A69C VALVE 3 ROOF MOTOR

J

Jamieflanagan01

Member
hi all

Having a nightmare roof won't open, I get the gong on the dash a amber then red roof warning light, I've checked the motor and replaced both salmon relays, checked all the wiring and all looks fine.

I bought a valve to replace the "valve 3" but the same issue.

Any ideas what this could be? Poss ctm?

I won't to figure out what it is before throwing more money at the car.

Cheers and appreciate any help
 
Of course you’ve used a decent code bmw specfic code reader to see what fault codes are any and how the various sensors and microswitches are saying?
 
That thread had posts from RobbieZ4. I have been meaning to ask - I haven't seen him on here for months. Did he finally get fed up of the abuse he got? It is a shame if we have lost such a great source of knowledge.
 
Thanks guys, well the cars been sat for a couple of weeks in the sun, used the amazing code reader Carley again 🙄, and there are new codes coming up!

These have never shown before.

No micro switch issues
 

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Highly unlikely that 3 valves and a temp sensor have all failed together…

So either a loose connector, short, or CTM ECU is going south..IMHO
 
Going south 🤣 nicely put

I thought it might be the ctm, do you think it is worth trying it then maybe look into the ecu?

I've checked all the wires with a multi meter can't find any shorts 🤔

Hope it's not the ecu! 😬
 
Jamieflanagan01 said:
Going south 🤣 nicely put

I thought it might be the ctm, do you think it is worth trying it then maybe look into the ecu?

I've checked all the wires with a multi meter can't find any shorts 🤔

Hope it's not the ecu! 😬
Click to expand...

Allegedly the CTM ECU is pretty dumb in terms of its own and the roofs diagnostics...I think its either a re-furb with a specialist ECU overhaul angent or swap the part out..often on these cars its only with an A/B swap do you bottom out quite what an issue is.. IMHO
 
Right I see, will the ctm control the valves 1,2,3?

I'm going to buy a ctm and see what happens, there isn't any way of blanking the memory by taking the battery off or anything is there?
 
Jamieflanagan01 said:
Right I see, will the ctm control the valves 1,2,3?

I'm going to buy a ctm and see what happens, there isn't any way of blanking the memory by taking the battery off or anything is there?
Click to expand...

With a decent code reader you can do a full reset and even reflash the CTM ..it’s always worth trying..that assumes the battery is in god condition..if the battery is poorly charged or knackered all sorts of spurious faults are generated , normally. Not these though..
 
Oh ok thats interesting, I changed the battery about a month ago so that's fine, do you know of any readers you can buy that will do this? Thanks for everyone's time in helping me
 
Jamieflanagan01 said:
Oh ok thats interesting, I changed the battery about a month ago so that's fine, do you know of any readers you can buy that will do this? Thanks for everyone's time in helping me
Click to expand...

Either BMWs ISTA PC bssed tool set or Bimmergeeks Protool Android based systems..
 
Try putting a voltmeter across one of those valves and see if the they are being triggered. Reset the codes and have someone press the roof up button and watch your voltmeter. If it's being triggered, it's not the CTM. It could me the motor...
 
I will give that ago, would you disconnect the wire from the valve and put the probes in the wire and the get someone to press the roof up button?

Sorry about a newbie when it comes to this sort of thing with electrical issues

Thanks
 
You could do that. If there is a plug , remove it and connect the voltmeter across the two terminals.
 
I have one of these code readers:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ANCEL-System-Reader-Vehicles-Diagnosis/dp/B0871TQR9J?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&th=1
I purchased it from ebay though as it was a lot cheaper than amazon it will reset all the fault codes and is cheaper than a new Roof Module.
has the boot been wet? does it have a leak? The temperature of the hydrolic fluid is a sensor in the roof pump motor and it will fail if it gets wet.
the issues you describe sound like water ingress issues, is the sponge, ( OK its not actually a sponge but it acts like one soaking up water) holding the pump damp?
The Valves are triggered by the Salmon relays, again this could be a damp issue.
Have you tested the relays to see if they work? I beleive they are just change over relays so put 12V across the coil will trigger them.
Pull the relay out of the housing find the 2 pins that trigger the coil and then find the + one and put 12Volts on that, find the - one and put 0Volts to that then the relat should trigger or change state, so if you measure the resitance from the common to the normally open contact it should change state when you add the 12V and the oposite should happen with the Normally closed contact.
If they dont change state then they are broken and need to be replaced.
I very much doubt that all 3 of your solinod valves are broken at the same time.
 
Hi, thanks I will check the link, the boot was damp originally as it had a leak but that got sorted a while again and the motor was running fine.

I checked the cables to the ctm and I'm getting a reading on the multi meter but when I check the wires for the valves no reading at all, the odd thing is the power distribution pack the red thing in the boot had water damaged, I cleaned it all up but still no luck, I check with my multimeter and there is no voltage coming through the grey cable which goes to the motor, do you think this could be the issue?

I had my dad press the button while I tested for power and nothing.
 
The motor on mine was actually wet in side, if you measure the resistane across the 2 purple wires the the motor plug ( they are you temperature sensor ) it should read over 50K ohms i think ( sorry i cant remenr exactly the value ) But the code reader i posted about earlier will read the acual temperature the sensor is reading, mine said something like 120 degrees so i knew it must be wrong. dried the motor out and it now works fine again.
Now before you try to remover the motor from the pump please read my Roof problem post and dont doo what i did and try to remove the motor from the pump in the boot, it makes a right mess, hydrolic fluid everywhere. I would segest you remove the whole assembly from the car.
Now that might sound scary but its easier than it sounds. there is a you tube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qqg9c4fR0_c&t=57s
the guy explains how to remove the assembly and replace it with a new one. You just need to remove it and one its out on a bench or table hold it with the motor pointing up and the fluid reservoir at the bottom then undo the to retaining allen key of star key bolts that hold the motor to the pump, becareful though as when you pull them apart the seal will open and the fluid will leak out a bit ( try to keep the pump up right with the reservoir at the bottom) Watch out for the coupler dont let it drop out or the pins will fall out, it goes between the motor and the pump.
Once the motor is out you can remove the 2 off long bolts that hole the cover on. remove them and the cover will pull off. There may be water in there, there was on mine. when its apart you can either leave it to dry in the air a couple of days or gently use a hair drier to dry it out, not too much heat make sure to dry the electronic partsd at the bottom of the motor as that where the sensor is. the sensor actually monitors the motor temperature and not the fluid but reports back to the car as hydrolic temp . You can then clean the rust off the outside of the case and maybe put a dab of grease on the end of the shaft that goes in the housing ( Case) and reassemble it.
While it out on the bench try it with 12volts ( I used a battery charger) to see if it runs, if it runs nice and smooth then its fine and will not need to be replaced. you can also measure the resistance of the sensor. if there is no resistance then the sensor is broken.
The Motor cables should be in one plug connector with 4 wires 2 purple these are small wires and are the sensor the other 2 are larger wires and one is red 12V DC and the other is Black 0V DC or ground. use this red and blck to run the motor.
Hope this helps
 
Any luck finding the issue ? I have the same fault code on the valve 3. I think the CTM is the problem but i dont know for sure.

// Matte
 
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