3.0si what to look out for
- Thread starter mackharry
- Start date
See what work has been done and the service history along with the MOT history.
The bushes may or may not have been replaced.
Brake Discs and Pads should probably have been done.
Ask what oil has been put in it.
What Alloys are on the car? The 108 Alloys can suffer from the laquer peeling and may need refurbished.
For the tyres check that it's the make all round or at least on each axle. Set of tyres probably around £500.
If you have a code reader check what codes are there if any as this could be an indication of issues.
Has the battery been changed or is it still the original battery? That's almost a 13 year old battery if it's not been changed.
Water pump will probably fail after about 70k miles. Has it been changed?
Put the VIN number into a VIN Decoder to get the original spec of the car.
Has it had BMW or Indy servicing? Is it on a yearly or as per the car servicing? If it's via the car type servicing when was the oil last changed?
Were the plugs changed around 50k miles?
How's the roof looking? Any marks on it from beingpower washed? Wear marksfrom any rubbing on the rubbers?
How are the windows? The drivers side Window Regulator will die at some point.
Other than that read the Z4 Forum Official FAQ.... https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15177 to get an idea of known issues.
It's a low mileage car so the servicing history would be my main concern although it's easy to bring the car back to an acceptable standard.
Budget for at least and extra £1000 to get things sorted on the car.
Brakes
Tyres
Front bushes
Alignment
Service
Alloys refurbished
Brake and Clutch fluids
Gearbox Oil
And all that is before you start spending money on the bodywork lotions and potions to get it looking good again.
The bushes may or may not have been replaced.
Brake Discs and Pads should probably have been done.
Ask what oil has been put in it.
What Alloys are on the car? The 108 Alloys can suffer from the laquer peeling and may need refurbished.
For the tyres check that it's the make all round or at least on each axle. Set of tyres probably around £500.
If you have a code reader check what codes are there if any as this could be an indication of issues.
Has the battery been changed or is it still the original battery? That's almost a 13 year old battery if it's not been changed.
Water pump will probably fail after about 70k miles. Has it been changed?
Put the VIN number into a VIN Decoder to get the original spec of the car.
Has it had BMW or Indy servicing? Is it on a yearly or as per the car servicing? If it's via the car type servicing when was the oil last changed?
Were the plugs changed around 50k miles?
How's the roof looking? Any marks on it from beingpower washed? Wear marksfrom any rubbing on the rubbers?
How are the windows? The drivers side Window Regulator will die at some point.
Other than that read the Z4 Forum Official FAQ.... https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15177 to get an idea of known issues.
It's a low mileage car so the servicing history would be my main concern although it's easy to bring the car back to an acceptable standard.
Budget for at least and extra £1000 to get things sorted on the car.
Brakes
Tyres
Front bushes
Alignment
Service
Alloys refurbished
Brake and Clutch fluids
Gearbox Oil
And all that is before you start spending money on the bodywork lotions and potions to get it looking good again.
skelters said:
Thanks Skelters, pretty comprehensive list there mate. The wheels are MV2s that have been recently refurbed. The car is through a dealer so it has a warranty and he gave a half decent price for my 2.0l.
From the photos the only mod i can see is the addition of a stubby, im more of a whippy man but not a deal breaker lol.
All 4 tyres are matching with what looks like a decent bit of tread left.
A lot of the other things i can check when i view it and see what receipts there are.
Thanks for the input.
I'd also recommend getting an AA or RAC check done as you'll get a pretty much spot on valuation and a list of things that need done.
You'll also notice a huge difference in power from the 2.0 to the 3.0 si.
Reset the adaptive driving thing before the test drive along with the mpg thing so that you can see what you're getting. Anything above 25mpg and you're not driving it properly!
You'll also notice a huge difference in power from the 2.0 to the 3.0 si.
Reset the adaptive driving thing before the test drive along with the mpg thing so that you can see what you're getting. Anything above 25mpg and you're not driving it properly!
eddiemunster
Member
mackharry said:
Respectfully, I'd be a little cautious about expecting money off because a "known fault" hasn't been rectified/happened, or because an online forum says it should have been replaceed. To a lot people it's like asking for money off because the clutch will eventually go; yes, it will eventually go, but at the present moment it works perfectly fine and therefore they've had no need to replace it.
Everyone wants to haggle, but sometimes it's easy to miss out on something you really like just because you're expecting the seller to knock off £100 for something someone on a forum said you should. Just my ten penneth.....
Check the steering for the sticky steering issue, put the heaters on full hot aimed to the footwell for 5mins and then see if the steering gets notchy. This seems to be a common problem and is a pain to drive with..
I
The private seller of the car I ended up buying had warned me about the ABS issue present on mine but I didn't then expect the repair price to be knocked off his asking price. It's more about bearing in mind the additional money you'll have to spend after buying a car, especially if you buy one at the top of your budget. I agree that if you find one and fall in love that you shouldn't pass on it for the sake of a few hundred quid. It's always good to know what common issues have already arisen and been sorted and having as much history as possible might help with expectations for the future....
eddiemunster said:
The private seller of the car I ended up buying had warned me about the ABS issue present on mine but I didn't then expect the repair price to be knocked off his asking price. It's more about bearing in mind the additional money you'll have to spend after buying a car, especially if you buy one at the top of your budget. I agree that if you find one and fall in love that you shouldn't pass on it for the sake of a few hundred quid. It's always good to know what common issues have already arisen and been sorted and having as much history as possible might help with expectations for the future....
Mine has it, think it's the facelift version. Not tried the fix under the steering column yet but it's pretty bad when it happens.
Understand what you are saying, but really i was after advice about more general issues that i should be aware of that could be noted at the time of sale, not to bat the seller down based on potential future problems. If its a good car and we are both happy then im sure we can get a deal done.eddiemunster said:
Just to touch on the sticky steering, id been led to believe it was a pre facelift problem also?
Thanks all for the input, hopefully if all goes well i could be posting some new pics soon!
mackharry said:
Is it a blue one in Leeds?
mackharry said:
Thanks Monty, sounds like fun, having never driven a 3.0 si I've never experienced the sport button, does it make a great deal of difference? My wife's cooper sd has one and I've really noticed much difference, maybe it doesn't work.montymog said:without doubt the main thing to check on the 3.0 si is the sport button works mine wont switch off!! and the big smile every time you drive her