Advice cracked 19 Alloy

jenniferlouise said:
They look good Rob, thanks for sharing. Did you refit the RFT or opt for an alternative? If I don’t need to spend out on new tyres too, it does make new, non-OEM wheels an option. Also looking at the 437M option as these look like a smart modern take on the 326M (esp in polished and black against my black paint), and take some confidence that the 9J front and 10J rear would still fit the E89
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I’m running normal tyres on mine as they give an improvement in ride quality when compared to runflats, especially if the car already has hard M-sport suspension fitted. The 437 wheels would be even better as they’re forged and not cast, so lighter & stronger.
I’ve got 255 35 19 R & 235 35 19 F so slightly taller sidewalls for added protection for the rims, no rubbing problems at all.
They’re 25mm offsets by the way :thumbsup:
Rob
 
The 437m seems like a good solution given short supply of 326s and tiglon is right there are more available.
Tyre sizes are a bit confusing though as it seems some say 235/35 and 255/35 others say 255/35 and 275/35.
I’m worried the tyres might catch the shock/wheel arch what size tyres did you use tiglon.
I assume stud pattern is same too.
 
Fox2000 said:
The 437m seems like a good solution given short supply of 326s and tiglon is right there are more available.
Tyre sizes are a bit confusing though as it seems some say 235/35 and 255/35 others say 255/35 and 275/35.
I’m worried the tyres might catch the shock/wheel arch what size tyres did you use tiglon.
I assume stud pattern is same too.
Click to expand...

Stud pattern is all identical. Mine are 788M, but 437M are the same offset/fit/size. Initially I had 235 on the front and 265 on the back, which was fine. I've now moved to 275 at the back and will soon switch the fronts to 245.

I'm not sure if standard 225 and 255 would be wide enough.
 
tiglon said:
Fox2000 said:
The 437m seems like a good solution given short supply of 326s and tiglon is right there are more available.
Tyre sizes are a bit confusing though as it seems some say 235/35 and 255/35 others say 255/35 and 275/35.
I’m worried the tyres might catch the shock/wheel arch what size tyres did you use tiglon.
I assume stud pattern is same too.
Click to expand...

Stud pattern is all identical. Mine are 788M, but 437M are the same offset/fit/size. Initially I had 235 on the front and 265 on the back, which was fine. I've now moved to 275 at the back and will soon switch the fronts to 245.

I'm not sure if standard 225 and 255 would be wide enough.
Click to expand...

235/35 19 and 275/30 19 are the ‘perfect fit’ DSC wise..

245/35 19 and 275/30 19 best fit tyre / rim wise..

225 and 255 not acceptable :thumbsup:
 
B21 said:
tiglon said:
Fox2000 said:
The 437m seems like a good solution given short supply of 326s and tiglon is right there are more available.
Tyre sizes are a bit confusing though as it seems some say 235/35 and 255/35 others say 255/35 and 275/35.
I’m worried the tyres might catch the shock/wheel arch what size tyres did you use tiglon.
I assume stud pattern is same too.
Click to expand...

Stud pattern is all identical. Mine are 788M, but 437M are the same offset/fit/size. Initially I had 235 on the front and 265 on the back, which was fine. I've now moved to 275 at the back and will soon switch the fronts to 245.

I'm not sure if standard 225 and 255 would be wide enough.
Click to expand...

235/35 19 and 275/30 19 are the ‘perfect fit’ DSC wise..

245/35 19 and 275/30 19 best fit tyre / rim wise..

225 and 255 not acceptable :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I suppose I'll just have to keep the DSC turned off when I change the fronts to 245/35 :D
 
I was told recently that some MOT testers apply a FAIL to a welded alloy rim.

Only hear say and no evidence yet and I can’t understand why it would fail an mot on a properly executed repair?
 
tiglon said:
B21 said:
tiglon said:
Stud pattern is all identical. Mine are 788M, but 437M are the same offset/fit/size. Initially I had 235 on the front and 265 on the back, which was fine. I've now moved to 275 at the back and will soon switch the fronts to 245.

I'm not sure if standard 225 and 255 would be wide enough.
Click to expand...

235/35 19 and 275/30 19 are the ‘perfect fit’ DSC wise..

245/35 19 and 275/30 19 best fit tyre / rim wise..

225 and 255 not acceptable :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I suppose I'll just have to keep the DSC turned off when I change the fronts to 245/35 :D
Click to expand...

