Adding an amp to OEM head unit?

[dhobbs]

Hi

I'm interested in adding an amp to my business headunit. I understand that I need a high level amp as it takes the speaker inputs rather than line-in.

Couple of questions,
Can the existing (6) speakers handle an increase in power?

Would I be best to amplify all 6 speakers? I have already changed the tweeter in the door to a 3way in the blanking plate.

Any recommendations for brands?
Don't have the subs but might be tempted to install later.

Thanks
Daz

 

[markplant]

http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67364&hilit=head+unit+wiring
Have a read of this thread , as it would appear the head unit has the pins, so you'd just need to make up a lead that goes from pins to RCA, but it also looks like it needs the head unit coding so it uses those and not the built in amp

 

[Ducklakeview]

The head unit does in fact have line level outputs, as these are what is used to feed the amp when you have the DSP.

I found this out accidentally when I fitted a Parrot kit to my car. When first testing it, I was expecting the bluetooth streamed music to come from the Parrot's own amp, as it does in my van, but nope it is fed into and then out of the head unit and onto the existing amp, so volume etc is still controlled on the HU rather than the Parrot remote.

The upside is, superb quality music streaming

Mike

 

[markplant]

The head unit does in fact have line level outputs, as these are what is used to feed the amp when you have the DSP.

I found this out accidentally when I fitted a Parrot kit to my car. When first testing it, I was expecting the bluetooth streamed music to come from the Parrot's own amp, as it does in my van, but nope it is fed into and then out of the head unit and onto the existing amp, so volume etc is still controlled on the HU rather than the Parrot remote.

The upside is, superb quality music streaming

Mike

Mike do you know if it's difficult to find an code an which bit of software to use to activate the line out, as I only the 6 speaker set as well and am also tempted to have a go at this

 

[Ducklakeview]

The head unit does in fact have line level outputs, as these are what is used to feed the amp when you have the DSP.

I found this out accidentally when I fitted a Parrot kit to my car. When first testing it, I was expecting the bluetooth streamed music to come from the Parrot's own amp, as it does in my van, but nope it is fed into and then out of the head unit and onto the existing amp, so volume etc is still controlled on the HU rather than the Parrot remote.

The upside is, superb quality music streaming

Mike

Mike do you know if it's difficult to find an code an which bit of software to use to activate the line out, as I only the 6 speaker set as well and am also tempted to have a go at this

I presume it can be coded with INPA/SSS Progman or the like, which I have, but does it need coding? I'd have thought they would have made the HU's all the same, just used the high level outs for the basic system, and the low level for DSP cars? I also presume, on earlier cars that the wiring could also be there for a full DSP, a bit like the cruise control wiring?

Mike

 

[markplant]

Was just going on this bit of text that I saw , that was in the link I added

User avatarGuidoK
Senior Member
Senior Member
PostSat Jun 28, 2014 2:57 pm

Yes that's the same on my diagram. It say's "kopfhörer" which means "headphones" (basically a line signal)

But with those pins you only have 2ch line out, so you can't regulate front&rear balance with the HU. So you have to adjust that with the channel gain adjustment on the main amp to set the balance to your liking.

I think I saw an option in INPA where you can configure the HU main output from high voltage to line output but I don't know that for sure.

 

[Ducklakeview]

Was just going on this bit of text that I saw , that was in the link I added

User avatarGuidoK
Senior Member
Senior Member
PostSat Jun 28, 2014 2:57 pm

Yes that's the same on my diagram. It say's "kopfhörer" which means "headphones" (basically a line signal)

But with those pins you only have 2ch line out, so you can't regulate front&rear balance with the HU. So you have to adjust that with the channel gain adjustment on the main amp to set the balance to your liking.

I think I saw an option in INPA where you can configure the HU main output from high voltage to line output but I don't know that for sure.

I'll have a look in INPA tomorrow when I'm recoding my seat to key memory, as cocked it up! Will let you know if I see anything.

Mike

 

[markplant]

Cheers Mike

 

[dhobbs]

Thanks for the replies, will have a look at that thread.

