Alignment numbers - lots of red

P

Pumchdrunked

Member
 Essex
Hey all, as you were kind enough to help me with my leak issue, I'm hoping you can give me some pointers on where to go next.

The operative at the alignment shop couldn't adjust the alignment and made some notes on the printout. I wasn't even charged for his effort, and I'll be welcomed back when it's all sorted.

So far, I've bought a set of Corteco inner and outer track rod ends and eccentric bolts, which I'm hoping will allow a proper alignment to be dialled in.

Yes, the car is a handful and pulls to the left, but it is manageable at normal road speeds.

T
 

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Yup, if those are all too seized to adjust then there's no point him doing half a job. Good of him not to even try and then ask for payment.
When you adjust one setting it can tend to affect another, so you need to be able to tweak them all at the same time.

On the front end, it's worth whipping out the camber pins from the top mounts as well, so they can easily adjust the camber.

I would also suggest, while the gaiter is off the right front tie, that you wind the steering fully right and apply some grease to the teeth on the steering rack.

On the rear, there are three large bolts that hold the Rear Trailing Arm Bush (RTAB) carrier tight. Loosen them one at a time and clean up the threads. Then try to spray some Plusgas or WD40 between the carrier and the chassis so it can all be adjusted easily. If you don't have too far to travel, or aren't too worried about it feeling a bit off, you can undo all three bolts a couple of turns and prise the carrier down to get the spray in there more effectively.
 
I tend to do my own , get the guys to lift the car and then stand around like a nosy Parker. When they start scratching their head, I start to work with the guys. Not sure they will allow you to get under the ramp in the UK, but at least that way I know it’s done right. The rear trailing arm is really difficult to align. Esp if there is weight on the wheel. (For toe in/out adjustment) I end up putting a smaller jack under the car at the rear, removing the weight from the wheels, and then adjusting as required. No doubt some grease under those arm mounts would have made things easier.

My front end is completely different, so they have no clue what to do here, so again, I’ll initially advise from a distance,, but then will always have to do it myself as the MRT kit isn’t the most seen setup. I also pay zero attention to what it says on the screen, there are some really good Indian guys at the workshop that I go to, they can get it within a bees dick just by eye.

Yeah, it helps if you have a bit of an idea on the setting you want BEFORE you go in there..
 
What are these camber pins everyone else seems to know about? I was told the garage couldn't adjust my camber enough the last time I went in, do the need to be replaced afterwards? Yes I know I should know after 4 years here but I don't. :rolleyes::)
 
MikeyH said:
What are these camber pins everyone else seems to know about? I was told the garage couldn't adjust my camber enough the last time I went in, do the need to be replaced afterwards? Yes I know I should know after 4 years here but I don't. :rolleyes::)
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Dowel pin on the top of the strut mount that then pokes through a hole in the strut tower..
 
When I took my car for an alignment both front track rods were seized solid (seems to be a common problem) so they and an N/S/R lower outer ball-joint had to be replaced.

So it ended up costing just over £500, but it was a price worth paying as the car was totally transformed. :D
 
MikeyH said:
Thank you B21, I will have a look tomorrow. Is it safe to remove it?
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Yes mate but you will need a 14 lb Maul and some Scaffold planks. Should be worth it though for the extra 43% cornering speed. But then you might have to join me on my 6.15 Virtual speed awareness course tonight so the choice is yours. Happy new year mate.:driving:
 
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