Abs, brake and traction control lights on

so when this item fails are you guys removing yourself,then taking to this ECU place to be fixed them re-insalling yourselves?
 
Beedub said:
so when this item fails are you guys removing yourself,then taking to this ECU place to be fixed them re-insalling yourselves?
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I am wondering how big a job it is. Looks messy with all the pipes full of brake fluid I guess. Then bleading again after re fitting.
 
But better than the £1800 or so I paid for it, and that included the £1k discount!
 
Beedub said:
so when this item fails are you guys removing yourself,then taking to this ECU place to be fixed them re-insalling yourselves?
Click to expand...
We took the whole car in to sort my wife's. Was a long 2 weeks with the possibility of just 1 car, but leveraged a few favours & got one from the car pool at work to cover us. Part was removed & sent away to be fixed.
 
Lower said:
Justino said:
The unit is 2 parts, the ecu, and pump (or hydro unit). The electric motor that powers the pump generally fails
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ECU testing have told me something similar, ie its the pump that normally fails. They can repair 80-90% of them and driving with it working intermittently doesn't cause any further damage. I've got my wife's previous car sorn'ed in the garage that needs a service and an MOT so i'm going to get that sorted this weekend and then take my car off the road for a week whilst i get the ABS pump sorted by ECU testing.
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You just have no traction or DSC, which makes for interesting driving in the wet :o - back to old skool cadence breaking etc etc
 
Justino said:
Lower said:
Justino said:
The unit is 2 parts, the ecu, and pump (or hydro unit). The electric motor that powers the pump generally fails
Click to expand...

ECU testing have told me something similar, ie its the pump that normally fails. They can repair 80-90% of them and driving with it working intermittently doesn't cause any further damage. I've got my wife's previous car sorn'ed in the garage that needs a service and an MOT so i'm going to get that sorted this weekend and then take my car off the road for a week whilst i get the ABS pump sorted by ECU testing.
Click to expand...

You just have no traction or DSC, which makes for interesting driving in the wet :o - back to old skool cadence breaking etc etc
Click to expand...

Pump is currently working 95% of the time. I hope i won't live to regret saying this but i'm comfortable driving the car without DSC and ABS anyway. I drive pretty gently on a day to day basis and have plenty of experience driving driver aid free cars on trackdays and dealing with the effects of wheel spin and locked brakes.
 
Instant MoT fail if the lights are on though. :x
I drove mine without the pump for about three months with no real issues, but had to get it sorted for the test.
 
Hey buddy
That sounds like the exact same issue as sadly now my ex had
As I checked and renewed speed sensors on all comers nope!
So decided to research it further
And it's a stupidly placed DSC module open to elements heat of engine etc etc

So it's do a great deal at Bmw and it has to be exact one for your car codes on it

Think I got for £800 for her
Sink unscrew torque screws 4
Bottom 2 are a freaking pain of have man hands

Carefully pull it directly out

Clean up face slowly do reverse for new one
Clear codes n all done :)
 
After the lights playing with me for last couple of months they came on and stayed on. I pulled the pump out last night and it'll go off to ecu testing tomorrow.

Getting the pump out was fairly easy once I'd removed the air pump. Getting the nut that holds the air pump in off the under trays where I'd dropped it took longer than getting the pump out!
 
You'll need to use a laptop and INPA to bleed all the air out the system when you refit it, in case you didn't realise, you need to run the ABS to flush all the air out of the pump.
 
:thumbsup: Didn't know that.

However, my brother in law is a mechanic and has access to a laptop and software that will turn the pump on and off. We used it to diagnose the fault in the first place and tried to force the pump to operate as part of the test. The same fault is common on 1 Series BMWs so he's familiar with the process and can help me with the bleeding if required.
 
Update:

Ecu testing tested my pump and found no fault. However, the fault had been intermittent and they said that the pump testing OK after removal wasn't uncommon so I got them to rebuild it anyway. £240 inc VAT later the pump came back. Apparently it's the pump motor that fails and is usually rebuild able.

Getting the pump back in is a bit of a swine. You have to get the pump bracket in its space but not attached, then squeeze the pump in, bolt it to its bracket and then manoeuvre the pump and its bracket into position. Then it's a case of bleeding the system which bled fine without turning the pump on via a laptop. 9mm spanner for the bleed nipples for anyone that's interested (the one size I didn't have!). The electrical connector is a bit unusual as well as there is a lever you have to pull which releases the socket but also pulls the connector out of its socket at the same time as the lever slides out.

Then the moment of truth. Ignition on and all the warning lights are still on :( :headbang: :thumbsdown:

I hadn't turned the ignition on with the abs unit removed so there shouldn't have been any stored fault codes so I was pretty pissed off at this point.

However, when the fault had been intermittent the lights had sometimes gone out when the car was being driven. I thought I'd give it a try and as soon as the car started to move the lights went out and the abs and traction control works again.

:thumbsup: :driving: :D
A job well done and over a £1k saved in parts and labour.
 
Nope, definitely the ABS pump. The fault codes indicated the pump, the laptop couldn't turn the pump on when the warning lights were on but could when they were off. The warning lights being on started out as intermittent and then became constant. ECU testing said that these particular pumps fail in exactly the way i've described and warned me it might arrive and test ok after the shaking about it gets during removal and shipping.

Since the rebuild and reinstall its been fine.
 
Had the same intermittent 3 light issue on my 2007 z4 2.5si at 60,000miles. After a few clicks on this forum I took it to a mechanic mate of mine to confirm the abs pump was the problem.

He removed it and sent it to a company called AC Tronics for a refurb. He prefers them as he finds the other companies often send the units back without finding the problem, especially when it's an intermittent issue.

Thankfully they found the problem with the motor. Part is back on the car and so far so good! Cost was about £450 so cheaper than needing a whole new unit!
 
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