I have looked at a few others from different forums I.e. e46 but a lot of these are based on amping the rear speakers on a saloon car.

 

[vester86]

Hi

I'm interested in adding an amp to my business headunit. I understand that I need a high level amp as it takes the speaker inputs rather than line-in.

Couple of questions,
Can the existing (6) speakers handle an increase in power?

not really. besides that, the original headunit isn't that bad, both power-wise & sound-wise. upgrading your speakers will cost the same, is less hassle & gives much bigger improvement in sound.

Would I be best to amplify all 6 speakers? I have already changed the tweeter in the door to a 3way in the blanking plate.

Any recommendations for brands?
Don't have the subs but might be tempted to install later.

Thanks
Daz

i would suggest to put some full range speakers in the rear, fed by the mid-range speaker line already present.

 

[dhobbs]

Hi

I'm interested in adding an amp to my business headunit. I understand that I need a high level amp as it takes the speaker inputs rather than line-in.

Couple of questions,
Can the existing (6) speakers handle an increase in power?

not really. besides that, the original headunit isn't that bad, both power-wise & sound-wise. upgrading your speakers will cost the same, is less hassle & gives much bigger improvement in sound.

Would I be best to amplify all 6 speakers? I have already changed the tweeter in the door to a 3way in the blanking plate.

Any recommendations for brands?
Don't have the subs but might be tempted to install later.

Thanks
Daz

i would suggest to put some full range speakers in the rear, fed by the mid-range speaker line already present.

So you reckon replacing the speakers first then?
I know the one's in the upper rear require a lot of work to get to, do you suggest scrapping those and putting some in the space for the subs (currently have cubby holes there)?
Thanks

 

[Ducklakeview]

Hi

I'm interested in adding an amp to my business headunit. I understand that I need a high level amp as it takes the speaker inputs rather than line-in.

Couple of questions,
Can the existing (6) speakers handle an increase in power?

not really. besides that, the original headunit isn't that bad, both power-wise & sound-wise. upgrading your speakers will cost the same, is less hassle & gives much bigger improvement in sound.

Would I be best to amplify all 6 speakers? I have already changed the tweeter in the door to a 3way in the blanking plate.

Any recommendations for brands?
Don't have the subs but might be tempted to install later.

Thanks
Daz

i would suggest to put some full range speakers in the rear, fed by the mid-range speaker line already present.

So you reckon replacing the speakers first then?
I know the one's in the upper rear require a lot of work to get to, do you suggest scrapping those and putting some in the space for the subs (currently have cubby holes there)?
Thanks

I take it you have the basic system? For factory fit, the speakers aren't that bad. The DSP system in mine has the same mids and tweeters as the basic, but with two extra mids behind seats and FOUR subwoofers. Tbh, I think the sound is pretty good for factory fit, and the speakers don't struggle with the power. I seem to remember the DSP system puts something like 80 or 100 watts per channel into the mids and tweeters, so the capability to handle a separate amp hooked upto the factory head unit is there, and probably the best way to go for starters. Obviously you'll need extra mids for behind the seats, but it's the bass you really need to improve as those mids just can't produce it.

I actually have a full DSP speaker system, less the tweeters (4 mids and 4 subs) which I was going to sell on ebay as no longer needed if you are interested..

Mike

 

[vester86]

Hi

I'm interested in adding an amp to my business headunit. I understand that I need a high level amp as it takes the speaker inputs rather than line-in.

Couple of questions,
Can the existing (6) speakers handle an increase in power?

not really. besides that, the original headunit isn't that bad, both power-wise & sound-wise. upgrading your speakers will cost the same, is less hassle & gives much bigger improvement in sound.

Would I be best to amplify all 6 speakers? I have already changed the tweeter in the door to a 3way in the blanking plate.

Any recommendations for brands?
Don't have the subs but might be tempted to install later.

Thanks
Daz

i would suggest to put some full range speakers in the rear, fed by the mid-range speaker line already present.

