35i Track Weapon Build Thread
- Thread starter huseyin88
- Start date
There was a guy on here called Twin Turbo used to track his white, ironically 28i single turbo if I remember correctly, could've been a 35i though..... :scratchhead: Anyway he got some good sprint times and his car was only cooking. Maybe have a look using the search facility of you're interested. 
huseyin88 said:R.E92 said:huseyin88 said:I generally use carley and BMW pro tools for codes on my phone with inpa/ispa on a laptop for when im at home.
Considering purchasing the MHD logging before Donnington on 9/12/2021 as that may help things..
I've seen codes come up for boost solenoid issues but then others saying that its normal on a stage 2+ map on MHD... so not sure.. have you heard anything previously from anyone of them failing and causing limp modes?
Regardless will need the cooling anyway so planning to tackle that first and then continue to digress more in to it.
Havent come across xhp before, seems like something similar to MHD form what i can see? does it have any benefits over MHD?
Regarding clutch packs haven't looked much in to them but noted for when the time comes
Otherwise looking at mtech flywheel or a 35is one as its lighter than the 35i one when addressing those areas in one go.
Just found some articles from "Asbjorn" on z post about the csf rads.. not being sufficient on their own.. i know hes done a lot of good work on his build so may consider looking in to that as well.
xHP is for the transmission, MHD is for the engine.
Without data logging it's hard to tell if the codes are related to bad boost solenoids or just the map controlling boost poorly.
The VANOS code would worry me though, those can be caused by the cam ledges wearing down. Mixture control can also be an indicator of fuel problems like bad injectors.
Noted, only done 67k so wouldn't of expected cam bearing edges to be leaving groves but i guess this is one of things down to how its previously been maintained.. but fair point.
Once I get cooling done, if the issues not resolved maybe looking at injectors then cam ledges together as i think you need to take injectors out so can do seals same time.
only worry is i dont have the tool for it so could just do it super slow and tighten little bit at a time.
At 67k it's very unlikely. You don't need to remove injectors to get valve cover off so best to leave that job until you run out of other diagnostic options.
I would focus on getting the car tuned well and having a good look at the logs. Fuelling issues can kill an engine quickly so making sure your AFR is on target and trims and in check is the most important step. MHD OTS tunes are OK for stock cars but you'll need a proper custom map once you add inlets and larger turbos.
yeah, I didnt think 67k would of caused it either, but im no mechanic so.....
Sorry for some reason in my head i had that injectors need to some out as well :/
Cool beans, yea leaving those bits till end would work out best for me as I could always check lifters as well at that point once a few more miles are on there.
Just purchased the MHD logging license so will get some data in December when I'm at Donnington and take it from there.
Btw really appreciate the input and help
Sorry for some reason in my head i had that injectors need to some out as well :/
Cool beans, yea leaving those bits till end would work out best for me as I could always check lifters as well at that point once a few more miles are on there.
Just purchased the MHD logging license so will get some data in December when I'm at Donnington and take it from there.
Btw really appreciate the input and help
R.E92 said:
The limp mode only comes up after doing 3-4 heavy laps and temps have gone up.
Also when weather was colder on my last track day car seemed to of lasted that little bit longer.
I would of though if it was any of the above that would of kicked in from the first heavy lap if not first WOT or two as faulty pump or leaking injectors would show signs straight off the bat or at least after a warm up lap at a circuit like snetterton or donnington.
huseyin88 said:
Mishimoto https://fullcartuning.com/60716-mishimoto-oil-cooler-cross-flow-bar-plate-10-an-aluminum?utm_campaign=12067374237&utm_network=g&utm_source=Google%20AdWords&utm_content=491281245979&utm_term=&utm_medium=cpc&shopping_product=187896&placement=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrJOMBhCZARIsAGEd4VGUoCJrmmZ5jILpL2jhh1U7a2xY05i-O2Q2wLdD1qfLocHOz5Gt5cgaAsK8EALw_wcB
john-e89 said:There was a guy on here called Twin Turbo used to track his white, ironically 28i single turbo if I remember correctly, could've been a 35i though..... :scratchhead: Anyway he got some good sprint times and his car was only cooking. Maybe have a look using the search facility of you're interested.
