Another hood issue - facelift 3.0si

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Anonymous

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Hello everyone,

I've spent the morning reading through all the hood failure threads I can find on the forum, as unfortunately mine seems to be playing up.

I have a 2007 (07) 3.0si with 19k on the clock.

The hood hasn't been lowered over the winter, the car has been mostly garaged since January and last time I used the hood (November ish) it worked without issue, no slowing down or 'weakening' of the pump/motor noticed.

Yesterday I tried to lower the hood. The windows dropped as expected and the front motor worked, correctly disengaging the windscreen lock. There was however no noise at all from the rear pump/motor, not even a hint of noise. The upper red light (there are 2 lights next to the hood operation buttons) flashed red. I held my finger on the button for a good few seconds to make sure.

I then pressed the close button, this correctly fired the front motor which locked the hood to the windscreen and raised the door windows correctly.

Suspecting it could be a boot storage tray issue, I raised the tray and tried opening the roof again. This time, as expected, the lower of the two lights (next to the lower hood button) flashed and nothing happened. So I guess the boot microswitch is working OK.

As a final try, I lowered the boot storage tray and the same thing happened as on the first attempt, windows lowered, front windscreen motor worked but nothing from the rear pump/motor.

Is there anything else left for me to check? Fuse perhaps... where is this located?

Apart from this, I've been really impressed with the car so far!

Thanks :-)
 
Sorry, but its likely the motor. I had the exact same thing with mine, the top 'jaws' open then nada. The fact that its been stood probably means its had time to rust solid, rather than continued use keeping it working. If you have warranty, its time to claim.
 
no noise on the motor is a worry... i thought maybe the red handle had been pulled disengaging the motor.

Also if its been garaged it could be just seized in places... often say it needs assistance when removing hard tops (so raising) after a long winter nothing about lowering.
 
After reading a thread on here yesterday, getting the motor out, spraying it with a lot of penetrating fluid and giving it a few whacks with a rubber mallet seems to free it up and remove the rust. Apparently, once the rust is gone the motor should function again (then run it for 5 minutes each way whilst off the car to really let it clean itself).

I know if mine breaks I'll be going down this route before buying a new one.
 
RJS-Z4 said:
After reading a thread on here yesterday, getting the motor out, spraying it with a lot of penetrating fluid and giving it a few whacks with a rubber mallet seems to free it up and remove the rust. Apparently, once the rust is gone the motor should function again (then run it for 5 minutes each way whilst off the car to really let it clean itself).

I know if mine breaks I'll be going down this route before buying a new one.
Click to expand...

That depends on how long you're keeping the car. The route above means you're freeing up a rusty motor... it will rust and seize again as its already on its way out. Personally, I'd fork out for a new motor and do the job once, rather than take it all to bits again in a years time...
 
Thanks for the replies fella's... not good news then eh!

The car isn't a BMW AUC, I bought it from a 'Lookers' trade centre, but I did purchase an extended warranty from them when I bought it.

What is the general process to follow now? Do I need someone to diagnose the fault first (got a great Indy I use), or give lookers a call?

Not had to deal with anything like this before so apologies for the newbie type questions...
 
Speak with lookers if its their warranty, or call the warranty people direct if you're able as you might be able to choose the repairer that way...
 
FWIW, it's fuse 55, which also powers the windscreen motor, so that's not the problem. Afraid there's only one other possibility. :(
 
Maniac said:
RJS-Z4 said:
After reading a thread on here yesterday, getting the motor out, spraying it with a lot of penetrating fluid and giving it a few whacks with a rubber mallet seems to free it up and remove the rust. Apparently, once the rust is gone the motor should function again (then run it for 5 minutes each way whilst off the car to really let it clean itself).

I know if mine breaks I'll be going down this route before buying a new one.
Click to expand...

That depends on how long you're keeping the car. The route above means you're freeing up a rusty motor... it will rust and seize again as its already on its way out. Personally, I'd fork out for a new motor and do the job once, rather than take it all to bits again in a years time...
Click to expand...

Thing is, if you run the motor, by nature, it will clean itself.

I'd be just as happy with a motor I removed, ran for a good five minutes both ways resealed properly and then put back.

It's the use and the seal that cause the motors to fail from what I've read, so this should remove the issue.
 
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