abs pump

T

tom21

Member
 Cheddar, UK
Hi guys,

Had the dreaded abs light, TC light issue and the garage have said they are 99% sure it is the abs pump that is the problem. Is it best to buy a new pump or is there somewhere people recommend sending these to get them refurbished?

Looking like a costly exercise this is :(
 
From reading the forums I have found a company called ECU testing which I am going to send the pump too. This place is a goldmine for things like that!

Hopefully this solves the problem :cry: :cry:
 
I used ECU testing a few weeks ago and from memory it’s about £250 and takes about a week for to door. Very good company and they give a lifetime guarantee :thumbsup:
 
I used them earlier this year for the same fault Tom, pretty faultless and easy to deal with.

A bargain too compared to buying a new unit considering the warranty
 
Just check to make sure it's not the wheel speed sensors, cheap part, has the same result. TC and abs light on.
 
Vanne said:
Just check to make sure it's not the wheel speed sensors, cheap part, has the same result. TC and abs light on.
Click to expand...

Garage said they have checked the sensors. Will be annoyed if it turns out it is just a dodgy sensor!
 
Tom,
If you want to check if it is the pump or not, give the pump a couple of taps with a small hammer. Gentle taps mind. If the lights go out when you drive, it is the pump fault (caused by it sticking). The gentle taps release it. If the lights come back on your next journey you know it is time to use ECU testing.
 
BeeEmm said:
Tom,
If you want to check if it is the pump or not, give the pump a couple of taps with a small hammer. Gentle taps mind. If the lights go out when you drive, it is the pump fault (caused by it sticking). The gentle taps release it. If the lights come back on your next journey you know it is time to use ECU testing.
Click to expand...

I tried this with mine but I couldn’t get the lights to go off at all. I believe the fault code for wheel sensors and the pump are different so that’s the best way of checking :thumbsup:
 
Pastry said:
BeeEmm said:
Tom,
If you want to check if it is the pump or not, give the pump a couple of taps with a small hammer. Gentle taps mind. If the lights go out when you drive, it is the pump fault (caused by it sticking). The gentle taps release it. If the lights come back on your next journey you know it is time to use ECU testing.
Click to expand...

I tried this with mine but I couldn’t get the lights to go off at all. I believe the fault code for wheel sensors and the pump are different so that’s the best way of checking :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I told you to use a proper hammer, not one you crack nuts with :rofl:
Rob
 
Smartbear said:
Pastry said:
BeeEmm said:
Tom,
If you want to check if it is the pump or not, give the pump a couple of taps with a small hammer. Gentle taps mind. If the lights go out when you drive, it is the pump fault (caused by it sticking). The gentle taps release it. If the lights come back on your next journey you know it is time to use ECU testing.
Click to expand...

I tried this with mine but I couldn’t get the lights to go off at all. I believe the fault code for wheel sensors and the pump are different so that’s the best way of checking :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

I told you to use a proper hammer, not one you crack nuts with :rofl:
Rob
Click to expand...

I did Rob and when Stu came round he said ‘I see you tried hitting it with a hammer then’ :lol:
 
adam1985 said:
Beedub said:
the pump looks like a bastard to remove :(
Click to expand...
Not 100% on the M but its pretty easy on the 3.0si had it out in less than an hour
I used this method for my non m coupe https://www.instructables.com/id/BMW-Z4-E86-DSC-ABS-pumpmodule-removal/
Click to expand...

No different.

Out from wheel well, easy enough job. Just make sure you keep the brake pedal fully depressed before you remove and until it’s replaced otherwise there will be a ton of brake fluid lost.

Also cover the chassis supports with a rag and one removed clean with APC or similar to ensure no brake fluid is left to eat into the paint/protection.
 
Feckin typical! It is just the brushes on the motor sticking (the motor drives the ABS pump). It's a bit of a s**t design really as the motor only ever runs when DSC or the ABS is activated. For people that drive like miss Daisy it's not hard to understand why it fails after a few years.

My top tip - take the car on to some wet grass or gravel on occasion and exercise the ABS / DSC. Keeps the brushes clean.
 
Hi guys, just an update. Sent the abs pump off to ECU testing as recommended. This has fixed all the lights and all seems to be working well again. Traction control is back and ABS working again :)

ECU testing provide a great service at a fraction of the cost of sourcing a new abs pump. What a brilliant service.

Now to the bad part.....

My brake pedal is now feeling significantly "spongier" after coming back from the garage. I am slightly worried that they have used inferior brake fluid when bleeding the brakes. I am using a stoptech trophy big brake kit. Can anyone suggest some good fluid that works well with my uprated brakes? Also think its time for some new pads as they are quite a few years old now. Interested to hear what people use with these brakes for a fast road setup. Thanks
 
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