first time I discovered that doing up the nuts scuffed the new paint off.
So now I fit stainless washers under the nuts and ensure the washer doesn't rotate while I do the nut up.
Plenty of thread to still keep it all in safety (minimum 1.5 threads through the nut - by aerospace standards)

 

[Dr. Zed]

Thanks all for the information! Loving the swift replies on this. So seems 41 Nm is a safe bet.
Think I may as well replace them with a new set as suggested. If they're only going to cost a few quid I may as well.

Anyone know where I can order a few of these nuts online. I have a BMW dealer about 5 mins from me but out of principle (and past experience) I refuse to use them.
I believe the part number is 31316769731. Can anyone confirm this?

 

[enuff_zed]

Like these?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203029362377?epid=1909344631&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2f457e36c9:g:BUgAAOSwGTBe8cDK&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSjVt3vLKCbov98Z19qhuwY6NR%252BQ7rrZlAAZLiUuWltHoYl%252FAeyyzQh2sfhPR2WLk8ElAXn%252Fs90arVeJVFgNo7n2Aio3p05foPfWnrTiBtBtEze2AnlIXXqgYZdmPIscjLFcp12iuRBzhwHSVbpb8o6b4C51aFb4qGzcce3bOjYqz5xHAX3WZ2EESjyzbdFppFJgT%252F3h8HODsAKlKCZARimE2g%252BH1Il5VwPhV%252BR3rTm8F1vezDfwTvQArC8VChLqEQa0GuN8aV0FYp%252BbtiwPycC64MUBdaavtIl2y%252FzH%252BlDUzYbKz4gBSVCzrjN7UAKQ5h79BhrG89vk5Lp7TQOZej36uBsDGbxm4snpomglOYHSMoj7q9iFxXVbxJRGBUW5wQEs%252BKBT6u0bPLO6LTr6NLL2CfdlR2ygyTB6urwSXyE6QiRAg1sTfELrHxEOjBgWdTpncYA2r6ai0Ili7sQ65YAKXRxk2uGNPiK9NJ%252B38XwTx9vlN8SvcsW7RgFFnCJ71fqDpVDKsrxJIYr5VnOYrTKalkp9%252FFR7RQa%252FCBsSP3BaEOwPQUGkFoUcPv%252BfrLCg%252BIGHpNOQs0vvI9aNIDWyO7mOAl6vLDKqEI58fIb%252F5aKApY8PXqOmHGWeLzifG3cJr%252BZoyM%252B6QbTbZuyM70W19cpbQl55YeabxgGasCY986%252FiWX32055Inyl%252F5JaBd%252B7G1b7jCRKYXGmBmEcsUBuCCff6uWA%252BdFIIa8tUHYjEPgqRqyZRTUTZRRyCUNTuZYf8C%252FZ8eMaq60qpTb2Gdpw2YyvP62RMBRQyKPbWeI7F%252BzK0EHPUZxu4PznTHOgbPkxWup%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

Though these look more like the strut top ones, which I think are smaller?

 

[enuff_zed]

Strut brace nuts are: 07129904048 according to Realoem

https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-bike-spare-parts/07129904048_Hex-Nut.html

 

[enuff_zed]

If you're not bothered by originality, go to your local hardware store for 4x M10 Stainless Nyloc Nuts + 4x Stainless flat washers.
Bear in mind that Nylocs ARE one use only, so maybe get a pack of them, still be cheaper than BMW. :wink:

 

[Dr. Zed]

If you're not bothered by originality, go to your local hardware store for 4x M10 Stainless Nyloc Nuts + 4x Stainless flat washers.
Bear in mind that Nylocs ARE one use only, so maybe get a pack of them, still be cheaper than BMW. :wink:

Thanks for the tip mate.
Pack of hundred from screw fix is less than 7 quid so happy days. Can use them.

 

[Jakg]

Strut brace nuts are: 07129904048 according to Realoem

https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-bike-spare-parts/07129904048_Hex-Nut.html

If you're not bothered by originality, go to your local hardware store for 4x M10 Stainless Nyloc Nuts + 4x Stainless flat washers.
Bear in mind that Nylocs ARE one use only, so maybe get a pack of them, still be cheaper than BMW. :wink:

The standard nuts are class 8 (high tensile) - stainless isn't a suitable substitute.

You'll be able to get some suitable nuts off eBay for a couple of quid though, just make sure you get the right spec.