Braver man than me.. :thumbsup:

I'll probably go with 245/35 19 in Conti Sports 7 on my tyre refresh..

THe front rear error is 1% so its within limits for E89s AFAICT..
 
B21 said:
tiglon said:
B21 said:
235/35 19 and 275/30 19 are the ‘perfect fit’ DSC wise..

245/35 19 and 275/30 19 best fit tyre / rim wise..

225 and 255 not acceptable :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I suppose I'll just have to keep the DSC turned off when I change the fronts to 245/35 :D
Click to expand...

Braver man than me.. :thumbsup:

I'll probably go with 245/35 19 in Conti Sports 7 on my tyre refresh..

THe front rear error is 1% so its within limits for E89s AFAICT..
Click to expand...

Brave words, but won't actually happen :lol:

That's what I came up with in terms of diameter difference too.

I only have Sport Contact 7 on the rear at the moment, but I've yet to meet the limit of their grip. I'm not enough of an expert to tell you whether they have more grip than the PS4S that were on there previously, but they certainly don't have less grip.
 
Big Conti fan, write ups on sports 7 seem to eclipse the others so far..so will go with them next :driving: :thumbsup:
 
Just purchased a Z4 35is and it's coming with 295 style wheels. Personally think they age the car a bit so much prefer the look of the 326. Having said that, I'm reading nothing but horror stories when I google "326 wheels". Are they really that bad? Is every owner doomed to have cracks at some point or another? Trying to convince myself from selling the 295s - so appreciate the input.

I see the 437 is recommended, but would need to do more research on how far they stick out from the fender. Personally prefer the wheels/tires to stay on the inside of the fenders.
 
spielnicht said:
Just purchased a Z4 35is and it's coming with 295 style wheels. Personally think they age the car a bit so much prefer the look of the 326. Having said that, I'm reading nothing but horror stories when I google "326 wheels". Are they really that bad? Is every owner doomed to have cracks at some point or another? Trying to convince myself from selling the 295s - so appreciate the input.

I see the 437 is recommended, but would need to do more research on how far they stick out from the fender. Personally prefer the wheels/tires to stay on the inside of the fenders.
Click to expand...

Some say 326 are made of chocolate, others have been fine with them.

The 437 or other M2/M3/M4 wheels don't stick out at all, they fill the gap quite nicely - plenty of photos of them on Z4s out there if you do a google or forum search.
 
spielnicht said:
Just purchased a Z4 35is and it's coming with 295 style wheels. Personally think they age the car a bit so much prefer the look of the 326. Having said that, I'm reading nothing but horror stories when I google "326 wheels". Are they really that bad? Is every owner doomed to have cracks at some point or another? Trying to convince myself from selling the 295s - so appreciate the input.

I see the 437 is recommended, but would need to do more research on how far they stick out from the fender. Personally prefer the wheels/tires to stay on the inside of the fenders.
Click to expand...

Just for balance, never had an issue with cracking. There's no doubt non-rft tyres help. Any alloy can crack if you hit a pot-hole hard enough... If the wheel has been previously repaired, it's a matter of time regardless of what tyres you have.

..but yes, non-rfts will help. Get the 326 wheels.. they're lurvlyyy :thumbsup:
 
warmasice said:
spielnicht said:
Just purchased a Z4 35is and it's coming with 295 style wheels. Personally think they age the car a bit so much prefer the look of the 326. Having said that, I'm reading nothing but horror stories when I google "326 wheels". Are they really that bad? Is every owner doomed to have cracks at some point or another? Trying to convince myself from selling the 295s - so appreciate the input.

I see the 437 is recommended, but would need to do more research on how far they stick out from the fender. Personally prefer the wheels/tires to stay on the inside of the fenders.
Click to expand...

Just for balance, never had an issue with cracking. There's no doubt non-rft tyres help. Any alloy can crack if you hit a pot-hole hard enough... If the wheel has been previously repaired, it's a matter of time regardless of what tyres you have.

..but yes, non-rfts will help. Get the 326 wheels.. they're lurvlyyy :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

+1 :thumbsup:
 
Thanks the input. Would definitely plan on getting non-RFs so that's great to know that it helps. I'll continue on with my plans then to get the 326 wheels.
 
iowgooner said:
After changing over to non run flats , does the run flat warning light need to be disabled ?
Click to expand...

It’s a tyre pressure warning system so only requires a reset as you would do after changing tyres or tyre pressures.
 
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