Pulled the plug last night and bought the SSP DCT kit with a CSF rad and Mosselman thermostat.
Miyli said:
Yeop, its just the other fault codes that come up in the logs which caused some worry.
Will try and get the VAC motorsport baffle for the engine sump along with an upgrade to the oem oil cooler on right side behind bumper. Can do that all in one go seeing as it would make it easier if i flush coolant and oil when doing the thermostat upgrade.
I'll measure up that oil cooler and find a nice CSF one or something that will fit down there + lines and everything else.
Seems a common mod on the N54's anyway.
I'll get some picks up when i get a min and figure out how to upload on here... i think form memory i need a photbucket account or something..
Scottish Borders
B21 said:
Amazing find.
Really appreciate it B21.. although I feel a bit sad by seeing no real resolution but loads of interesting facts
I have however found a ER kit with twin coolers one each side of the car increasing capacity to 700% stock... pricey though.. but defo caught my eye... and the single kit alone increases it to 350%..
I'm going to probably get the single kit for now and then if not enough upgrade to the twin by buying another rad and daisy chain them together.
My oil changes are going to cost a bomb!
Miyli said:
Nice setup there. I have seen a few people running the cooler across the top there. my issue would be that i ordered the SSP DCT cooler which will mount there.
So wont be able to use that space
I want to utilise the original engine oil cooler location with better rads to not block more of the front end as i already have a wagner evo II intercooler as well.
The ER rads seem to be 3.5x bigger core so should help, if a single doesnt ill daisy chain them and run another on the other side as nothing sits on that side of the front of the car. (if i end up going with this setup)
There are still setrab, mocal and mishi rads as well for a fraction of the ER rads price.. just need some dimensions on them all to see what it works out to and see which rad is best bang for buck as they are all decent companies.
Phase 1:
DECIDE ON PHASE1 MOD'S ROUTE
Choices:
-Which dipstick model to use?
Will have a read up and measure up and see what fits well enough then get it welded to the sump.
-Oil pressure during high G's solution? - Going with Accusump - Install location to be confirmed but not in engine bay either way
NO - Baffled sump:
- Vac seem to have bad rep and reviews on quality control with endless N54 issues after install.
- None of the baffle setups seemed to of resolved the issues for hard braking on left turns this was on slicks and even cup2's, detailed thread here:
https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/addressing-n5x-oiling-and-spun-rod-bearings-accusump-installed.4034/page-16
YES - Accupump
- Electronic if I did choose this route but dont fancy it due to the size, however have seen installs in boots and other areas which wont be as bad.
NO - Dry sump
- Havent seen any setups yet anywhere to be honest not that I've checked in depth.. but this may end up being the solution.
ORDER ALL PARTS:
Pending Items:
Oil Filter Housing Gasket
Dipstick & Parts (need to pick a setup)
Oil pressure solution (CHOSEN) - Chosen to go with 3 QRT Accusum ECP 55-60PSI - Ordered
All other parts for the below items apart from fluids are ordered and should be with me in the next week or two.
Order Any Special Tools Required:
Pump to fill the DCT transmission once filters changed along with other work.
Works List:
Get New Sump & Send Off For Mods / Welding
SSP DCT Cooler Install
DCT Pressure Filter Change
DCT Internal Filter Change
DCT Sump Gasket Change
Engine CSF Radiator Install
Thermostat Gasket Change
Oil Filter Housing Gasket Change
O Rings Changed
Mosselman Thermostat Install
BMS Oil Filter Housing/Cap
Oil Pressure Sensor Install
Engine Oil Cooler - Single/Double Install
Sump Oil Pressure Solution? (Baffled Sump?) Install
Sump Dipstick Mod
Engine Sump Gasket's All Changed
DECIDE ON PHASE1 MOD'S ROUTE
Choices:
-Which dipstick model to use?
