A6A3 and other top codes won't reset after repair.

TJSpinks

Member
 Florida
I have scrolled through the many threads about E89 top problems, and they have been very helpful. However, I can't find anything about this situation, which I'm hoping means it's an easy fix and I'm just being dense.

I had a Hall 2 sensor fault, found a broken wire, and bypassed it (after a lot of futzing). The Hall sensor code is clear, but then I got the hydraulic temp sensor A6A3 code, along with codes for all three valves and the salmon relays. Not surprising, based on my reading, so I replaced the hydraulic motor and both salmon relays.

And still the codes. I have tried to reset them with my OBD reader, tried disconnecting the battery, and no go.

Current status: flashing red button light, windows down, top closed but not locked in back, trunk won't open without Pin 12 bypass.

Current codes:
A6A3 temp sensor
A69A valve 1
A69B valve 2
A69C valve 3
A69F relay 1 (open)
A6A0 relay 2 (close)

I just ordered a better OBD2 bidirectional reader, figuring it will eventually be worth it. And I'm still well below what an indy BMW shop wanted to charge me just to confirm the Hall sensor error.

Please help! This was a job I just wanted to pay for, but I had no confidence in the shop after my experience. I feel like I'm close, so I don't want to just drop it off at the dealer with my credit card on the dash.
 
Solution
Update--

The OBD reader I mentioned was geared more towards American and Japanese cars, not much better than my first one for BMW. Returned it and downloaded Bimmergeek with coding module, bought a cable from Amazon. It is able to open the trunk without messing with the passenger footwell module. Cleared codes and they all returned immediately. I started trying anything that seemed reasonable, unplugging and replugging, changing settings, considering replacing Hall sensor, etc. I noticed that the reader seemed to indicate one window was closed while both were actually open. I was unable to operate windows with the switch, but used the OBD to cycle them several times. At some point shortly after this, I noticed all codes were gone. Roof...
Have you checked the Convertible Roof Top module for any water contamination/ corrosion? I know you are in Florida but surly you must get some rain, or even washing it.
 
I don’t think you’re looking at six live faults. You’ve never actually been able to clear these: a generic OBD reader can’t write to the CTM, and a battery disconnect doesn’t touch module fault memory. So that list may be a history of everything that’s ever gone wrong on the car, including faults from before you fitted the motor and the relays. Clear them properly with something that talks to the CTM, cycle the roof, then see which ones actually return. That alone may halve the list.

If they come back as a block, I’d put corroded pins at the CTM connector ahead of any more parts — which is really Chippie’s water question with a mechanism attached. Corrosion at a multi-pin plug raises resistance across several circuits at once but never equally, and that’s exactly how you end up with separate codes for the temp sensor, three valves and both relays rather than one tidy fault. The module lives in the boot electronics bay, which is where water ends up on these when it gets in anywhere at all. Pull it, look at the pins under decent light, and check the bay floor while you’re there.

Worth a second look at your own Hall 2 bypass as well — not because it was done badly, but because it’s the newest thing on the car and the last change before all this started. And make sure the reader you’ve ordered covers BMW body modules rather than just generic OBD2, or you’ll be back here with a lighter wallet.

Happy to go into more detail if that helps.
 
Thanks for the input. As I mentioned earlier, no water in the trunk at any time since I owned it, but I replaced the motor just in case-- the old one had a very little bit of corrosion. Somewhere on some thread, I think in a different forum, someone had a similar set of codes, all due to the temperature fault. However in that case replacing the motor (with sensor) cleared then.

My first OBD2 reader was able to reset the Hall sensor code, which of course returned when I tried to move the top until I replaced the wire. Hopefully the new one will be able to clear these other codes. As for cycling the top after clearing them-- if I can cycle the top, I'll quit caring what codes are there.

Reader arrived this evening, so I will test it tomorrow. I'm not holding my breath, but it would be great if this isn't just another step along the journey.
 
I just realized that, although I thought I posted a response to Chippie, it seems I failed due to a user error. But as mentioned above, CTM looks fine. And none of these codes were present at first. They appeared after I reconnected the Hall sensor. I'll cross my fingers for the new reader. It certainly wasn't cheap.
 
Update--

The OBD reader I mentioned was geared more towards American and Japanese cars, not much better than my first one for BMW. Returned it and downloaded Bimmergeek with coding module, bought a cable from Amazon. It is able to open the trunk without messing with the passenger footwell module. Cleared codes and they all returned immediately. I started trying anything that seemed reasonable, unplugging and replugging, changing settings, considering replacing Hall sensor, etc. I noticed that the reader seemed to indicate one window was closed while both were actually open. I was unable to operate windows with the switch, but used the OBD to cycle them several times. At some point shortly after this, I noticed all codes were gone. Roof and windows working fine. Honestly, I'm not sure what worked, but the resolution was temporally associated with cycling the windows.

Also of note-- I used a 2010 Audi A5 hydraulic motor, and it is completely identical to the BMW, even the small connector key that fits the drive shaft to the pump axle. I bought the entire hydraulic pump and valves on eBay for just over US$100. The valves look the same, too, but didn't take them off. In retrospect I'm not sure I needed to replace, but for that price it was worth it.

I hope this helps someone someday. All told, including the OBD2 reader and cable, motor, and relay replacements, I think I was still under $500. That's not including the $250 the shop charged me to find out their OBD2 reader agreed with my generic one. Even if I add that, it's still far less than the $1000 they wanted for removing the quarter panel to access the trunk, so that they could "properly" estimate what the repair would cost.

And the Bimmergeek Protool has already helped in a few other misadventures, including the "simple" task of replacing the daytime running light bulb.

Thanks for everyone's input.
 
Solution
Back
Top Bottom