I have scrolled through the many threads about E89 top problems, and they have been very helpful. However, I can't find anything about this situation, which I'm hoping means it's an easy fix and I'm just being dense.
I had a Hall 2 sensor fault, found a broken wire, and bypassed it (after a lot of futzing). The Hall sensor code is clear, but then I got the hydraulic temp sensor A6A3 code, along with codes for all three valves and the salmon relays. Not surprising, based on my reading, so I replaced the hydraulic motor and both salmon relays.
And still the codes. I have tried to reset them with my OBD reader, tried disconnecting the battery, and no go.
Current status: flashing red button light, windows down, top closed but not locked in back, trunk won't open without Pin 12 bypass.
Current codes:
A6A3 temp sensor
A69A valve 1
A69B valve 2
A69C valve 3
A69F relay 1 (open)
A6A0 relay 2 (close)
I just ordered a better OBD2 bidirectional reader, figuring it will eventually be worth it. And I'm still well below what an indy BMW shop wanted to charge me just to confirm the Hall sensor error.
Please help! This was a job I just wanted to pay for, but I had no confidence in the shop after my experience. I feel like I'm close, so I don't want to just drop it off at the dealer with my credit card on the dash.
I had a Hall 2 sensor fault, found a broken wire, and bypassed it (after a lot of futzing). The Hall sensor code is clear, but then I got the hydraulic temp sensor A6A3 code, along with codes for all three valves and the salmon relays. Not surprising, based on my reading, so I replaced the hydraulic motor and both salmon relays.
And still the codes. I have tried to reset them with my OBD reader, tried disconnecting the battery, and no go.
Current status: flashing red button light, windows down, top closed but not locked in back, trunk won't open without Pin 12 bypass.
Current codes:
A6A3 temp sensor
A69A valve 1
A69B valve 2
A69C valve 3
A69F relay 1 (open)
A6A0 relay 2 (close)
I just ordered a better OBD2 bidirectional reader, figuring it will eventually be worth it. And I'm still well below what an indy BMW shop wanted to charge me just to confirm the Hall sensor error.
Please help! This was a job I just wanted to pay for, but I had no confidence in the shop after my experience. I feel like I'm close, so I don't want to just drop it off at the dealer with my credit card on the dash.