Will have a read up and measure up and see what fits well enough then get it welded to the sump.
-Oil pressure during high G's solution? - Going with Accusump - Install location to be confirmed but not in engine bay either way
NO - Baffled sump:
- Vac seem to have bad rep and reviews on quality control with endless N54 issues after install.
- None of the baffle setups seemed to of resolved the issues for hard braking on left turns this was on slicks and even cup2's, detailed thread here:
https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/addressing-n5x-oiling-and-spun-rod-bearings-accusump-installed.4034/page-16
YES - Accupump
- Electronic if I did choose this route but dont fancy it due to the size, however have seen installs in boots and other areas which wont be as bad.
NO - Dry sump
- Havent seen any setups yet anywhere to be honest not that I've checked in depth.. but this may end up being the solution.
ORDER ALL PARTS:
Pending Items:
Oil Filter Housing Gasket
Dipstick & Parts (need to pick a setup)
Oil pressure solution (CHOSEN) - Chosen to go with 3 QRT Accusum ECP 55-60PSI - Ordered
All other parts for the below items apart from fluids are ordered and should be with me in the next week or two.
Order Any Special Tools Required:
Pump to fill the DCT transmission once filters changed along with other work.
Works List:
Get New Sump & Send Off For Mods / Welding
SSP DCT Cooler Install
DCT Pressure Filter Change
DCT Internal Filter Change
DCT Sump Gasket Change
Engine CSF Radiator Install
Thermostat Gasket Change
Oil Filter Housing Gasket Change
O Rings Changed
Mosselman Thermostat Install
BMS Oil Filter Housing/Cap
Oil Pressure Sensor Install
Engine Oil Cooler - Single/Double Install
Sump Oil Pressure Solution? (Baffled Sump?) Install
Sump Dipstick Mod
Engine Sump Gasket's All Changed
Boomsticks
Member
I use liqui moly 5w40 leichtlauf high tech oil along with a setrab 26 row front mount cooler with a block off plate, csf radiator with Evans waterless coolant. I have the car serviced every 4k. My temps are fine on fast road and track even in the peak of summer.
Boomsticks said:
Nice
Heard good things about setrab and mocal coolers althought never used them myself.
How much power you running at the moment on your build as im looking to get to 700bhp hopefully on pump fuel and trying to get the cooling done from now rather than have to add again later?
Any data to show what temps you get on track with the days temp as well on a hot lap by any chance?
Have you had any oil starvation issues on track on hard braking or trail braking in to corners and specially left turns by any chance?
Also just wondering how often you go track as I'm trying to do 1-2 sessions a month on average so need it all bullet proof without the engine going poof
Asbjorn is the main to talk to about making a Z4 work on the track. He has a thread over on SpoolStreet (https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/z4-track-ready-sleeper-build.3026/)
His car is about 420whp. I think your power goals aren't compatible with your track intentions though. For 700bhp (600whp~) you will need some large twins or a single turbo. The twins would be more suitable for track work than a laggy single turbo but you're going to get some serious heat issues with that on track as you'll need to push them quite hard.
I think Asbjorn went through a lot of iterations of his cooling setup and is probably starting to get limited by his frontal area. You'd have no problems with 600whp on the street but on a track it's asking a lot.
His car is about 420whp. I think your power goals aren't compatible with your track intentions though. For 700bhp (600whp~) you will need some large twins or a single turbo. The twins would be more suitable for track work than a laggy single turbo but you're going to get some serious heat issues with that on track as you'll need to push them quite hard.
I think Asbjorn went through a lot of iterations of his cooling setup and is probably starting to get limited by his frontal area. You'd have no problems with 600whp on the street but on a track it's asking a lot.
Twins will the be the way im going as i've had a large single before and never again.