 

[enuff_zed]

Strut brace nuts are: 07129904048 according to Realoem

https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-bike-spare-parts/07129904048_Hex-Nut.html

If you're not bothered by originality, go to your local hardware store for 4x M10 Stainless Nyloc Nuts + 4x Stainless flat washers.
Bear in mind that Nylocs ARE one use only, so maybe get a pack of them, still be cheaper than BMW. :wink:

The standard nuts are class 8 (high tensile) - stainless isn't a suitable substitute.

You'll be able to get some suitable nuts off eBay for a couple of quid though, just make sure you get the right spec.

For a screw I'd agree, but for a nut, the stainless ones are perfectly ok to use.

 

[Zedebee]

I'm also looking at painting the braces behind the kidney grilles so same question there

These can be difficult to get off without first removing the front bumper. Otherwise the angle/tight space you have to work with makes it really easy to burr the torx heads, particularly if they haven’t been removed before. They can be painted in situ if you are you are using something like smoothrite with a long handled brush, but you will get better results removing them.

 

[enuff_zed]

I'm also looking at painting the braces behind the kidney grilles so same question there

These can be difficult to get off without first removing the front bumper. Otherwise the angle/tight space you have to work with makes it really easy to burr the torx heads, particularly if they haven’t been removed before. They can be painted in situ if you are you are using something like smoothrite with a long handled brush, but you will get better results removing them.

Agreed. Best to use a 1/4 drive socket set with a torx bit and ratchet handle. Push hard onto the head of the ratchet while you turn it slowly.

 

[Dr. Zed]

These can be difficult to get off without first removing the front bumper. Otherwise the angle/tight space you have to work with makes it really easy to burr the torx heads, particularly if they haven’t been removed before. They can be painted in situ if you are you are using something like smoothrite with a long handled brush, but you will get better results removing them.

That won't be an issue. Bumper is coming off soon when doing the Vanos . Thanks for the info.

 

[Dr. Zed]

The standard nuts are class 8 (high tensile) - stainless isn't a suitable substitute.

You'll be able to get some suitable nuts off eBay for a couple of quid though, just make sure you get the right spec.

Can you point in the direction of one's that would be right spec then on ebay mate? I can have a look then but it does seem the nyloc ones are being recommended for this job so they may work.

 

[Jakg]

The standard nuts are class 8 (high tensile) - stainless isn't a suitable substitute.

You'll be able to get some suitable nuts off eBay for a couple of quid though, just make sure you get the right spec.

Can you point in the direction of one's that would be right spec then on ebay mate? I can have a look then but it does seem the nyloc ones are being recommended for this job so they may work.

Nyloc is just the locking bit at the end - you can get nuts in various grades, materials, locking and shapes.

The part number quoted earlier - 07129904048 - is described as "M10-8-ZNS3"
Which means M10, Class 8, passivated coating (I think!).
It also looks to be flanged (or at least, has integrated washer).
I think it's also a locking nut (from memory!), but locking at the top with a deformable thread rather than being a nyloc.

£3.39 for 24x M10 Grade 8 flange nuts - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200587633734?hash=item2eb3f46446:gAQAAOSwHExgI9ZB
Or £5.21 for 14x M10 Grade 8 flange nyloc nuts - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373148671420?hash=item56e164ddbc:g:iP8AAOSwU21fNkuG - which is probably what I'd go for.

I'm sure stainless ones would be fine - but BMW specced high tensile for a reason so I'd stick with that.

 

[Dr. Zed]

Nyloc is just the locking bit at the end - you can get nuts in various grades, materials, locking and shapes.

The part number quoted earlier - 07129904048 - is described as "M10-8-ZNS3"
Which means M10, Class 8, passivated coating (I think!).
It also looks to be flanged (or at least, has integrated washer).
I think it's also a locking nut (from memory!), but locking at the top with a deformable thread rather than being a nyloc.

£3.39 for 24x M10 Grade 8 flange nuts - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200587633734?hash=item2eb3f46446:gAQAAOSwHExgI9ZB
Or £5.21 for 14x M10 Grade 8 flange nyloc nuts - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373148671420?hash=item56e164ddbc:g:iP8AAOSwU21fNkuG - which is probably what I'd go for.

I'm sure stainless ones would be fine - but BMW specced high tensile for a reason so I'd stick with that.

I'll stick those on order, thanks mate!