326 M Alloy Cracked

[Tbone]

Haha, thanks!

I really didn't want my first post here to be a whinge, but hey ho!
I'm loving the Z4 experience, I spent 6 months picking out the one for me, she's red, and I went for the manual.

The Mrs nearly hit the roof when she saw it, 'you said you were going out to buy a car' WTF is that? she said.
(Yes I have Kids)

Now all this happening is feeding armour piercing rounds in the 'I told you so' machine gun!

 

[mr wilks]

Haha, thanks!

I really didn't want my first post here to be a whinge, but hey ho!
I'm loving the Z4 experience, I spent 6 months picking out the one for me, she's red, and I went for the manual.

The Mrs nearly hit the roof when she saw it, 'you said you were going out to buy a car' WTF is that? she said.
(Yes I have Kids)

Now all this happening is feeding armour piercing rounds in the 'I told you so' machine gun!

You aren't the first to arrive down that path throw up a post in the Newbie section with some pics tyre / wheel problems easy solved on here

 

[Tbone]

I had a look into that Guildford website, that was posted here and they advise against welding alloys designed for run flat tyres.

 

[mr wilks]

I had a look into that Guildford website, that was posted here and they advise against welding alloys designed for run flat tyres.

In all seriousness you have a few options ,
1) if you intend keeping the 326s then find a single alloy undamaged alloy either new or secondhand , then change the tyres , now here is where you are going to get differing info & only you can decide which to follow
Myself i would drop the runflats for standard rubber & upsize the rear tyre profile to 255 35 19 , at the same time i would run them with 33-34 psi front / 34-36psi rear
2) flog the 326s & go for aftermarket wheels , many including myself have done this .
3) Have the split welded & either stay with runflats & risk it happening again or switch to standard rubber but it may still split again as the wheel is already weakened

 

[john-e89]

Now all this happening is feeding armour piercing rounds in the 'I told you so' machine gun!

I love some of the quotes on here....

I like your style Tbone, forge ahead with a purchase knowing full well what’s waiting when you return to the fold...

You’re as daft as I am..... :lol:

 

[Smartbear]

Now all this happening is feeding armour piercing rounds in the 'I told you so' machine gun!

I love some of the quotes on here....

I like your style Tbone, forge ahead with a purchase knowing full well what’s waiting when you return to the fold...

You’re as daft as I am..... :lol:

Yep, she’ll get used to it after a while- good man
Rob

 

[Tbone]

I think she secretly likes it.

just not when I do this with it though... lol
and.. no thats not her. (runs for cover as book flies at head)

Couldnt even blame the model for the cracked wheel either! as its one of the rears that gone. (and one rear on the bonnet, if you look at it that way)

 

[Wrs]

:crazydude: NICE Pic

Apologies I should have updated the thread as you are right Primo Alloys didn’t want to weld my cracked alloy.

I went for option 2 (from Mr Wilks post above) and http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=92344 regretted it. I bought a replacement rear 326M alloy and fitted Michelin Pilot Super Sports. No cracks in over 3-4K miles and regular checks.

 

[Tbone]

how much did the tyres set you back? Assuming you replaced all 4?

 

[Wrs]

£700 + fitting from memory.

 

[Tbone]

Slight update on this, I've found a Wheel refurb shop who are willing and do wheel welds.

Place is called Spit and Polish, in Tonbridge, Kent.
obviously they offer no guarantee for the work as you could leave their shop and hit a pothole at 50mph right afterwards, but the work is £69.

and yes he also said, bin the run flats. in his words... "Run flats + BMW =Disaster" "depends how much money you want to chuck down the drain"

hope this is helpful info.