Regarding heat I will be creating custom body work in the later phases of the project to push / pull air including flat floor and tunnels to help with mechanical grip, but will only be doing that once most the engine and mechanical stuff is complete so i can place vents/ducts in hottest areas i see as i'll be logging via heat cam after track sessions to see where heat builds up and goes the most then redirect where i can away.
Ironically the thread you just posted also talks and makes mention of ducts and vents in the last few posts.
I'm not fairly set with the cooling setup i've purchased and just need the engine oil coolers im after and fairly sure it will last the 700bhp with a bit of ducting and shrouding to channel the air flow.
Proposed setup:
Ordered - DCT Oil - SSP kit (cooler, sump and pump) which should be enough and mounted behind the front kidneys
Ordered - Engine Coolant - CSF Rad
Trying to find - Oil Cooler - Considering Evolution Racewerks dual comp setup Each rad is 3.5x larger than stock so together 7x (700%) increased core
Ordered - Accusump 55-60PSI electronic pump to keep pressures where they should be during heavy braking and hard left turns
All the above will have some sort of shrouds to channel air directly do them along with grill spaces expanded to maximise air flow to them.
Yet to be designed properly and configured but ideally:
Bonnet vent to suck air out
Lower vents to pull air down from car
Ducts channelling air from bay to side of car possibly wheel arches where vents above will allow air out with trapped air in wheel wells
I'm not keen on having fans behind/in front of coolers as i havent seen them do any of my previous builds any good but that could of been how i had them setup/configured so if i run out of options can integrate something in.
Alongside that can also have water mist spray cooling setups in front of the coolers to help
Regarding heat I will be creating custom body work in the later phases of the project to push / pull air including flat floor and tunnels to help with mechanical grip, but will only be doing that once most the engine and mechanical stuff is complete so i can place vents/ducts in hottest areas i see as i'll be logging via heat cam after track sessions to see where heat builds up and goes the most then redirect where i can away.
Ironically the thread you just posted also talks and makes mention of ducts and vents in the last few posts.
I'm not fairly set with the cooling setup i've purchased and just need the engine oil coolers im after and fairly sure it will last the 700bhp with a bit of ducting and shrouding to channel the air flow.
Proposed setup:
Ordered - DCT Oil - SSP kit (cooler, sump and pump) which should be enough and mounted behind the front kidneys
Ordered - Engine Coolant - CSF Rad
Trying to find - Oil Cooler - Considering Evolution Racewerks dual comp setup Each rad is 3.5x larger than stock so together 7x (700%) increased core
Ordered - Accusump 55-60PSI electronic pump to keep pressures where they should be during heavy braking and hard left turns
All the above will have some sort of shrouds to channel air directly do them along with grill spaces expanded to maximise air flow to them.
Yet to be designed properly and configured but ideally:
Bonnet vent to suck air out
Lower vents to pull air down from car
Ducts channelling air from bay to side of car possibly wheel arches where vents above will allow air out with trapped air in wheel wells
I'm not keen on having fans behind/in front of coolers as i havent seen them do any of my previous builds any good but that could of been how i had them setup/configured so if i run out of options can integrate something in.
Alongside that can also have water mist spray cooling setups in front of the coolers to help
So waiting for my garage to come hopefully by end of Jan.
Got all the cooling setup now just waiting for a few last bits which should do the trick.
Last track day at donington in December got cancelled due to fog :/ so couldnt get any logs.
Garage comes on the 24th hopefully and next track day is on the 5th Feb.. Bit tight but may see if I can get some of the bits in there...
Will sort pics out once I find a free hosting service or way of doing it.. unless anyone has any tips or advice?
Got all the cooling setup now just waiting for a few last bits which should do the trick.
Last track day at donington in December got cancelled due to fog :/ so couldnt get any logs.
Garage comes on the 24th hopefully and next track day is on the 5th Feb.. Bit tight but may see if I can get some of the bits in there...
Will sort pics out once I find a free hosting service or way of doing it.. unless anyone has any tips or advice?