So you reckon replacing the speakers first then?
I know the one's in the upper rear require a lot of work to get to, do you suggest scrapping those and putting some in the space for the subs (currently have cubby holes there)?
Thanks

That would be exactly my suggestion.

 

[vester86]

not really. besides that, the original headunit isn't that bad, both power-wise & sound-wise. upgrading your speakers will cost the same, is less hassle & gives much bigger improvement in sound.


i would suggest to put some full range speakers in the rear, fed by the mid-range speaker line already present.

So you reckon replacing the speakers first then?
I know the one's in the upper rear require a lot of work to get to, do you suggest scrapping those and putting some in the space for the subs (currently have cubby holes there)?
Thanks

I take it you have the basic system? For factory fit, the speakers aren't that bad. The DSP system in mine has the same mids and tweeters as the basic, but with two extra mids behind seats and FOUR subwoofers. Tbh, I think the sound is pretty good for factory fit, and the speakers don't struggle with the power. I seem to remember the DSP system puts something like 80 or 100 watts per channel into the mids and tweeters, so the capability to handle a separate amp hooked upto the factory head unit is there, and probably the best way to go for starters. Obviously you'll need extra mids for behind the seats, but it's the bass you really need to improve as those mids just can't produce it.

I actually have a full DSP speaker system, less the tweeters (4 mids and 4 subs) which I was going to sell on ebay as no longer needed if you are interested..

Mike

there are 3 options:

1) standard 6 speaker
2) hifi 10 speaker
3) hifi DSP 10 speaker (with carver subs)

Option 2 uses the same speakers as options 1, but more. Total power 310watt if i recon right

Option 3 uses different speakers with different ratings then option 2. Total power 450 watt

 

[Ducklakeview]

there are 3 options:

1) standard 6 speaker
2) hifi 10 speaker
3) hifi DSP 10 speaker (with carver subs)

Option 2 uses the same speakers as options 1, but more. Total power 310watt if i recon right

Option 3 uses different speakers with different ratings then option 2. Total power 450 watt

Good to know, ithought there were only 2 options! In that case I have the speakers from option 3 available, as fitted to my car.

Mike

 

[dhobbs]

Mike
Thanks for the offer of the DSP, probably just upgrade the speakers for now.

I have option 1, 6 speakers. Two midrange in the footwell, two tweeters in the door and two midrange behind the seats.
I have taken the tweeters out and wired up to a 3way in the door, better sound for a small outlay!

Are the footwell and rear speakers fed by a full range signal?
Maybe squeeze a 6x9 into the cubby hole.
Daz

 

[TomK]

I have option 2 as described above which uses the standard head unit, non dsp, and a separate amp on the rear bulkhead. So it must be possible to upgrade yours with an amp I would have thought?

 

[Ducklakeview]

Mike
Thanks for the offer of the DSP, probably just upgrade the speakers for now.

I have option 1, 6 speakers. Two midrange in the footwell, two tweeters in the door and two midrange behind the seats.
I have taken the tweeters out and wired up to a 3way in the door, better sound for a small outlay!

Are the footwell and rear speakers fed by a full range signal?
Maybe squeeze a 6x9 into the cubby hole.
Daz

I think the subs which is what are in the footwells and "cubby holes" in my car will be fed low range only by the amp.

It's only the speakers I have for sale BTW, not the DSP amp.

Mike.

 

[dhobbs]

I've seen this thread;http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14499
So I might give that a go. Try it without an amp to begin with and see if it's any good.

Annoying this is I use the cubby holes for hats and baseball caps, maybe put them in the nets behind the seats.

 

[vester86]

Mike
Thanks for the offer of the DSP, probably just upgrade the speakers for now.

I have option 1, 6 speakers. Two midrange in the footwell, two tweeters in the door and two midrange behind the seats.
I have taken the tweeters out and wired up to a 3way in the door, better sound for a small outlay!

Are the footwell and rear speakers fed by a full range signal?
Maybe squeeze a 6x9 into the cubby hole.
Daz

Yes fullrange signal on all speakers.the tweeters are "limited" by a capacitator Which cuts of the low frequencies.